Brightmore

Personally, I have no problem with a person looking around after a tournament has begun. Malifaux unique crew construction system really negates the value of this. If I bust out my Rezzers, they are just going to see a giant bag of Rezzers, which they would know when I declared my crew. Looking in someones bag to determine their model selection is a bit shady, not because they are looking at the models, but they are peeking in their bag which is not okay basically any time. I do run into problems with my normal opponents occasionally giving away information during the crew build process, where they will place a card where I can see it, or a model on the board. This I can see as an issue, I think the Tournament Policy could give us some guidance to how to do this piece, it might be helpful.

I just recently taught my Roommate how to play. My first suggestion is to play Only Turf War, and to play without Upgrades with nothing but a starter box(make sure the points are close), and focus your demo on slugging it out, and doing cool stuff. Try to stay away from the technically complicated stuff, and more on bashing. I slowly put in all pieces of the game was we were practicing and she has a much firmer handle on the game, simply because she could focus on learning one part of the game at a time.

The vast majority of my cards are perfectly find to dry erase and whip off, and haven't stained yet. Except Killjoy. There are a batch of cards that have a matte finish, that are glossy, and are textured instead of smooth, and you can't use dry erase on them. They also very flimsy.

Is this a good format for someone who has never played Vassal to play?

I am fine with Combo boxes as long as the boxes don't break about 30-40 bucks. Right now I am a bit stuck on fact, I gotta drop a 50 spot, to buy the new Sebelle model, when I am not really interested too much in the rest of the box. But the Nephalim pack was in my opinion very well done.

After playing Molly for the first time, I will fully agree that the combo is strong. Though some if it comes down to what your opponent was playing. Black Blood off the start is very beatable, just use your melee reach from your melee specialists and fight from outside it's range. Necrotic Preperation makes it hard for Minions to hang against the Valedictorian, but to be fair considering the points cost, nothing but a dedicated beater is going to actually have a good shot at breaking the Valedictorian. How to cope really depends on the crew, and faction. There are generally only three ways to deal with a big nasty model like that. 1) Bring your own big nasty model, the Valedictorian is amazing, but so are Peace Keepers, Hooded Rider, Hank, Killjoy et all. Even if your beater doesn't one round the Valedictorian, you are likely to either strip all of their stones, or have the Valedictorian hurt enough that you can kill it later, or force them into some inefficient healing play to try to restart the power of the Valedictorian. 2) Control him. Being largely a melee threat being able to manipulate the Valedictorians position, and APs can be incredibly punishing. Have your Cherub shoot him push him and slow him, Paralyze him with your own nurse. Stack Fees up on him from your guild lawyer, lure him to a bad spot with your beckoners. Hit him with mood swing, and have Candy Paralyze him, etc 3) Combo him. This is much more master specific so isn't always available. Stick a McGabe power minion missile to him. Stick a fully buffed Victoria of Blood to him. Use Guild MCM to give your shooting unites precise, and apply damage through all but terrifying early so when you get stuck in. Have Nicodem hit him with Rigor Mortis every turn, so 1 hp means he gets to do very little very turn. It can be tricky, but well within the realm of doable. Also as far as Resser masters go, Molly isn't that tough. Masterful Dead is very resource intensive to do, in a Faction that is already resource intensive. You generally only get to convert 1 hit a turn into 1 damage maybe. Damage can stack up on her very quickly, and without an innate healing mechanic, and rules that demand her to be forward, it can get dicey.

Some of that has to do with the painting style, lots of crisp bold colors, I suspect you can dial back the cartoony, by going with a darker color pallet, and using washes and glazes to make the buildings look dirty. How clean the buildings are is a bit weird, I can't imagine any place in Malifaux except the most wealthy of places being that clean, when I get them and paint them I think I am going to try to make an effort to make the buildings have a bit more grit.

Something else I would like to point out, that is great for Mindless Zombies, is they allow you to move corpse markers, such that your summon is in a better spot, this is particularly good with Love they master. One of the Strats, i have used is having Mortimer dig up a corpse marker, then have a guild autopsy leak fluids on it to make it a zombie, then have that zombie activate in Nicodem's Death's Whip aura, walk to the perfect spot to fire a Punk Zombie missile, then later in the turn activate Nicodem, summoning the zombie, and have it go to town. The best part is, it doesn't matter if your opponent kills the Zombie during that turn, it drops a corpse marker right in the spot where you want it. You can do this with Maniacal Laughter, but it takes a turn longer, but is also very sweet.

From my experiance you don't bother healing him. His Regen +1 means you can corpse bloat him 4 times in a game, which is more then enough gas to get you there. Since he also trys to dig up a bone every turn, He also never moves from where you deploy him. If he gets dropped on turn 5, he is just more gas for the engine at that point.

This is the truth. We get complaints about this and start boxes. Want a Steam Trunk buy a whole box to get them. Right now I have this problem with the Malifaux cherub, At some point I lost the arm on mine, I really like the model, but I don't want to buy a second lilith box. Edit: Also PP Starts are terrible value. Not terrible value from models to dollars,(for the most part the boxes score you one free model), but a terrible value at least one, if no more models in the starter are not very good in the game. Every starter by and large comes with at least one paperweight model, frequently multiples, which means the value from the starter is lost.

I suspect, that she got tangled up in the production problems that, got the The Kin, and the Bayou Boss boxes delayed for for 3 months. I feel like there was a apart of early 2014 that just didn't work out the way that Wyrd was hoping on the production end, Things seem to be largely shaping up, though the pushback of the Mindless Zombies is kind of a drag. I do think they might have taken some of the metals out of production too soon. I have been having the worst time trying to pick up some Dead Doxies, and a couple other metal minis because I am not inclined to wait for the plastic releases.

To fair, your bringing up their first round of plastic models, and arguably the worst(not looking, just some of the trickiest to put together, and most flimsy). Most of the modern plastic kits i have bought have not hat this problem at all, and I have bought. Grave Robbers(Which the Swords the Punks are a little shady, but I have not had any problems with them during game play, and transport yet, still a vast improvement). Body of Evidence(Chihuahua is sketcy, but I lost the paw for mine when I dropped it, so I just tossed it and used my old metal one). Mother of Monsters(Frankly a great kit in all respects), No Shelter Here(Again just a sweet set), Swamp Fiends(I think that is the name of Zoriada's crew, also totally sweet, other then a piece of Juju's vines breaking on the sprue) I travel, and use these models pretty regularly and have not had any problems, I have way more problems with the old metals, and some problems with the T10 era plastics. As for on topic about price. I don't find anything wrong with Malifaux pricing. Considering the high quality of the models(even if they are tricky to build), and the number of them you need to play. I do not feel that buying the models aren't a value. Think about this, buying a crew box in Malifaux is actually buying a crew that allows you to play the game at very close to full speed right off the get go. Compare this to basically any other mini-game where the starter box is basically the game with training wheels, and a bad value(Battle groups in Warmachine), or is actually a variety of the game, because you can't actually play the game(Dark Vengeance). So they are very good values. I mean if you think about it 500$, goes a lot farther in Malifaux, then in Warmachine or 40k. I mean in Malifaux 500 dollars gets me all of wave one Ressers(with a grip of money to spare), and a huge chunk of wave 2, my napkin math being you likely get something like 75% of the Resser models currently with rules? Vs. Warmachine where 500 dollars gets me 3 army builds, and maybe 40% of a faction, and for 40k 500 dollars gets me somewhere between 50%-70% of a playable force. Malifaux costs in the same realm to be fair, but the value of each individual purchase in the game is way higher. edit: Also Metal Minis are not 12-15 bucks, most models with those prices are legacy priced Warmachine miniatures. Privateer doesn't consistently raise their prices on models to adjust for inflation or rising materials costs, so some models have frankly insane price points, because those price points were established I want to say 6 years ago after their last price redressing.

This is pretty fair, I generally like playing a Control Build, with Sinister Rep, using Nurses and Belles to lock down pieces so that my enforcer, can punish them(Sebelle with Bleeder Lash is sweet for this), on occasion though I have found without the bag Seamus doesn't actually do much if your opponent has a way to keep him off the flintlock. Getting engaged by a model that doesn't instantly die to the gun, can be real trouble sometimes, particularly if your nurses have already activated, or have been killed. I like Bag Seamus in situations where I need a distraction for my opponent to keep them from interfering with my schemes and my master is not an integral part of my game plan. I like it in Turf War( though I don't think Seamus is the best for Turf War, Nicodem is imho King of Turf War), since Seamus can sit in the Turf Area, threaten things with his gun, particularly the ability to one shot minions can make it hard on your opponent to score, if anything tougher gets in the zone, bagging repeatedly with the crow trigger will deplete your opponents hand, or just instantly kill the model, which can be back breaking. Specifically, I think I would consider playing Bag Seamus, in a Turf War pool, that includes assassinate + some other harder to do schemes. It takes a great deal to kill Seamus, generally making killing him before Assassination gives you less points pretty hard, or killing him at all, and if the other schemes are hard to do, I can restrict their scheme pool.

I agree with Fetid. The thing about Seamus I feel is there is two ways to play him. Sinister Rep, and Bag o'tools. Both builds really like belles, Sinister Rep because it allows you to heal off of nearly unbeatable lures, and Undress can totally lock down a crew being effectively CA 7. In this crew I also like running Nurses, because they are also nearly unbeatable with the buff. Sybelle fits right in because she can captalize with shriek, and Attend to me Personally, can not only heal, but protect Seamus. Bag Seamus also like Belles, because it allows his crew to position enemy models so he can kill them, and to get him free from combat so he can fight higher priority targets. Sybelle again also is good with this, because of Not to Banged up, and Attend.

Nurses can be hired, by Guild(MCM), Ressers, Neverborn(Zorida), and Outcasts(Jack Daw) I believe.

I would say a couple MM, I suspect they would still fit in a sleeve by my Zoriada and my Voodoo are bigger, I ordered online as well Arli.

My reading of power loop was the opposite, You take the stat remove it's suits, and just use the number suitless(losing your normal suit). I believe it should be FAQed.

There are many situations where this is not the right way to resolve lure at all. A lured model will pick the optimal route to end as close as possible to the lurer, this means it will double back to walk around a model to end closer, rather then walk through terrain that will make it end farther away. Lure can be a tricky rule in certain situations, where as close as possible could be too very different outcomes, so far in my games I haven't had too much trouble, though as an EO, I could see it getting sticky. Personally, I wouldn't mind clarification, but the rules as written, it is very clear that you can move a person behind you satisfying all the criterion of the ability. Specifically, if they really wanted it to work the way that some people suggest, they likely would have added language to make it work that way, i.e. put in a phrase that says, "The model must spend the least amount of movement to do this". The rest of the rules are written so well, I doubt this interaction was an unintended mistake.

If you want it you should get it, all of the negative things are minor. I don't get the color contrast comments, the colors on my fate deck are vivid and stand out way more then on my Retro-deck, and Puppet deck. The suit placement issue can be solved by simply actually looking through your cards. My background is MTG/UFS and not Poker, so I flip through my cards frequently so I suspect maybe that is why it isn't a problem, at worst it's an annoying problem, not a deal breaker(unless you have a desperate need to only hold your cards in a tight fan) The slick part, is just a thing, all of the plastic decks I have bought from Wyrd ever have been slick as hell, when the cards get dirty from use it goes away. My first 5 games with my retro deck, I would accidentally puke the deck all over the place at least once a game, It is the same with this one. I had the same problem with the puppet deck. I personally don't see any of them as a big deal(other then the cards having a top and bottom, but that is personal taste thing). I mean it isn't like the puppet deck which has a defect in it, which causes the ink to come off during use(so your deck ends up having white spots all over the art).

I am a little surprised people are talking about how they are hard to read. I have 3 fate decks, Retro, Puppet, and Arcane(I also have paper fate decks, but the plastic ones are so much nicer), and I actually swapped the Retro deck, with my Roommate who I am teaching how to play because the Arcane Deck was so much easier to read. The bold color in the center makes the suit really easy to see, and the numbers make what you flip really clear. My only problem with them is I wish they didn't have an up and a down, the only time I have a hard time with a card is when I flip them upside down. What I would really love no lie, is a plastic copy of the original paper fate decks.

Yeah, barring some very strange situations, If your not base to base with the luring model you will always move to lure. A neat trick with Lure, is if the model will make to base to base with you from the lure, you can lure them to any part of your base that they can reach with the movement and still satisfy the lure as close as possible condition. i.e. if you have a guy in 1" in front of you, and you lure them and they have a walk of 5" you can have them walk around behind you, and touch your base there, and be a legal lure. It comes in handy when your trying to get a model farther away from something but your really close to them.

Is the person an experienced Mini-gamer or are they new? Have the read the rules, or are they going in dry?, Are they very competitive player? These are questions you need to know the answer to to craft the perfect demo experience. The two things a successful demo needs, is 1) to make the person your demoing the game for feel successful and empowered, and 2) to avoid information overload. Malifaux is a really complex game with a great level of tactical depth, and strategic decision making. Unfortunately this means there is a ton of information to know and understand in a basic Malifaux game, which means calibrating the demo experiance can be tricky, and needs to be focused on the excitement and experience level of the player. The first step to prevent information overload is to understand how much the player knows, about the game. First: Is the person an experienced Wargamer? If they are not, that means you likely should cut everything down the barest of minimums. Many concepts will be new to this fresh recruit and they will have to process how to do fundamental things we take for granted.(Like how to measure a movement, how to move models, the fundamental nature of determining to hit, and how damage might work.). In this situation I would likely shrink the crews to about 20-25 points, and not play with upgrades, use one strategy, and one scheme, so that they can get a flavor of the game while keeping it simple enough that they can focus their mind on the fundamentals of game play to them which are new. The primary goal is to allow them to fight over the scheme, but keep the number of things going on down to a minimum so that they don't have to remember to many things, or specifically be reminded of too many things. A terrible demo has you constantly breaking the action to remind the person of a particular rule, because who likes to have someone consistently stop what they are doing and tell them they are either A) doing it wrong, or need to remember this other thing. If they are, I would likely play with the same 25 stone crews, but I would play with the full suite of schemes and strategies, since this player should be familiar with the idea of scenarios, and shouldn't take more then a couple explanations about how combat works to become fluent with them. The focus in this game should be about scenarios, and the asymmetry of them, because that is the big sell for Malifaux as a miniatures game. Second: Have the read the rules? If no see above, If yes, you have a great more flexibility to run your demo. In this situation I would try to ascertain their fluency with what they read. I would still likely play with set small crews, but depending on their comfort level play Upgrades, or a full game. The big focus is keeping the game simple, Crew Selection is pretty complex, particularly with upgrades factored in and frankly I would avoid that till a player is fully fluent with the game. Remember the focus is on the fun part of the game, and most people don't want to go through class learning how to play a very complex game like Malifaux, so chopping up their learning experience into bite sized chunks is generally way better. Also be honest about it, tell them the game is super complex, so we are going to pair it down a bit so that it is easier to just get started with. Also, and I know this is controversial. Always lose the demo, don't make it an obvious throw, play with some recklessness or do be aggressive about schemes(and absolutely do no interfere with their schemes, other then maybe the strategy), losing the demo regardless of what people say, almost always leaves a bad taste in the players mouth. It is a tiny minority of players that can eat a loss in the demo, particularly a bad one and come back for more. In your particular situation, I would likely cut Hank, and the Full Swarm(but allow the player to swarm his spiders if he wants), that keeps the points low. Unless the person has already fully bought in, and is 100% going to play, I would shy away from playing that many stones, each model has a ton of rules fewer models means fewer things to have to remember in any particular game. Whew, I apologize for the long post, it seems I had a lot to say about it.

Anyone else notice that the cards in her box are larger then the cards from the arsenal wave 1 deck?

My Hannah had a left arm, did you look on the sprue where the part would be(see if there is breakage at the joint?)

I got mine no problem Loveless