nagash13

you are able to paint and wash over the top of clear coat. in fact i highly recommend you glos varnish a model before you wash it, as this helps reduce surface tension and allows the wash to really flow into the recesses and along cracks(like the coffins). when done, just add a new clear coat to seal it again. i like to use a matte finish as the final coat, but some people go with a satin(semi gloss) because they feel a matte will dull down highlights and sometimes even "frost" the model when not done right or in poor weather conditions.

interesting. if i left click on the photo i get just a thumbnail, but if i right click, and select open in a new tab, i get your photobucket with full size photos. the snake pattern is very impressive. love the Cerberus pattern as well, but i see what mako means about the heads disappearing into the body.

interesting concept.

small pics are small. i need pics i can biggify

this makes me a sad panda

what glue for clear plastics? who makes it? my google-fu was strong today, i give you: http://www.testors.com/product/136938/8876C/_/Clear_Parts_Cement_Window_Maker

http://www.thewarstore.com/product67952.html it actually is a darker grey than what the box on the screen is. much more of a midpoint between black and white. I just wish it was sold in bottles bigger than 17ml. I have a metric ****ton of priming to do when i get my kickstarter rewards assembled. looking at that site, it seems vallejo has added several colors of airbrush primer that might be worth checking out.

while i'm still a novice with an airbrush, I would be a fool to say I wouldnt try to paint anything you sent over the pond my way. although i cant imagine shipping from denmark to here is at all cheap. so if you created something i would be honored to try and do the sculpt justice with a paintjob.

i am eager to see how this turns out. i was thinking of a similar LED plan, but then i remembered i have well over 300 models assembled and waiting their turn for paint, and decided to go with dayglow. also i wanted to add some paint so i figured the clear would be wasted on my plan.

i switched to airbrush primer and now spray in my apartment. no more issues with snow or humid summers.

very effective. i like it. i posted the finished metal butterfly in a thread "fin side project with an airbrush"

so the back story on this piece is as follows: last summer i was helping my mom clean out her garage so she could park the car inside this winter. during the cleanup I found this metal butterfly that had all its color bleached white by the sun, and some rust spots. I brought it back to new york with me, and decided I would repaint it for mom. all she said was she liked purple. so i sanded the rust off, added a new primer, and had some fun with the airbrush. the purple was done by starting with a lavender and white 50/50 mix. i gave the entire butterfly a coat over the grey primer. next i used straight lavender. i started on the wing edges, and carefully worked my way in. by angling the airbrush about 45 degrees, and not aiming all the way to the center, the lavender overspray creates a nice fade transition from the first color at the center to the lavender about mid wing. next was the richer royal purple. same technique but covering even less. it takes a bit of practice but with minimal effort you can get a really nice color fade effect. afterwards i applied masking tape with holes cut in it and sprayed the yellow spots for pop color. the body and antennae were painted black, and the eyes painted by hand last. for a sense of scale, wingtip to wingtip is 16 inches. next up i'll be giving it multiple varnish coats to help protect it. then pack it up and mail it off to mom for a late xmas gift. just thought i would share this in the painting forum to maybe inspire some others to try their hand at stuff like this.

ok so i ran home on my lunch break. the armor is (games workshop paints over a white primer) rakarth flesh, wash seraphim sepia, rakarth flesh, edge highlight with bleached bone.

thank you for the compliments. I just got into work, and i'm not used to day shifts, so it hurts to brain right now. when i get home, i'll review my paint order (i tend to use games workshop paints straight from the pot instead of blending my own shades. I do add matte medium to the paint pots to thin them a bit though) as i write it down on a cheat sheet so future units will match. these models were the first ones where I used resin bases, and attempted to include the laser cut paper leaves. I'm glad i bought the pack of 5 bins, each a different type of leaf with varying colors. the original plan was to use them in the netting on scratch built ghillie suits for my scouts unit. but i like the feel of them on the bases.

i prefer this glue for plastics. it has a super thin metal tube for an applicator. that helps with preventing gobs of glue ending up on the model http://www.testors.com/product/0/8872C/_/Liquid_Cement_For_Plastic you use so little one of those bottles lasts a long time. my last one lasted almost 3 years.

ok the image tool is not working, lets try this way http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy216/sweynnelson/deathwingunit_zpse3c60ab1.jpg http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy216/sweynnelson/deathwing1_zpsb42fcfd2.jpg http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy216/sweynnelson/deathwing2_zpsb7c64d35.jpg

does the left hand tuck behind the saw? as to the leg brackets, i plan to use my pin vice drill with a 1/32" drill bit to open up the holes and then use a fresh x-acto blade to clean the rest out.

perhaps its because I come from a games workshop background where an army consists of roughly 100-200 multi pose plastic minis that i dont find these at all bad to assemble. the fact that these are nearly all keyed so they match exactly the way they were designed makes life way easier. if you are having trouble i would ask are you using superglue or plastic cement? the testors model masters series plastic cement is far far superior for plastic assembly. the tiny tube allows for greater flow control and requires much less product to bond the 2 pieces. even the tiniest bonds are rock solid as the cement actually fuses the 2 pieces into one chemically. imagine trying to line up all those little arms if there were no keys on the shoulder sockets. thats where i'm coming from.

it really depends on what your color scheme is. black primer lend itself towards dark schemes. black primer also makes shading in the recesses easier. white primers area really good for bright colors that pop. they are also great if you want to use a colored ink or wash right over the white as a simple fast skin. (think young nephilem primed white and washed with purple) I tend to stay away from white primer as it is too easy to miss a spot in the recesses while painting and the white jumps out real bad. a black spot in the cracks of a model just looks like a shadow. inks ans washes will mitigate this issues though personally i dont live in an area conducive to spray can primers, so i switched to an airbrush primer that happens to be grey. so far i really like it.

in your bestest white painting, write the "new" names on the rounded lip of each models bases. then you and your opponent always know which perdita is who.

so i tried to start a new thread to show off my most recent painting project. when i tried to upload the .jpeg files from my home computer, i got an error saying all 3 were not valid. I cropped them down to lower the file size, but no luck. is there a file size limit? what offsite photo hosting places do people use if i cant upload the photos directly?

my order was of course delivered on the one day that i go out direct from work, and we had a snowstorm that turned into pouring rain as the night went on. when i got home at 3:30, the box on my front step was soaked through and soggy. thankfully all products were in vacuum sealed plastic and sustained no damage..... now that i'm at work they are sitting on my desk glaring at me, tempting me to try and assemble some of them during my breaks.

got an email telling me my order went out. I placed my order on the 30th, so it seems like the wharehouse taskmasters are pushing the minions to flush out lots of orders fast. nathan be sure to hand out siracha and wasabi flavored candy canes.

in the despicable me little girls voice "ITS SO TINY!!!!!!!"

my only suggestion is to take a red or purple wash, and carefully paint a thin layer where the scar meets normal flesh. if you have any flow enhancer if your washes, you could probably just touch the tip of the brush to the scar and let the wash wick down the line. then go back and highlight the scar one color lighter than the lightest skin tone you used. love the dirty pants. looks great. face paint too. not a huge fan of zoridas hair and cloak fur being the same color. also be careful with brown skirt on wood planks as it can kind of all blend together too much