daemonkin Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 We found a Willie last week like that *Giggles* Your willie smells D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldManMyke Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 If you get one that is soft on details or 'smells' very heavy of chemicals, odds are you got one that just got some extra funk and didn't finish up properly. We found a Willie last week like that and he was all shiny and had a peculiar odor to him, where as the rest of the sets where matte finished and high in detail. We've taught the warehouse what to look out for now that we ourselves know about it. Thanks for letting us know Nathan, what should we do if we do have a soft frame, just the normal complaint procedure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nix Posted September 2, 2012 Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 @OldManMyke you asked a couple posts back for some picks of my Mandible-Lady Illuminated. Here she is: This is post assembly and priming, with plastic glue. I have not painted her up yet, but did paint up my beckoners who came out pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genetic Posted September 2, 2012 Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 Has anyone had any experience with Guerrilla glue and the new plastics? or should i go out and buy some actual plastics glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty Posted September 2, 2012 Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 Has anyone had any experience with Guerrilla glue and the new plastics? or should i go out and buy some actual plastics glue? I believe Guerilla glue is what they were using at the Office.. However from Nix' (I believe) comments he felt that plastic glue makes your life much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Genetic Posted September 2, 2012 Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 thanks Ratty. I normally use the guerrilla glue for my minis, especially my warmachine stuff. just wasn't sure how it would work with the legos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Caroland Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 Thanks for letting us know Nathan, what should we do if we do have a soft frame, just the normal complaint procedure? Yes by all means, if you get a bad miniature, let us know. Be prepared to show some pictures or possibly get a 'send it to us' sticker along with a new one so that we can track down everything with these. New operation, we're going to want to make certain we learn as much as we can so that these are caught before they go out the door, or the reason for them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djkickz Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 This is post assembly and priming, with plastic glue. Hey nix what brand of plastic glue did you use with the new models? (assuming it worked well) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz the cat Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 Having got a few of the new plastics, I have mixed opinions on them. They're not bad by any stretch, but they're not fantastic either. I definately wouldnt consider it an improvement over the pewter, but kind of a sidestep. On larger models I love it becaise it cuts down weight and fragility on my side, and for the company I can only imagine it must cut out huge swathes of cost for them in production and shipping. However on smaller models (like the metal gamin) I wish they would have been done in metal, as they're waifish and whispy as is. Im afraid they'll snap or break with a stiff breeze. thats my 2c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ispep Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 Hey nix what brand of plastic glue did you use with the new models? (assuming it worked well) I'm not Nix, but I've been using Model Master Liquid Cement for Plastic Models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G. Footman Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 one question I had with the plastics and priming. are they ok with spray, or is it the type of plastic that melts when hit with an aerosole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz the cat Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 one question I had with the plastics and priming. are they ok with spray, or is it the type of plastic that melts when hit with an aerosole? I used armory primer and had no problems, I think any hobby primers shouldnt be any issue, If youre using something you bought from a home depot... I'd test it on a piece of sprue first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shadowopal Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 I ackquired the following at Gen Con: Miss Terious Santana Hanging Tree Dark Debts Depleted Beckoners Mr Graves Mr Tanen Rail Golem I've assembled them all. They clean up nicely. They come away from the sprue nicely with the exception of Mr. Eric on the Hanging Trees. I assembled about 10 copies for the Story Encounter Tourney as well as my own. The rope that Eric is hanging from is simply too fine and too long. The person who split up the model should have made Eric and his rope a separate piece and put a mounting hole in the knot the rope hangs for the tree from. But, Oh well. One out of five Eric models that I assembled had the rope broken on the sprue which is a shame. After borrowing Eric's Tamiya thin plastic cement to glue the trees for the tourney together, I went out and bought a bottle of my own. I cannot say enough about this glue. LOVE it for plastics. Typically, I would end up with a ton of glue callouses. but, the brush applicator allowed me to put the cement exactly where I needed it and it bonded VERY quickly. I do wish that they had included assembly instructions or had them online. I am impatient and didn't really think about assembly as most of the figs were pretty self explanatory. But, I made the mistake of not playing with the hungering darkness first and glued his body halves together without the Maw piece. Needless to say, a little self abasement was had. Not their fault. But, a warning to others. Anyway, I took an extra tentacle arm from one of the Illuminated and gave the Hungering Darkness a tongue to cover up my impatience. The bonds so far are excellent. I haven't primed or painted yet. But, I foresee no troubles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nix Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Hey nix what brand of plastic glue did you use with the new models? (assuming it worked well) I have been using Testors Model Master Luquid cement. This was recomended to me by the owner of my local store (Huzzah Hobbies) and has worked great. The pin applicator lets me put the glue where it needs to be with a great deal of control. The glue itself works great to weld together the plastic pieces. http://www.testors.com/product/136942/8872C/_/Liquid_Cement_For_Plastic ---------- Post added at 09:00 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:58 AM ---------- one question I had with the plastics and priming. are they ok with spray, or is it the type of plastic that melts when hit with an aerosole? I spray prime all my models and have not had any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach_5 Posted September 16, 2012 Report Share Posted September 16, 2012 (edited) Got my hands on my new Rail Crew and the other arcanist goodies yesterday and had a chance to put a few together. One thing I have noticed is that aside from models being lettered on the sprues (ie, each piece labelled "A" is for model "A") each piece is also numbered (A1, A2, A3, etc). I put Mei Feng together before really paying attention to that, but for both Kang and one of the Rail Workers it seemed that the numbers suggest the order of assembly (A1, B1, C1, etc are all the main bodies of the miniatures, while part 2 might be and arm, part 3 might be a weapon attached to both arms, etc). Additionally, optional items are numbered as well (Kang's hammer and shovel are labelled "B5-1 and B5-2"), so you know that both are attached to the same spot and you have a choice of one or the other. Based on other comments people made that it was sometimes difficult to tell where the sprue stopped and the small connections of the pieces started I clipped off parts which were obviously part of the sprue and not the miniatures along with each piece. Only once I had the two pieces in hand and could compare where they were supposed to fit together did I carefully trim off the extraneous sprue pieces. More thoughts to come as I make my way through the rest of the models... EDIT: Looking at the metal gamin, rail golem, and willie sprues, the lettering/numbering system is not used at all, so it looks like that is only applicable for crew boxes where there are a number of different models on a single sprue. The metal gamin are on a single sprue but the sprue is divided up into 3 sections with each gamin's parts contained within one area, while the rail crew sprue has parts for each model scattered all over. Edited September 16, 2012 by Mach_5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mach_5 Posted September 17, 2012 Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 (edited) Here's my assembled Rail Crew. Altogether, I'm pretty happy with how they went together, and gaps were minimal with careful assembly. It is curious the bases still have slots in them... perhaps Wyrd is clearing out old stock before replacing them with slot-less? Kang was an early assembly and I learned a bit in the process. I've highlighted a few of the joints in the photo. They weren't bad (I won't bother filling with green stuff) but could have been better. The main culprit is the peg/slot connections which are extremely snug. In most cases you can attach a piece without any glue and it will still hold very well. The problem comes when you put glue in there (I am using plastics glue from Army Painter) there is really no tolerance for the glue and the joints can sometimes open up in spots. Since finishing Kang I have begun to trim down the corners of pegs slightly. The Emberling's connection to his base is shown below. In order to ensure a snug connection, the sides of the peg were left intact, but I shaved a little bit of plastic off of each edge and corner. Similarly shaving down edges and corners in other models have helped keep the joint gaps to a minimum. The proper amount of plastics glue helps too (not too much that it overflows and runs everywhere, but enough that it fills the joint to the edges. I've also found it handy to keep a wooden chopstick with a fine tip handy for pressiing some pieces into their slots (ie Kangs head/chest) as you can put a lot more pressure on a small point than using a finger and you stand less risk of smearing any excess glue all over the model. Edited September 17, 2012 by Mach_5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tombanjo Posted September 17, 2012 Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 Thanks for the info, it will be most helpful. In regard to sanding the fitting pegs, I saw some posts where people had problems with the seam on the front of Yamaziko's arm/robes. I minimized that by sanding down the fitting peg sides and ends so I could get a nice tight fit and line up the robe folds exactly as they needed to be. Made the seam disappear Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgraz Posted September 17, 2012 Report Share Posted September 17, 2012 I did my rail crew the other day. Along with the archers and Yamaziko. The Archer heads were kind of a PITA, but other than that I thought everything went together really well. I used the Testors master plastic cement and it was great. Some minor gaps that I bet that liquid green stuff would be good for. Kang has a wrench woven into his hair....how cool is that? And after seeing Mei, I've come to the conclusion that she isn't jumping out of anything, she is jumping on something that she is breaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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