Jump to content

Tips and Tricks M2E Wave 1 Starter Sets


edonil

Recommended Posts

So, I've been working on assembling my Lady Justice and Rasputina sets tonight. Also built a Void Wretch, but that box I don't have a lot of experience with yet. First off, I love the new plastics. Even with the stipulations I'm about to list, I've found them much easier to work with than metal models, no matter the company. They are wonderful kits, with beautiful detail. That being said, I've noticed some things that I felt people should know before jumping into building this stuff. And, because I'm on a Cracked kick, it's going to be in the form of a list. Sorry for the lack of photos, too much stuff is built at this point.

1. Everything is keyed. Now, for people who don't know the term, keying is a technique that means every kit will build the same way every time. In a lot of ways, it's awesome. Personally, I love things being keyed, makes life easier. For those of you who like converting, don't worry, the keys tend to be pretty easy to get rid of. But, the previous sentence also highlights a problem- since everything is keyed, if you break the key, it can make assembly tricky. A good example of this is The Judge. His head has a key to connect it to the body, which creates a consistent angle. If you have the key, the model will be looking the same direction everytime. But, since that particular key looks like a bit of sprue, it's easy to decide that you need to cut it off at that point...which means that you get to guess how to glue his head on there.

Another issue with things being keyed is order of operations. Rasputina is a really easy piece to put together. Torso, two legs, two arms and a head. All of it is keyed, so there's really no way aside from converting to not end up with what's on the box. What's not immediately evident though, is that you're supposed to glue the two legs (which are keyed) to each other before gluing that mini-assembly to the torso. Luckily, I just barely managed to dodge that bullet, so I didn't have to deal with the frustration of messing that up and ripping the leg out to get it fixed. Still, just pay attention to those kinds of things. Dry-fit as much as you can before gluing, and pay attention to your keys.

2. Proportions are accurate. Now, I'm sure this seems kinda odd on a list of tricks for assembly, but it does need to be said. I love the fact that Wyrd got the proportions right on all these guys. They look real, they look great next to each other...but there's a catch. The catch is that correct proportions make for some interesting areas for gluing. Oh, and in point #1, I lied. Sorry all, but I forgot about the little Gamin. So, if you haven't seen the new Ice Gamin, there's a couple things you need to know. First off, they are awesome. Second, is they are tiny. Just about half an inch tall. And their arms are proportionate to that height...so that means that when you're gluing the arms to their shoulders, you've got a space that's less than an eighth of an inch (approximately. No, I didn't measure it). And since they aren't keyed, that means you have an incredibly tiny spot to put on a dab of glue, and they will want to shift around a lot, getting glue all over your fingers. Not any real advice on this one, other than possibly tweezers. And a lot of patience.

3. Order of Operations. I mentioned this early, but it needs to be said again. While you're building the model, be thinking about the next steps in the process. This isn't really related to keying, but it is about painting. So, Lady J's sword is two parts, the blade, which is separate, and the hilt, attached to her two arms which are keyed. (they won't look like they're keyed, but they are, trust me.) At first, I thought this was crazy...until I realized that her blade, when built correctly, blocks her face. So, my advice is to not glue the blade onto the sword until after you've gotten her painted. Not that it makes me any more happy about having to pin something that thin...but coming from the perspective of wanting to paint her right, I think it's some kind of genius.

4. Clean the mold lines! I don't know if there's any more repeated bit of advice with assembling a model, but with the way Wyrd has made these models, it isn't advice. Seriously, if you neglect this, you're going to have gaps you wouldn't believe. Just have an x-acto and a file on hand and constantly dry-fit the pieces before gluing. The nice thing about keys is that if it doesn't fit right the first time, you can file down the male half of the key (insert gutter joke here... :-P) to get a better fit with a smaller gap. Just be careful, or you might end up reducing it so it's no longer keyed.

Alright, that's all my tips and tricks. I managed to work any specific instances into the above, but if anyone is building a different kit than what I'm tackling, please add it below. If you've got any questions, feel free to ask. I'll try to get some pictures into the thread at some point if I can.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not that I like Warhammer much, but perhaps Wyrd could take a page from GW's books on how to tackle plastic model design. They seem to have nailed the dynamic poses with great detail, and yet still go together very easily. All the tiny extra bits that look great in the 3d models don't always translate so well to the physical product.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So far I have put together Miss Step, The Hired Swords box, The University of Transmortis box, and the Shadows of Redchapel box.

Out of all of them, my only complaint is that chest of Madame Sybelle REALLY shouldn't have been a separate piece. It is a nightmare to get seated correctly without any gaps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Remember, plastic cement, not super glue - you'll be happy.

This:+fate

Plastic cement is your best friend with the new wyrd plastic as its specifically formulated to be usable with it. Word of caution less is more as it actually chemically bonds the two so too much and you could have a small burning issue as your model melts more than you'd like at the point of contact but the seals are amazingly strong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, chiming in on a point- even with how finicky the Ice Gamin were, they were nowhere near the Ten Thunders Archers or Yan Lo's beard.

Yan Lo's beard didn't actually give me too much trouble.. now those archers... that was a whole new kind of headache. haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I put together the Seamus box, and while the sheer number of pieces was a little annoying, there wasn't anything on par with Yan Lo's beard in the box.

What I did to address the small parts issue was to buy a couple of 9x12 cake pans from the dollar store. I always cut and assemble on a workbench over the pans, just in case I drop something. Presumably the pan will catch it before the carpet eats it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information