RagingRodian Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 I still think it's worth noting that the moment Piracy was brought up, I kinda dropped the idea. :-P It's you silly people who keep bringing it up. I didn't even think on that level when I thought "Hey, wouldn't it be cool if the Nothing beast was see through? All it does is destroy light to make itself visable and known to those who it cares to have see it." However, I do like the idea of creating a 100% original mold, and then filling it with see-through plastic resin, stating this is my nothing beast... Might have to do it really simply, because i"m not a sculptor... defiantly couldn't do the Tenticle'd awesome that is the epic sculpt Wyrd produced. I doubt anyone would think that you didn't start this thread with the best of intentions! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnternalVoid Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 (edited) However, I do like the idea of creating a 100% original mold, and then filling it with see-through plastic resin, stating this is my nothing beast... Might have to do it really simply, because i"m not a sculptor... defiantly couldn't do the Tenticle'd awesome that is the epic sculpt Wyrd produced. If you do decide to do this in the future I can give you suggestion from working with some homemade molds as well. Just some stuff to have in mind if you ever take up this idea. First unless you have practiced or done some molds before hand accept the model might be somewhat 2D, or at you said simple. The reason I say it is because unless you want to make the model as multiple parts it will be hard otherwise to make it very detailed and a single part. There are several things you can consider though at this point. If you do decided to try multiple parts there might be ways to hide the connection in certain regards depending on how the joint goes together. Due to the difficulty of this most prefer a single piece as it is less likely of failing in that regard. But in my own research on clear resin before there was talk of how certain Resins will bound with each other with out leaving a clear visible indication. Many of those that involve sealing something like a shell talk about doing several laters to build it up thick, but the examples don't look like you can see the layers after it is done. It might be possible, if you are serious to emply a similar method to effectively fuse parts together though to be honest it complicated. If going for a single piece cast and avoiding it, you can still get a fair bit of complication as long as you have a medium line of sort across your model. Basically it is a line were you can have the two halves of the mold divide but it also allows for all the parts to come out of the mold and fits to the channels that will likely be required to make this work. With the molds I did in the past for projects I often used plastics rather than clear resin and could use an air compressor set up to deal with bubbles and the like in such molds, but the few times I messed to much with clear resin the type I had was not a fan of air compressors. So getting the right type would be important, thus more search. Which leads into the next thing to keep in mind. Hared good research on clear Resin. The first stuff I tried when I was trying to make a crystal hammer head for a High Elf model when I left the first proto type piece out turned slight yellowish as it sat on the desk for some time. I found out after further research online that some clear resin stuff does that. Apparently it is why some say UV protected or the like. So researching always take that extra bit of research into a product before hand and not do a snap decision just cause you found it at the hobby store. I have seen a couple other stuff I would like to give a try if I go for a real clear resin project outside of just fountains, swamps, and the like right now. You can also probe forums for personal experience from people and hunt people that have had articles where they have used clear resin on a model, such as Mako from here, I believe he had used a clear resin on his Misaki piece in the Chronicle in the base for the water. If I remember right it was a pretty nice clear resin. Honestly, this discussion is making that itch come back... been so long since I have broke the air compressor and tools. And as said, a Nothing Beast might not need to be complicated or fit Anotomy as nicely as a human figure might. It was part of what shot me down quite a bit was the lack of sculpting skill to model up and make miniatures. Also working out of an apartment on this sort of thing is rough. Might have to put it on the list and see if I feel like tackling it later. Afterall I am getting the Tara box eventually in the mail so I will have an offical one if it is ever an issue. Edited September 2, 2013 by EnternalVoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fetid Strumpet Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 You could also make a minor diorama base, where the impression of foot prints can be see, and bent plants give the impression of shape that we can't see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnternalVoid Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 You could also make a minor diorama base, where the impression of foot prints can be see, and bent plants give the impression of shape that we can't see. Maybe be even get another model and have it being attacked in addition to this to further the image of an invisible killer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagingRodian Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 You could also make a minor diorama base, where the impression of foot prints can be see, and bent plants give the impression of shape that we can't see. Sometimes simple=better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fetid Strumpet Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 A superior Modeler I think could make such a dioramic base be so stunning it would be better than anything a physical model would do. I'm not that good, but I would love to see someone do so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaled Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 I know someone (Inquisitor Goldeneye) who sculpted an invisible creature by modelling it's claws covered in the blood and guts of its poor victim. The original thread is linked to below, but I don't think he'll mind me cutting and pasting part of his post to illustrate his idea... http://www.the-conclave.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=2333.msg31467#msg31467 - Dave First, fail to feast your eyes on the giant, savage, completely invisible monster otherwise known as; the INVISIBEAST!!!! From the left. From the right. From the back. A top-down view. <snip> Obviously, there were certain challenges involved in sculpting a model of an invisible character, and I did briefly toy with the idea of just having some foot-prints on a base (or even just an empty base!) but that seemed like a bit of a cop-out. Eventually I decided to have it grasping ropes of viscera from some unfortunate victim with its claws covered in blood, which would also provide some medium in which foot-prints (or hoof-prints, in this case) could exist. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted September 2, 2013 Report Share Posted September 2, 2013 Wow, that is an awesome way to show an invisible and scary creature. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyW Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 It is awesome, but (emphasis) IMO not really suitable for tabletop playing. My club play in pubs, so lighting isn;t great, on generally dark surfaces, with buildings also being dark (except for a couple of western themed towns). So having a miniature that is either mostly not there or able to blend into the background makes for a game where it can easily be overlooked. It can be argued that that makes the minature more realistic, but I don't want to lose simply because a model blended into the background and I forgot it was there. Hence why I use luminous orange objective markers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_was_like_you Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Very nice idea. Like splashing paint on the Invisible Man. Only much bloodier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tothric Posted September 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2013 Thanks Kaled, that's pretty awesome. I think a really neat mini. Andy, that's a fairly good point, but right now: we are currently going with a Swirling semi-luminous paint and swirls of purple, black, and deeper purple... mixing it together like a void of the night sky. We hope it turns out pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
G. Footman Posted September 11, 2013 Report Share Posted September 11, 2013 I think I've seen someone do something similar with a tyranid lictor for W40k, it was a pretty cool effect. no clue if wyrd'd approve of it though, maybe if you made it clear enough your intent wasn't to sell it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.