Vermicious Knid

I loath the use of magnets with miniatures, and because of this I am going to glue my Steam Arachnids to their bases. I am trying to figure out the best ratio of individual spiders to swarms I have 15 Arachnid models. How many swarms and how many single spiders should I make?

Well that was a great dissertation on the bonuses and negatives of the different mediums. Unfortunately this particular statement that I quoted happens to be wrong. Or at least mostly so. With Malifaux, most players have a pretty mercenary attitude when it comes to what models they game with and enjoy. Players will collect models that they are either more comfortable working with (be that metal or plastic), or they will collect the models that they think look the best. In the case of Malifaux, there are clear differences in both the technical quality and artistic style between the two materials. The metal models simply look different. There is a difference in quality, as the original metal Wyrd models are sculpted in a slightly more amateurish fashion. There is a difference in looks, as the plastic models have a far more consistent artistic style. This is all my opinion of course, but I feel pretty confident and strongly about my assertions. So I'll say this definitively - I will ALWAYS collect the plastic models, and will avoid purchasing any Wyrd metal models unless the reasons are truly compelling. 100 percent of Wyrd's plastic resculpted model have been at least a minor (and plenty of times, major) improvement in looks upon the original metals (IMO) and I see no evidence that this trend will be altered in the future. And so for that reason, I will always go for the plastic versions and I don't particularly regard my reasons as being "rubbish"

I don't use a rotary hole punch for rivets - they are far too large. The hole punch I got was more traditional looking - it just punches a really tiny hole. Found it in the scrapbooking aisles. To be honest, I don't know how thin of card I use. It's not the thinnest available - more like the 2nd or 3rd thinnest

Before I write on what I quoted you on, I would first like to say that I find the concept of taking substandard models on trips, just because you are afraid of your "good" ones get damaged is not really a valid concern, unless we are talking truly prize winning stuff here. If damage is truly a problem, then I would suggest that you might not be packing your models correctly? Now, as far as your quote goes. I find it strange that you used the Peacekeeper of all models to illustrate your point. To answer your questions - yes I absolutely believe that a 30+ piece plastic peacekeeper will be a better model than the metal one, and yes I believe that it will look better as well. --Large models are always better done in plastic, just from a weight consideration --Robots or anything that's composed mostly of mechanical looking parts are probably the single best types of models to be cast from plastic. The sharp edges and mechanical joints are far more effectively created with a digital CAD program and are best realized in plastic --The original metal Peacekeeper is probably the single worst looking construct that Wyrd has created. No offense to the original artist - the model was made in Wyrd's early days and they were basically making do with the resources they had, but the model shows it's age drastically. It's overall appearance is quite goofy looking, and the sculptor did a really poor job of hiding the bits and materials he used to create the master. When I can look at a model, and instantly know what size of brass rods he used to create the Peacekeeper's spindly arms...this is a piece that is not held to the same level of professionalism that the modern models are. --The new plastic constructs in the Hoffman box are massive improvements of the original metals - despite their overall "look" being basically the same. There is every reason to suspect that the Peacekeeper will be improved in the same degree. So anyhow like I said - I get that you weren't trying to start up a big discussion about the Peacekeeper specifically. I just think that using it as your reference here kind of undermines the point you are trying to make, since the new plastic will be such an obviously superior model that it's easily worth the wait

Don't forget Von Schill!

Yep, just cut-out squares of plasticard, with plasticard rivets that I made with a tiny craft-store hole punch

I added an appropriate amount of paint. I am not the only person to raise this complaint about Zuzzy stuff. It doesn't happen to EVERYBODY, but I've done some research and it DOES happen sometimes.

They could be Tormented, considering that Papa Loco is also an insane person and bears the same trait.

I'm not a fan of zuzzy actually - you have to paint it yourself (not a problem) and if you store it rolled up, the paint can have a tendency to crack when the mat flexes (big problem)

So I thought I would go ahead and keep a log of my fully painted Malifaux stuff. Unfortunately that doesn't comprize very many models at this point, but I do paint fairly prolifically , so I'm expecting to add to it fairly soon! The original models are fairly fitting, however - the Governor's Secretary himself!

The metal figures are pretty silly and fairly unprofessional looking, from a technical pov. The new plastics are easily superior in almost all cases IMO.

Exactly what Lucius said- that puppet crew that was posted looks great, but it's far more likely to cause in-game confusion than most proxies/conversions that people use

Which is amusing since it really goes against the spirit and intent of the conversion/proxy rules. Ah the hypocrisy of the tournament scene...

The sound track to the Robert Downey Jr version of Sherlock Holmes basically IS Malifaux for me. Just evokes the very essence of all the city locations, imo

The cork board that I always use is a "chunkier" variety. By that, I mean that they don't chop up the cork board into tiny finely-ground little bits, but instead make the board out of larger pieces. I find that this stuff is the best, since when you break it up, the larger cork chunks resemble rocks a lot more. You can find this particular style of cork board in craft stores (Michael's, AC Moore, Hobby Lobby, stuff like that). Usually it's a very dark color - like almost black. It's also slightly more expensive than the "basic" cork board, but it's well worth it if you are looking for good visuals