solkan

I think you mean "Nice Rail Golem. Want to see me decapitate it with one hand tied behind my back?" Or "Now just hold still and this won't hurt one bit..." The last sentence in relenting:

The other conspiracies and governments dump bodies too, you know. Wyrd unfair to shadow governments!

Shipment notification for order number four thousand, four hundred and forty four. I didn't realize until just now that I got a four of a kind.

General Timing (big rule book, page 46), clauses three and four apply even when there is no active model. So First player resolves effects, then second player resolves effects.

Pretty much the only reason why the card flip for damage is still necessary is because there exist abilities (I can think of a few Gremlin abilities, I think there are more) that allow players to put the top few cards in a deck in an order. It seems to come down to a few choices for how to write the abilities: Make the damage flip optional, and then the deck stacking abilities become more complicated Reword the abilities so that the damage flip is not performed, things like "instead of flipping for damage, instead paralyze the target". Just use standardized timing clauses like "After succeeding" and keep the number of cards consumed by an attack ability consistent and predictable. To me, it seems like it's worth the silliness of flipping for damage that's just going to get reduced to 0 to keep the card consumption rates consistent and predictable when players are stacking decks.

For what it's worth, I'm pretty sure that there are no generic upgrades in the Shifting Loyalties book. But as far as I know the reason why the Generic Upgrade deck exists is so that new players (who have only ever purchased 2nd edition plastic kits) no longer have to buy the armory decks.

I have 40k rulebooks back from the era before the bases were standardized as round (there were large models that were sold with the same square bases that Warhammer Fantasy Battle uses). Square bases or rectangular bases cause troubles when moving that circular bases don't--when you turn a square base around its center, the corners of the base sweep out and cross bases that are touching or near the square base. For as long as I've been reading rule discussions in forums (from about 40k 3rd edition to now), there have been arguments caused by taking a rectangular or oval vehicle, pivoting it 90 degrees, and then trying to figure out whether the vehicle moves its movement rate from where its front side is now or from where it's side was. Oval bases cause the same argument. So if you're looking for a reason why people use round bases, that's a big one: Fewer arguments caused by pivoting models. There's a similar reason for measuring distances from base edges instead of base centers--put different models on top of round bases and try to precisely determine the center point of the base, repeatedly, and precisely.

You have to give them a picture of your receipt/invoice for that, so you probably need to wait for the box to arrive.

The trigger is "After succeeding, ..." which the rulebook says applies after Step 5. But the effect is "reduce all damage to 0" which is relevant during Step 5. So the attack does no damage during Step 5, and General Timing says that the paralysis is going to be the first thing resolved after Step 5. (Acting Model's abilities resolve first, and Triggers are resolved before non-triggers if they happen at the same time, so that trigger is going to be at the front of the queue.)

The rules are written for round bases. If you're going to use square bases, you're going to be way better off painting/etching/enscribing the appropriate circules on the bases and then doing your best to pretend that the square parts of the base don't exist. Malifaux doesn't have facing--every model can see in a complete 360 degrees--so being able to mark orientation/facing simply isn't an issue. (I've gotten so used to painting forward arcs on bases for games like Warmachine that I've just been painting my Malifaux models with the front arc marked as 360 just so I never forget. "Oh, yeah, facing doesn't matter in this game.")

Otherwise, I like the idea, but I think the Gundam head is a bit too big for the model.

For comparison, from the card of everyone's favorite murder machine, Howard Langston: Target chooses, not Mr. or Ms. Langston. Same thing goes for the Crossroads models. The enemy model has to deal with "must discard a card or suffer two damage, unless _______". So the controller of the enemy model makes the choice. After playing in an Enforcer brawl where about half the people were using Howard Langston (or Miss Step), discard abilities can add up really fast.

Looking at the rules for Actions, the timing sequence breaks down like so: Declare Action & Spend AP. Perform Duels Resolve Results. The very last paragraph for "Declare Action & Spend AP" says: In other words, the duel for Terror happens before the step where you resolve the duels for the action: And Focus specifies that it provides the positive flip to the Action's duel and damage flip: So, short version: Duels caused by other abilities (such as Terror) aren't "the Action's duel and damage flip" and thus don't benefit from Focused.

I think the main problem with trying to do cardboard barrels is that you're replicating the pain-in-the-butt process of making real barrels in miniature if you want nicely curved/tapered barrels. For example, I have some doll house barrels that I got from Hobby Lobby that were made by the process: Run dowel cutter down wooden dowel, creating varying thickness sections but not cutting the sections apart. Carve out barrel pattern on side of the wooden dowel. Cut dowel into sections. Cut out and attach decorative metal bands to the barrel sections. But, really, I think this just illustrates how much of an unexpected pain in the butt the process of making one of those "bulge in the middle" barrels is in real life: Short version: Barrel makers cheat by using the metal bands to allow them to bend the wood into the barrel shape. But, at the same time the strips of wood have been cut at an angle so they squeeze together.

The evil dolls in Collodi's box set either have multiple options or are really easy to put together wrong. (I ended up with a few extra pieces of stuffing or something...) I'm still repressing my memories of assembling the marionettes, but I think you could get some different poses and combinations out of them, too.

Useful things: Download and print out the two reference cards that they have in Resources on the main website: http://www.wyrd-games.net/resources When the Schemes and Strategies Deck comes back into print, buy one. Until then, there are some scheme and strategy reference cards that people have written up, but I'm not sure where they are at the moment. Pre-order the Generalist Upgrade Deck if you don't want to photocopy cards out of the books. The card decks in the Two Player Starter box are the easiest for a new player to use, because they have the joker rules written on them. Next easiest are the Malifaux Fate Decks in the plain looking boxes (black box with a ribbon of color). The mini-rulebook is really nice. Dry erase markers. All of the Malifaux cards come treated so you can mark them up with dry erase markers, and don't have to get sleeves.

"a model can't take more damage than it has remaining wounds" is Warmachine/Hordes. And overkill isn't a form of damage reduction. If the Sorrow is sitting at 2 damage, and an attack inflicts 4 damage on it, Pandora would have to suffer 3 damage to reduce the damage to amount that won't kill the model.

Gremlins in the Foundry! Gremlins in the Foundry! It's a plot to make me go "Oh, well, I have so many Gremlin models now, I may as well pick up one of the master boxes..."

I'm of the opinion that it's just easier to sculpt and cast barrels. Either buying the mold from some place like Hirst Arts, or getting a casting kit and making it yourself. But that's just me and my obsessive desire to have several square inches of barrels on a table.

There's no requirement for the line of sight lines to go into anything, they just have to touch. As illustrated in question 30 in the July 2015 FAQ, where Lilith is standing with half of her base in cover, and Rasputina is drawing line of sight to the parts not in cover.

Yeah, "If they fail and the Action was a Charge, it must target this model, if able." seems to me to be "If they fail and the Action was a Charge, Change the target of the Charge to Ironsides, if the charge can reach her" since the game has that thing about not allowing charges that are out of range. The AP has already been spent, that doesn't change.

I think your example at the end there is slipping out of Gambling and into Pick Pocket (Sleight of hand, both as theft and illusion) for things like getting cards into and out of your sleeve.

What's your opinion of how the Rail Golem looks standing next to Mei Feng's crew?

Concerning Gambling and Mathematics... Gambling: Knowing the odds of something happening in the game. "Does the other player have a full house based on X cards visible?" Mathematics: Figuring out the odds of something in the game. "Hold on a minute. Let me apply those statistics formulae I learned in class to work out what the odds of the other player having a full house if they have X cards visible." The two skills have different aspects, and different approaches to figuring out the same thing. But the person with the Mathematics skill isn't going to know when to fold (without spending several minutes working out the odds), and the person with Gambling won't be doing calculus or "What are the odds of choosing X colored marbles from a jar" calculations. Likewise, for Appraise vs. Barter. Appraise is figuring out how much that golden idol you found is worth. Barter is convincing someone to give you that much, or more. (And Deceive would be convincing someone that the gold leaf idol was solid gold and thus worth a lot more. )

Hmm. I don't know how much balsa wood Michaels is going to carry. According to their website, you'd be looking at getting the "Revell Balsa Project Bag" which would either be in the vanishingly small (plastic) model kit section, or the woodcrafting section with the little wooden boxes and bags of unpainted wooden blocks.