The Hobby Side - TOS Models

[Kyle]

Hey Wyrdos!

If you are poking your head in this thread, it means that you’re likely about to start priming and/or basing your models from The Other Side. But things are a little different, and you’ve got questions. Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered.

It should be noted that anything suggested here is up to your discretion and we are in no way responsible for any damage done to models based on these suggestions.

What Are These?

The Other Side models are a special blend of plastic that come pre-assembled. You will notice they have a bit more give to them than Malifaux plastic. This is 100% normal. This material allows the models to be more durable. For example, we’ve thrown some against the wall and they didn’t break (don’t do this at home, though!). Naturally, if you decide to get overly aggressive with something, it will break.

When attaching these pieces to their bases, we recommend using super glue. While you are welcome to experiment with other types of adhesives, we have found that super glue forms the best bond between the model and its base.

Primer & Paint

You may notice that The Other Side plastic pieces are a little more glossy and smooth than other plastics (like Malifaux). No need to worry! As long as you give it a quick clean and hit it with some primer first, it will hold paint with no issues. You can use any sort of model-appropriate primer and paint to spruce up your models. 

Bent Pieces or Modifying

You may notice that depending on the conditions (shipping, heat, etc.), your models may have some of the longer pieces bend a bit. If this is the case, there is a potential fix. Taking the bent piece, you can submerge it in hot water and then straighten it. Hold it there while it cools. The piece should hold whatever shape you give it. You can do this also if you wish to modify or change your models in some small way. 

Breaking It Apart

For the hardcore enthusiast interested in converting and/or painting individual parts of a model rather than the whole pre-assembled version that you received, you may want to break apart the models to be able to customize/paint your piece.

While we don’t recommend this (because there’s the potential of damaging your model), we know that it’s not going to stop some of you, so we thought we might as well give some advice! If you place the model in a freezer and leave it there for several hours, the glue will become brittle and with a bit of pressure, or help from modeling tools at the seams, you can disassemble the model. Again, please exercise safety when doing so!

If you have any other tips with painting/customizing your models, feel free to post them here!

[Aluwin]

This is fantastic, thanks for this!!!

[Da Git]

5 hours ago, Kyle said:

Primer & Paint

You may notice that The Other Side plastic pieces are a little more glossy and smooth than other plastics (like Malifaux). No need to worry! As long as you give it a quick clean and hit it with some primer first, it will hold paint with no issues. You can use any sort of model-appropriate primer and paint to spruce up your models. 

When you say give the models a clean, does this mean in soapy water? Do this for all the models?

[envyizm]

3 hours ago, Da Git said:

When you say give the models a clean, does this mean in soapy water? Do this for all the models?

Soapy water and sometimes a light brushing with a tooth brush or some other brissled object. With that said, you really should do this for all of your models before paint. A lot of times, the releasing agents they coat the molds with make it difficult for primer to take hold. This is kind of a universal principle of miniature painting, not just for the PVC plastic TOS models are made from.

[Nef]

9 hours ago, envyizm said:

Soapy water and sometimes a light brushing with a tooth brush or some other brissled object. With that said, you really should do this for all of your models before paint. A lot of times, the releasing agents they coat the molds with make it difficult for primer to take hold. This is kind of a universal principle of miniature painting, not just for the PVC plastic TOS models are made from.

This is the most accurate statement. If you don't clean there is a small chance things mess up. I didn't clean any of mine (got too excited) and just hit it with a nice white primer and didn't run into any issues. But I have with other kits before so it's a better safe then sorry sort of thing.

[Harkevich]

That was a brave post for Wyrd to do, but great advice. 

I've already decided by Abyssinian Calvary needs to be riding something bigger than mere horses. I'll have to look into the heat bending trick for thier legs. 

 

On a side note we probably need to start a converted models thread.

[HowardLovecraft]

Would it be possible to get a picture of the parts that make up the cutter dreadnought? I want to repose the arms but I can't work out how they attach.

[WitchKing03]

Has anyone had success with the freezing to weaken the glue process?

[solkan]

21 hours ago, HowardLovecraft said:

Would it be possible to get a picture of the parts that make up the cutter dreadnought? I want to repose the arms but I can't work out how they attach.

Do you want close up back and front pictures of the arms as they connect to the torso?

Edit:  Hopefully this works:  

 

[HowardLovecraft]

Thanks, what was really after is pics of a fully unassembled one.  I have taken off the front armour and pilot. But it's hard to tell what comes next. It looks like each arm is molded with half a torso.  Although after I took the photo it looks like the arms are glued at the cogs on the bottom

[WitchKing03]

17 hours ago, HowardLovecraft said:

Thanks, what was really after is pics of a fully unassembled one.  I have taken off the front armour and pilot. But it's hard to tell what comes next. It looks like each arm is molded with half a torso.  Although after I took the photo it looks like the arms are glued at the cogs on the bottom

Howd you get the glue to give?

[HowardLovecraft]

I put it in the freezer an applied force.

[solkan]

By lucky accident I had the left arm of my cutter pop out of its socket.  So can confirm the (model left) arm is glued, not molded.

 

 

[Smeagle]

Any tips for getting an Abyssinian Dreadnought not half the size of all the other Titans? 

[Adran]

1 hour ago, Smeagle said:

Any tips for getting an Abyssinian Dreadnought not half the size of all the other Titans? 

Put it in a Glass case with slightly convex glass.

Build an impressive scenic base for it.

Conversion?

 

 

 

[DeleteAccount]

On 1/8/2019 at 11:06 AM, Smeagle said:

Any tips for getting an Abyssinian Dreadnought not half the size of all the other Titans? 

The gunners are what kill the sensation of scale, if you feel brave enough, removing the kid soldiers from there would be your best bet to not make it look baby sized.

[trikk]

31 minutes ago, Razhem said:

The gunners are what kill the sensation of scale, if you feel brave enough, removing the kid soldiers from there would be your best bet to not make it look baby sized.

In Abyssinia, the military draft just starts at a very young age.

[Chou]

17 hours ago, trikk said:

In Abyssinia, the military draft just starts at a very young age.

Short people can shoot, too, and they are harder to hit, their uniforms cost less and you need to invest less in cover for them... all I see are benefits!

[Tenshi]

2 hours ago, Chou said:

Short people can shoot, too, and they are harder to hit, their uniforms cost less and you need to invest less in cover for them... all I see are benefits!

One of my new year resolutions was to paint an army with halflings.
Didn't think it'd be for ToS!

[Paneki21]

What are some suggestions on transporting TOS crews? It's quite a number of models, and I find myself having a lot of toppling issues even as I'm doing the practice games/demo games. My 1.5mm and 3mm magnets don't seem to be an option here. I'm just curious to see or hear what people are doing. 

Currently, they all sit in a tray that I carry, and that is not a good solution. Likely going to have to keep them all seperate in pluck foam and pull them out model by model, keeping the 120's aside until gametime.

[Burnin' Coal]

@Paneki21 - I'm looking at magnetic paper sheets or magnetic strip....it looks like the recess under the 30mm bases would allow it...that way I should be able to "stick" all but the largest figures in one crate, leaving just the fireteam bases and titans to pack and carry in foam...at least that's my plan so far😉

[retnab]

I use Battlefoam's bag on wheels here and it fits everything in the Cult (including Horo and Goryshche) with some doubled up Squads and the Hordes Allegiance box (Whelks and Frenzy have to stay at home though).

[TimH]

On 10/23/2018 at 7:03 PM, Kyle said:

Hey Wyrdos!

If you are poking your head in this thread, it means that you’re likely about to start priming and/or basing your models from The Other Side. But things are a little different, and you’ve got questions. Don’t worry, we’ve got you covered.

It should be noted that anything suggested here is up to your discretion and we are in no way responsible for any damage done to models based on these suggestions.

 

Hey, there. Looking for a clarifaction on all the advice given here in the initial post.

Is this advice still applicable to the contents of the other side starter set? The starter set plastic is clearly not the same sort of stuff used by wyrd in the malifaux range but at the same time it feels a fair bit harder than all of the original other side models (i'd happily bend a limb on one of the spindly limbs on a Karkinoi while painting and it would just spring back into position, I wouldn't want to be that forceful with say the claws on Ikiryo as i'd worry they might snap).

Is all of the advice given by Kyle the same or anything new we should know, thanks in advance!

[Hobby Wyrd]

Quote

On 2/19/2022 at 2:10 PM, TimH said:

Hey, there. Looking for a clarifaction on all the advice given here in the initial post.

Is this advice still applicable to the contents of the other side starter set? The starter set plastic is clearly not the same sort of stuff used by wyrd in the malifaux range but at the same time it feels a fair bit harder than all of the original other side models (i'd happily bend a limb on one of the spindly limbs on a Karkinoi while painting and it would just spring back into position, I wouldn't want to be that forceful with say the claws on Ikiryo as i'd worry they might snap).

Is all of the advice given by Kyle the same or anything new we should know, thanks in advance!

Heya! So from my personal experience with the models here in house, the advice is still the same. In fact, I found it easier to readjust and have it stay with this newer plastic. An example for me is the Gatling Gunners. I dropped it into some hot (but not boiling) water and it adjusted back to where it was all on its own.