Butch

Bonjour!

Don't paint them. If you're painting for gaming you don't need to paint them. Or you can do something like a "cross". Horizontal line with ivory vertical line with brown. And then a little dip with Agrax earthsahde or strong tone. Most times there will be an eye that's easier to paint: paint the other first. And don't expect to do everythong right the first try. Eyes are small and very quick overpainted and started again.

I like the cloak. Both, the upper anhd lower part. The swords look a liitle more like bone than gold. But that's ok. They still look very good.

Not much ideas but Penny Dreadful was an amazing Malifaux setting. I will check Frankenstein Chronicles.

It's always a goog thing to try something new. Sometimes it works, sometimes you gather experience. I think the idea with the transition is a nice one. I like to have a little drop of one maincolor in all other colors. This way everything looks tied together. Another approach can be to use one color (or a drop of it) to most highlights. With your painting I'd say you can go a lot deeper into the shadows and into the highlights. Especially in the NMM: there you should paint all the way from (near) black to white. I allways suggest the tutorials from Vince Venturella.

There isn't much to improve IMO. For Tabletop miniatures I would add more highlights. And the shoulder bag needs some more shadows, highlights an weathering.

I hope so too! Awesome painted fur.

I don't know, if this could apply to your game. But for me it was a massive improvement in my gaming in general when I learned to ignore models. I always try to play stictly to the mission. In the past I too often tried to get rid of the dangerous models and did not score enough points. Now I maybe still loose (I'm not a very expierenced player), but sometimes manage to win. And if not, I feel very much in control.

That's a nice and unusual idea for a board.

Yeah! I like the colors on the Seamus crew. And in generell, how you have the models of a crew painted in a similar pattern.

I've not yet experimented with water effects. But I would start with these two tutorials. A friend of me recommends Vallejo Water Effect, but only for bases. Tutorial from Josua of Massive Voodoo. Tutorial from Vince Venturella for water bases

Thank you all!

\sign I would so much like to order the stat cards somewhere in europe.

Scale 75 has a "Pink Flesh" wich is quite pink.

/sign

I so much want this one for a godzilla diorama!

There are magnets wich fit perfectly under the bases. These add weight and you con use them for transport too. You should find those in the usual online tabletop shops.

Awesome! Maybe you should send some examples to Kenny Boucher (NexLevel Painting), and/or some other YT painters for some how videos on how to quickpaint these buildings. Painting terrain for me takes always too much time, and they just add to the pile of shame. So in the last time I more often than not did not buy new terrain pieces. Seeing how you you can do a quick but still beatiful paintjob could help selling these buildings. At least for me.

Did the discussion about luring an model from a climable hight end? i.e. Climbing vs. falling (to death).

The drowned is a spirit because some substances of its body got fermented while under water.

Horror: undead with some kind of body Spirit: undead without some kind of body Most of all it is just a definition: if it says "horror" on the card it is a horror model.

Funny, looks like my cat.

Superb painted structure on the shirt!

The puns are so great! Wyrd will have to continue with the previews for ever!

If you're painting b/w, painting structure gets more important. This means spending more painting in how the materials reflect light etc. I would not only youse blck and white and greys, but one tint of another color. Maybe sepia. A very quick way to have a b/w crew would be to basecoat the miniatures with rattlecans. Black, grey from 45° and white from above. maybe you can skip the grey. This creates a nice zenithal lightning. Framo there you can work with glazes. (The issue with the structures is ignored).