Liquid Greenstuff??

[Jewomie]

Man... i am blowing the forums up... my apologies to you guys.

(you missed me though, didn't you?;D you know you did!)

Anyway, just a quick question here

I did not know that one could buy liquid greenstuff from the new GW paints line. Have any of you tried it, and would you recommend it?

Also, any notes on it's use? i have used a lot of greenstuff in my time, but never in liquid form. haha

any thoughts or tips would be appreciated!!!!

[Solidus]

I've used it to "paint" Ponto a new arm as they are to thin and wiry for my fat fingers to manipulate. Other than that I haven't used it.

[Viruk]

It's pretty good if you want to make uneven surface smoother or fill in a very small hole. Other than that it's pretty much useless imho. I generally stick to the normal GS.

[Jewomie]

It's pretty good if you want to make uneven surface smoother or fill in a very small hole. Other than that it's pretty much useless imho. I generally stick to the normal GS.

Thanks!

So, would you use it to fill the tiny cracks where two pieces come together in the plastics? Maybe it's just me, but i am having a lot of issues with gaps such as Yan Lo's shoulders or Yamizako's robe right where her arm attaches. The gaps are just small enough that the regular greenstuff seems a bit much and i'm having to scrape most of it off which creates a fair amount of waste since i am terrible at judging how much i need to mix. at the same time, if i'm going to drop the cash on it, i'd like it to be useful more than just once or twice a year. I can burn through some regular greenstuff, but this seems as situational as Hans. :/

[theJudge]

It has helped me greatly with the gaps found in some of the new plastics. Namely Lunas back and the Lucas' horse as well as one of the guild riflemen.

My tips would be the following

1. Water it down a bit
   
2. Apply multiple coats
   
3. Smooth with a damp brush
   
4. Once dry, file it smooth.
   

No, this is really only for smaller gaps. Larger gaps always get the traditional green stuff treatment from me.

[Jewomie]

It has helped me greatly with the gaps found in some of the new plastics. Namely Lunas back and the Lucas' horse as well as one of the guild riflemen.

My tips would be the following

1. Water it down a bit
   
2. Apply multiple coats
   
3. Smooth with a damp brush
   
4. Once dry, file it smooth.
   

No, this is really only for smaller gaps. Larger gaps always get the traditional green stuff treatment from me.

Oh, of course. if the gap were big enough i would rather use the regular stuff. i know how to use it and how to manipulatie it look how i want it to. My only issue at the moment is a lot of these lines would disappear even under just a heavy coat of primer (which i wont risk) so i thought maybe the liquid was the way to go.

How do you apply it? toothpicks and such, or with an old throw-away brush?

[Jonasty]

Any cracks I've tried to cover with the liquid greenstuff have been too big to see any effect, it just pours in and does nothing. So far I've not found it to be any real use over the normal GS.

Viruk's thought about smoothing a surface would probably be its best use. Similarly it might work for any kind of skin effect, maybe covering a section of model with a layer of it and then scraping/brushing some texture on to it to make scars or boils or something. But for the "typical" use of GS, i.e. gap filling or sculpting, it's pretty much worthless.

[SpiralngCadavr]

I haven't tried thinning it, but I've used Vallejo's plastic putty (I believe it's the same stuff, just not dyed green ), and it's terrible under the knife but it works well to file it. As mentioned above, it's not for sculpting. Think of it like spackel for models.

[theJudge]

How do you apply it? toothpicks and such, or with an old throw-away brush?

I just dampen my size 3 brush and use it. the Liquid GS is water soluble so it shouldn't damage your brushes.

[Viruk]

I tried LGS on small cracks, such as Jakob's arm etc. After playing aroung with LGS for a while I finished these off with regular GS - this one gives you more control and hides the cracks better.

I can also highly recommend using rubber sculpting tools with GS (like those in the pic below)

If you dip them in water throughout the whole process, GS won't stay on these.

[Jewomie]

I love those tools! i have used them a couple of times. Sadly, once you leave home, you often lose access to your parents cool toys. I lost a lot of my modeling supplies when i moved out. lol

[Space Donkey]

I'm actually a big fan of LGS. I use it for smoothing and some gap filling. My Spawn Mother and Bad Juju both had bad gaps at the shoulders and I used them as my first experiment with LGS. I had to use several layers, but they did the job perfectly and made it look very smooth.

[xKoBiEx]

LGS was very useful for my Misaki box set. Also, it is great for doing hair and clothing which doesn't need to be thick.

[adary]

LGS can be useful for small cracks, but it's not a real putty. It's a thick acrylic gel died green. For proper crack filling nothing beats superfine milliput (you can actually water it down and "paint" it on) and for smoothing out surfaces, mr. surfacer from gunze is top notch

[SteamHammer]

Super glue and baking powder. The poor man's thin gap filler.

[phatheadaf]

I am no modeling pro for sure, but the liquid green works pretty good. I used in on my Criid Avatar, and it came out pretty sweet. I've also started to use it to secure pieces that glue won't grab, that I can't seem to pin. Two pieces of advice:

1. you need to use it heavy to fill a crack, and smooth over, as it goes on like super think paint, and if you don't use enough it doesn't fill the gap.

2. it dries wicked quick, so DON'T leave the bottle un capped. It's easy to work w/ on the model, but I know somebody who got side tracked and finished the model they were working on, and then came back and found their green stuff no longer liquid .

Other than that, it's worth the $4 IMHO. Works well for an amatuer like me...

A.

[i_was_like_you]

I tried LGS on small cracks, such as Jakob's arm etc. After playing aroung with LGS for a while I finished these off with regular GS - this one gives you more control and hides the cracks better.

I can also highly recommend using rubber sculpting tools with GS (like those in the pic below)

[ATTACH=CONFIG]11670[/ATTACH]

If you dip them in water throughout the whole process, GS won't stay on these.

Thanks for the tip. Found a set of these at Hobby Lobby on clearance for $5, originally marked $40. Will see how well they work on my next project.

---------- Post added at 05:02 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:57 PM ----------

Super glue and baking powder. The poor man's thin gap filler.

My poor man's gap filler is clear Elmer's school glue (white might work too, but this is what I had on hand). Gotta put it on, let it flow into cracks and dry, then add more as needed, as it does evaporate a bit when drying. After it's dry, primer right over it.

Used it for my Spawn Mother. Worked especially well at filling the seam in her mouth without losing any of the detail.

[Merbak]

Also, I've found that if you put a small amount of it on one side of a troublesome joint, and a dot of zap-a-gap on the other, it solidifies very quickly. Using it this way, I was able to assemble a pair of Large Steampunk Arachnids in under an hour.

[ddot]

I rather like it, although the name itself seems to be a bit misleading. I wouldn't expect it to have most of the utility you'd get with GS.

For the beginning LGS user, one thing must be made clear: It must fully cure between layers or it re-wets and becomes a useless mess. I recommend 12-24 hrs depending on humidity, if you have a fast-dry set-up (I've seen a light and a coffee tin used) you can get away with much less time.

First, the thick (read: out of pot) version does a decent job at gap-filling, but for critical joins, I prefer "regular" green stuff (RGS). Remember that RGS can be manipulated to "extra yellow" to make it softer, thus easier to manipulate for simple gap filling. I raely use the LGS in this capacity as even "EYRGS" does a better job of it.

One excellent use I have found for LGS is to thin it down and use it to prep the model for painting. Once cured, it's sandable and finishes smooth. I do this to fill in the tiny pits that sometimes occur in casting. LGS, cure, sand, and you have a pretty smooth surface, without obscuring details. The only exceptin is a highly-detailed area, which I tend to paint around it with the LGS. These areas are there for a reason, and the pitting isn't as problematic.

For this use alone I like it, although I still prefer "EYRGS" for gap-filling.