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Not sure where you get plastic is more likely to chip then plastic, but you are incorrect. With plastic minis if you prime, paint, and clear coat them that paint isn't coming off anytime soon. As proof I offer the 150 Ork Boyz that I transported via 2 plastic baggies. That got tossed, beat, bumped, etc and not a boy has lost paint. Plastic also has the advantage of being able to use plastic glue to put them together which makes for a damn near permanent bond while also working as a mild gap filler. The only downside of plastic glue is you have to actually pay attention to how much glue you are putting on. If you put to much of it on it can run and cause damage to parts of the mini that you don't want glued.

So finally I have been able to get a regular game going and been having a damn good time doing it. The problem is my primary opponent only has The Dreamer crew and I am having trouble dealing with the combo of speed + melee dmg with the crews that I have. So what are some good schemes, model combos, etc that I should be doing. I have the following crews: Ramos + Avatar Collette Kaeris Mei Feng I have yet to run Collette vs him just because having never used her before trying to learn how to use her while also playing against The Dreamer doesn't seem like a good idea.

The 2 games I have played so far verify this tends to be the case. I never really had any issues putting down at least 1 counter every single turn using just a random Rail Worker that couldn't shovel faster on something.

This weekend I will actually be painting and posting pictures of the rail bases that my wife made and resin cast for me.

I think this is the biggest issue. This strikes me as an issue where Wyrd now know how it looks at the end and will be able to tell the artists to either tweek the drawings of the figures so the details will end up more bold when they are put into mold form. When I compare my Rial Crew to Miss T I find the details much more crisp and I bet they will be much easier to paint.

First I want to thank ehren37 for actually writing a review with specific reasons why he didn't like the plastics. But I am also going to have to disagree with you. I ended up either winning or buying every single Arcanist model at Gen Con this year and have been blown away with the quality. Things like the wood grains on Mei Feng's exploding wood, the feet of the Rail Golem, or Willie's wheelbarrow or Willies grin/teeth. This are things that would NEVER be that crisp or clean (or even possible) to show in metal. The plastics where also much, much, much, much easier to clean up. In the time it took me to remove all the mold lines from 2 Gunsmiths I was able to clean the entire Rail Crew + assemble a couple of them. Add in being able to use plastic glue and the fact the pieces are lighter I was able to spend less time holding pieces together and more time gluing things together. The only issue I had was on a couple of the really small joints putting a little to much plastic glue on. While I didn't lose any details or anything, I could see people touching the wet spots and leaving fingerprints. The big things is you REALLY should go buy good plastic glue for putting these plastics together. Some of the seams are very small, and trying to greenstuff them would be a giant PitA. I personally swear by the Testors plastic cement. The bottle I have has put together almost 200 Ork soldiers + vehicles as well as 250 Skaven + big things ans is still going strong. http://www.testors.com/product/136635/3507AT/_/Liquid_Cement_1_Oz.

I will add another vote for this. I actually bought Kaeris and Mei at Gen Con this year to team up with my Ramos crew that already had. It's an even better idea after you read the Rail Crew rules/abilities and how well it matches up with Kaeris. So the final list of things to buy: Avatar Ramos Alt. Ramos SPA swarm LSPA Mobile Tool Kit Electrical Creation Kaeris Box Mei Feng Box If you have the spare cash I will also HIGHLY recommend getting the Rail Golem. Awesome model + a high SS beat stick that is actually somewhat hard to kill. Edit: Total from my favorite retailer would be $160 for all of that, including the Rail Golem.

So what crew would you guys pick to play AGAINST a Ramos crew for a demo game? I am looking at trying to become a henchmen so trying to figure out a good crew for it. Atm I have Lady J and Perdita.

Awesome. I had heard last year it was nice for newer player, but wanted to double check. I have heard to many horror stories of scummy players blatantly cheating/playing like jerks just because a new player dared to enter for fun.

As a player who has had only had 2 or 3 games under my belt, would joining the more "serious" events be frowned upon? I honestly don't care if I show up and get my brains beat in, I just need to get some games under my belt/want to actually play this game I have put so much money into.

P3 Coal Black base coat, wash with Badab Black, drybrush of 50/50 Coal Black + dark grey, lighter drybrush of 25/75 Coal Black + dark grey. I find this is my favorite way to knock out good looking black fabrics in a timely manner. Also the rough look by drybrushing makes it look more natural.

3rd'ed For the cost and how easy it is to get there really is no reason not to use it.

A paperclip of needle is the quickest and easiest.

The quick answer is selling something like a wash requires a bunch of red tape and fees. I found that the APJ washes are darn useful and work well. But the best thing is the fact that you can adjust a wash to the EXACT thing you are doing. So if I want a more subtle wash I just add some matte medium mix, if I want to tweak a color I can add a few drops of another color, etc.

One of my favorite things to tell new painters: DO NOT START WITH YOUR FAVORITE MODEL. The reason for this is your first minis are going to look rough, no way around it. So get your first taste of painting on your Belles THEN go to Seamus. Also paint the whole crew before even thinking about going back. This will let you look at your first mini that you have painted next to your most recently painted one. It might sound stupid but being able to look and see your improvements side by side can really help keep you motivated.

For stripping minis I use nothing but Simple Green. You can leave metal, plastic, or resin things in it for months with no ill effects.

These are what I use for my crew:http://dragonforge.com/Painting%20service/for%20sale/base_sets/round%20lip%20bases/cobblestone_rubble_rlb.htm

*looks to make sure my Ramos is still on my desk Looks awesome man, GREAT metalics. What combo/steps do you use to get your metals?

-To give you an idea of how little paint you use per mini: I have basecoated and highlighted over 120 Ork Boyz with 1 bottle of Vallejo Sick Green. That bottle is still about half full... -as for the GW brushes: Either go to a place like Hobby Lobby or other arts and crafts store and buy brushes there OR go online and buy some actual good brushes. The cheap arts and crafts brushes are nice because when (not if) you do something that ruins them you are not out a bunch of money. You just toss them and grab another one. The advantages of the nicer brushes is that if you treat them well they will last years and years and years. They also will hold a point better and be more consistent then the cheap brushes. - As for picking some colors to start go digging around online and find pictures of your crew and try to find a color scheme that you like. You can then use that picture to give a good starting point of what paints you need. I will also list some of my favorite goto colors. These are very flexible colors and I find that I use them often: Games Workshops paints: *Devlan Mud *Badab Black *Gryphonne Sepia *Foundation Paints in Red and Yellow These are called "liquid talent" for a reason. By simply basecoating with a color, washing it, and then taking that same base color and using it as your first highlight gives you 3 different colors on the mini AND helps make everything pop. The foundation paints make some colors like yellow and red much, much, much, much easier to paint. P3 Paints *Coal Black *Menoth White Base *Menoth White Highlight Coal Black is actually a very, very, very deep purple. What you us this for is as a replacement to pure black. This lets you use washes and is just an easier color to work with. The two whites are what I use instead of a "pure" white. They look more realistic, and mix better/won't***** kill your color****** ****** Start Paint Nerd Talk****** This is going to be something that is a bit advanced, but it was a tip that I was told several years ago and found my minis started looking much better. Using a pure black or a pure white to darken/brighten a color via mixing can make your colors very flat and stark. If you instead use a dark purple/dark blue or a white that has some yellow in it makes the colors look more realistic and less "fake". I actually have not used a pure white or pure black in several years because every time I do I think the color just looks ugly. So play around with it and see what works for you. ****** End Painting Nerd Talk***** Vallejo Paints * everything else I have found these to be my favorite paints to use overall. Good color selection, good coverage, easy to mix consistently, etc. - Try to find a local store with a good group of miniature players. You will be surprised how much free advice and stuff you can get just by being a poor person interested in the hobby. Even just going to the store with the goal of painting stuff regularly can save you having to buy some of the colors you only need a drop or 2 of.

Looking good. I really enjoy the colors you chose for the group. As for the bases I would def go with a simple, muted base to not take away from the girls. Maybe play around with a dark red/brown for more color then just a simple grey if the texture on the bases would look good as bricks.

Thanks to his Avatar you no longer have to wait .

If it makes you feel better I am doing the same thing with the avatar. I am going to sculpt some simple flames into each hand and call it good. What is the color combo you are using to get the brass color for the Electrical Creation, Toolkit, and Brass Arachnid?

Stupid fly, get off my nose!!!! But seriously try Soul Puppet's idea and see if it gets you better results. Also maybe us a really light grey for the whites of the eye. This tens to make them less stark/more subtle.

I use 2 on every single miniature I paint: Krylon Gloss and Krylon Matte Varnish. I put 2 THIN (let the first coat dry 100% before putting the 2nd down) coats of the gloss onto the minis to prevent wear and chipping from play. After that is 100% dry I put 1 coat of matte on to remove the shine from the gloss sprays. Since I started using that method I have not had a single chip or wear on my minis. Note I transport my bulk Ork Boyz and Skaven Clanrats in plastic baggies where they rub, bounce, etc when transported.

http://www.awesomepaintjob.com/index.cfm/resources.recipes Go, watch, learn, save. I bought the stuff for painting my Orks and Skaven. Using 2-3 full washes per mini on over 250 guys got expensive real fast. All you need are the 1oz bottle of the inks. A single 1oz bottle of that ink will let you make something like a quarter gallon of wash (that's .95L for you people using funny units)