paradoxstorm

Dammit! I was going to paint one snow, one tiger and call it good. Now I need one ice!!! Nice work by the way.

I never played until second edition. I have the earlier books on order so that I can catch up on the fluff, but all my rules knowledge comes from 2nd ed rules--avoid reading the rules in those earlier books and you should be fine with the "transition." The only real problem I have had is that some of the older models have not been reproduced in plastic and are completely, totally, out of print. Even as an adult learner I am a fan of limiting the number of schemes and strategies in the early stages of learning. For a 10ish year old I would strongly recommend it. Changing prostitutes to zombie dancers is a reasonable notion, until the kid reads the cards. There are plenty of crews where such things won't be an issue and limiting a person to a small set of crews (1 or 2) while learning is something several of us are discussing in another thread. Indicating that the young person is a friend, I would also run models such as Perdita past the parents. She is covered and a lot of parents will not think twice about a sexily clad model, but others will get upset.

This is what I wanted to get at in my earlier post, but didn't. I have picked a faction and a master. I am going to learn to play that master to some level of competence then add a second master. I haven't set a limit on how long I will play my first master, but I have a notion of how well I want to be playing her before I move on. If that takes a year, so be it--but I fully expect that 3-4 months will be all I need for "level 1" competence. I also expect that when I switch masters, and eventually factions, I will learn additional stuff that will help me understand my first master even better. Switching masters and factions will allow me to move from "level 1" to "level 2" and beyond--but only if I start with some level of competence with my first master. I can see switching masters initially looking for a play style that suits you. My first game was with rezzers--not really my thing and had I pushed myself to learn rezzers first I probably wouldn't have lasted. It was several months between my first and second games so I had a lot of time to reflect on my preferences and pick a faction more to my liking. So far, so good. My opponent/coach has now suggested reducing the scheme/strategy pool and I am very happy about that. Conceptually I love all the variations of schemes and strategies, but adding all of that on top of trying to figure out what models do and how to use them is a bit overwhelming for an occasional player. I only expect to take a few games to learn each scheme/strategy, especially focusing one or two at a time. So what Lunar said--set outcome goals, not time goals. Select goals that are enough beyond you that you have to stretch yourself to reach them, but not so far that you get frustrated and quit or take months and months to achieve them. For example--memorizing the details of 6 models so that you automatically know their primary stats, abilities, and attacks is achievable in a relatively short time and will improve your game play 'cause you don't have to re-read the card every few minutes to get the information. (one of my goals for the crew I am running right now.) (Also see thread about how long it takes to play a game. Right now re-reading cards is adding at least 40 minutes to my game time. If I can get my core crew memorized, I can play more games.) From there you can add a few models at a time as needed. (A next stage goal for myself.) Memorizing the details of every model in a given faction is a much longer-term goal. (I want to play multiple factions and have no intent of achieving this goal. If I were to limit myself to a single faction I would start by memorizing a few at a time.)

I'm focusing on one faction for a while. Adding masters as I feel comfortable. An opponent who enjoys "training" games is a good option for learning opposing factions--lots of talking out loud about strategies during play is a good way to learn how to deal with opponents.

Thanks. I am comfortable with trial-and-error. I have duplicates of several crews assuming that I will get better with time so that I'll want a redo on the first crews I put together. I also suffer from a bit of perfectionism and often get more frustrated than I should with the "error" part. I am still unsure if I have any imagination, but I am working on it.

A lot of the metal starter crews had 5 figures and were priced in the US$35 - $45 range so a 6 figure box @ US$ 50 isn't out of line. And the retail on metal singles of modest size could easily hit $18. The real sticker shock comes when you go from ebay to retail -- that will set your head to spinning. (And before I get jumped on, I do buy some from the physical game store to pay for the play space that I use.) If lower prices would sell enough extra models to keep profits the same or higher then prices would come down. But that can only happen if a lot more people show up to buy Malifaux figures and no matter how much we might love the game, it is a niche market and a large increase in sales is unlikely.

Thanks Jim and Math, I am equal parts excited and hesitant as I look at and think about all the possibilities. I've never been an artistic person, but I do enjoy a challenge. I am hoping the part of my brain that says "oh, that makes a lot of sense" can get together with the part of my brain that actually directs my hands to do the work. Stuff like this gives me a fighting chance!

Thanks Math, there are a lot of tips there. Gives me a lot to think about.

So I really admire a lot of the basing works that I see others doing and wonder if I can even begin to duplicate it. In another thread I mention using magnets to allow moving Coryphee from one base to another and got a good tip: Thanks for the tip Math. Now I need some instruction on basing. I have picked up some things like making stone using green stuff, but I don't have any idea where to even begin with finding and adding stuff to bases. Links to instructional videos and blogs would be greatly appreciated.

I'm going to add another kidnapping threat to your list. But don't fear, my daughter is no longer using her room and it is only a few feet away from my work space where you'll find lots of models, paint, and misc basing supplies that I have no clue how to use effectively. Her room is comfortable and I could set up a work space for you right there if walking across the hall is too burdensome. Lovely work!

I think I have the right sort of cork, so I'll give that a go in a few days and see if I can do a proper hill. If that works I'll get to buying/collecting bits for the junk part. Thanks.

I have plenty of Styrofoam, but like the look you got with cork so I'm gonna give that a try and see if I I can make it work. A junk covered hill is more appealing to me than an entire hill of junk. Now I just have to figure out where to get some bits of steampunk junk . Gears are easy, tons of them on ebay as well as a few in a watch I need to scrap.

Thanks for the suggestion. I did manage one pair, and believe I have a second coming as part of a larger collection I bought off of ebay. Got some rare earth magnets on order as well so maybe I'll be able to make it work out. On topic: Since I like metal, ebay is a reasonable option for me for most models, but there are some that I can only get if I purchase the collection of someone getting out of the game. Unfortunately buying collections to get a couple of models is going to leave me with more trade stock than I really care for. But I can get them. Wyrd did "oops" something in the transition from metal to plastic. It is frustrating sometimes not being able to get some models I want, but given how much I spend every week on models that are available I can tolerate a moderately slow release of new models.

I'm terribly sorry, these will just never do. I think your best course of action is to box them up and send them to me for proper disposal. Seriously--I like and want some of my very own. PP = ?? I guessed "Privateer Press" but I couldn't find any junk pile hills. Should I keep looking or did I already go horribly wrong?

I don't have enough experience to comment on the accuracy of the list, but I like the basic idea--especially for newbs. For the newb who is more into game than fluff, or on a limited budget, it should provide some useful guidance. The only thing I would add is something about general play style with an eye to avoiding the mismatch that is so often reported by new players who haven't added enough or the right sort of terrain.

I understand, and agree, with all of the concerns expressed. That said, I still think Wyrd providing the webspace is the best solution. I started a laundry list of all the potential problems that could arise if the wiki is kept in private hands and they represent every bit as much, and sometimes more, risk as having Wyrd provide the space under the general terms outlined. I applaud everyone who is identifying potential problems because that helps Wyrd minimize the problems setting up the wiki on their space. I can see already that they will have to take steps to make sure that the fan based nature of the site is not only a fact, but a visible fact. For those who are concerned that Wyrd may shut down the wiki without notice, I would strongly urge the acquisition of software that allows you to copy an entire website and take a monthly snapshot. That provides a safeguard against sudden loss. So, Wyrd, I appreciate your offer and I encourage you, if you haven't already, to get working with the PFM wiki owners on restarting the wiki on Wyrd territory.

What Loveless said. Because I live in the middle of no where I frequent internet shops and ebay--plenty of Rasputina boxes out there if you prefer online ordering. (But do buy from your local shop since they likely provide you with a place to play an you'll likely find someone to help you learn.)

Thanks. Since my life until now involves a rather different sort of modeling, I am going to check my understanding: 1/4" scale means that 1/4" = 1 foot?

I know someone knows cause I see folks building beautiful terrain settings, but I can't seem to find the secret store of knowledge---wrong search terms I suppose Anyway--I have a pile of scrap wood and some other stuff that I would like to try making into terrain. I want to start with a couple of buildings, but have only a vague sense of what size(s) would be appropriate. So, if I were going to start out by trying to build a nicely sized collection of 3-5 buildings, what assortment of sizes would work well?

I found this link on Facebook, hopefully the copy/paste works. http://l.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tabletopgamingnews.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2014%2F09%2Fclear-base-Warmachine.jpg&h=yAQHi2sHQ&s=1

Cool, I have the dowel but was told as soon as I started sawing the tokens would start flying all over the place. I am guessing that that didn't happen to you which means I have plans for this weekend

Did you cut the rounds or buy them pre-cut?

Looks like two price points: $50/year with 2GB $200/year with 5GB

What about this for silent one? http://www.reapermini.com/Miniatures/Bones/latest/77022

Looking forward to seeing some photos (and maybe a bit of a tutorial?).