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I played years ago in 2E, lost all my models in a move across the country. Now that im homebound ive been thinking about starting up 3E, and i have a few questions

Are there any major differences?

What are a couple of good "starter" boxes so i can have my friends learn and hopefully start a regular group? (if there is one in the Akron Ohio area let me know) I played the box back then that had the jackalope and other beasties like that.

This game is the only foray into minis outside of stuff like Heroclix (even then it was a dabble), so simplicity is best to start.

Also best paint and "glue" to build with?

Thank you ahead of time.

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7 hours ago, SRGSoratonin said:

Are there any major differences?

I started in 3E, so can't be too helpful here. However, from what I hear the game is extremely similar, but much more streamlined.

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What are a couple of good "starter" boxes so i can have my friends learn and hopefully start a regular group? (if there is one in the Akron Ohio area let me know) I played the box back then that had the jackalope and other beasties like that.

I wrote up an introduction series that may be of use to you! I suggest just having each person snag a core box. In the long run, they'll do better to have one they like than an 'easy' one.

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This game is the only foray into minis outside of stuff like Heroclix (even then it was a dabble), so simplicity is best to start.

Also best paint and "glue" to build with?

Unfortunately Malifaux models can range from okay to terribly difficult. That said, i basically started fresh with wargaming (not done anything in over a decade), and Malifaux has been fine. Because you only need 6-10 models for a crew, you can deal with any difficulties. It's not like you have to construct hundreds of models.

I recommend plastic glue (of any brand really) and Vallejo brand paints. But thin your paints (and maybe buy some medium glaze to use to thin them).

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There are a few rules differences, but in general the game plays in a very similar manner. Possibly the biggest change you'll notice is the hiring rules changed to encourage thematic hiring. 

I'm not sure if any of the master boxes are " bad" ( by which I mean will really struggle to play) to start with so you're probably best finding ones you like the look of. There are some differences between the M2 and M3 boxes, but either could be options ( the M2 box may not have the right cards, but the app has them for free.). 

Not all boxes are equal points, but most of the time they are close enough that using starting cache will balance it. 

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12 hours ago, SRGSoratonin said:

Also best paint and "glue" to build with?

If you want to get a little more serious with painting the Vallejo Model Color range is a good starter.

If you're not that much into painting I'd give GW Contrast Paints a try. I haven't tried them myself but they seem to get the job done real easy and good.

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I'd go with extra thin poly cement. Great match with fiddly plastics! I really like the Tamiya brand Extra Thin bottle, as it has a really pointy and nice glue brush in the cap. However I prefer the Tamoya Limonene glue, as it's cconsiderably less smelly and headache-inducing, and supposedly a lot safer as well. So I've bough quite a few of each over the years, and use the green cap from the regular "Extra thin" in place of the orange cap from the Limonene-based version...

Also handy to have a bottle of superglue handy. Plastic glue is ususally superior, but sometimes there are gaps that could need filling with small joints, or something comes loose while the glue sets. Sometimer it's impossible to get a smooth surface to glue together with plasti cement, and then thin superglue is my best bet. Any brand should be fine, as long as you don't get a gel version most should be pretty much pure cyanoacrylate anyway...

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IMHO the biggest change in rules is terrain. I would say  Cover is completely watered down, on the other side, concealment (ie: forest) is strong, though there are many powerful ranged models that ignore both special rules. I ordered a manufacture of high fence terrains to simply block line of sight because of that.

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Sonia vs Kaeris is a good option for me.
 

It is a good clasic match to introduce people to lore.

Their core box are available right now in M3E.

In my book, both of them haven't got a complex kind of play.

 

You can think about this idea and take otber duos if you prefer others crews (Lady J vs Seamus/Molly/Stoock. Vickys vs Nekima/Marcus/Titania. Misaki vs Dashel/Lucius). But in my opinion, first option is fairness for both players.

Moving to the painting. I really love Citadel for fantastic and metallic jobs and Vallejo for realistic one. So I use both of them.

About the rule question, you are going to know differences with a quick read. They are few changes but significant one.

 

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51 minutes ago, D-solad0r said:

Sonia vs Kaeris is a good option for me.

Doesn't Sonnia vs. Kaeris run into the "Both of these crews use Burning" issue?

I'd think that would make an interesting game for an intermediate to advanced player, but that's adding a lot of complications to the situation where each player is trying to figure out what their crew's tricks are.

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