SpiralngCadavr

I like the rust effect you've got going, there.

IMHO, PP hasn't innovated much since the release of MkII, and I think your assessment is pretty accurate.

I like the eyes, nice idea.

Really? If so, it's one more thing adding to my feeling how out of touch they're getting. For anyone who doubted whose footsteps PP's following...

I'm really liking the bob-omb, and curious what you're using for the widow weaver.

Yeah, that was pretty informative, thanks.

Wow, this thread is quickly evolving in to one of the more literate (and literary) conversations I've encountered in a gaming forum. Gotta finish reading the Malifaux books to avoid spoilers!

Really liking however you shaded a lot of the animals, furs, etc.

Cool idea, yeah, I could definitely see that.

I'm almost positive that new events always interrupt ongoing events, but I can't find a page number to be certain on that.

Sure. How you can tell if you have a newer card is in one of the corners, there'll be a little "v2"

Hi, I was wondering what the holders for malifaux-sized cards are called, and where the best place to get them is. Thanks in advance.

A rule I was toying with was making doorways that were too small just count as severe terrain: the bigger things can fit-- but only sort-of, so they're slower getting through (basically, 1.5" penalty for medium bases, and 2" penalty for large, since the penalty is as long as their base is on the terrain piece, which conveniently means that the bigger the model, the harder time it has getting through). Personally, unless it's part of the scenario, I try to avoid breakable scenery, as I can never keep track of it.

Yeah, I only have a V1 card, and I believe it doesn't specify.

Yeah, we'll be using (a possibly modified version of) the interior rules for the sewer. Probably just play it like the sewer from the RM. I'm basically done with the first section's structure/texture, outside of the catwalk/second level, so I decided to start on the other sections. The first section had a lot of wasted material, because I didn't really have a good sense of how proportions would work with a 4" height. With this one, I had a much clearer sense of structure going in to it, so it took probably half as long to plan. I'll be doing the lower level of the remaining two sections, before doing the second level on all three. So, without further ado…

IRC, the v2 card (downloadable in the resource section) specifies a wound number? It's never come up, so I haven't looked.

Yeah, we've played it as interactive terrain that moves: i.e., it's not a model, so things that explicitly target models won't work on it (for example, Flesh Construct's end of turn attack).

Prefab rooms could work, depending on if that allows flexible setup. I'd suggest making few-to-no spots narrower than 2", just so everything can get through, but otherwise, malifaux seems fairly able to support high terrain density. I'd also suggest few walls much longer than 8 or 10", just because it can start to dominate the flow of the game.

Hi, those washes look good, and I think the blue did a nice job giving a little sense of oxidation. I also like the toxic green on their bases. What did you do for the Guardian base? Regarding bases, in the future, it'll probably be a good idea to pin minis to their bases. While glue will hold decently, you'll eventually get some breakage (though it's less likely on the hunter, because of 3 points of contact).

I can't stand the convergence sort of scenarios for 3-way games. What about, 5 (or something) markers, like A line in the Sand, but instead of taking 2 actions to diffuse it, it take 2 actions to claim an already claimed marker? It feels like a diffused battle would work better

Most starter sets are missing one or two integral pieces- for instance, Lilith's set is missing the Young Nephilim (I don't know Rasputina's, so can't comment there, but she seems like she'd really like a totem). This is a bit of a double-edged sword, in that you immediately know what your next purchase should be (assuming you like the other minis), but also means that Malifaux doesn't have phenomenal starters. Most also consist of 2-3 decent pieces, a master, and one heavy hitter. Lilith's and Rasputina's follow this pattern, so that's fine. Not knowing how Rasputina's plays, I can't say if there's a glaring vulnerability on one side or the other, but they should be pretty balanced. Regarding different point sizes, that's perfectly fine: your extra soulstones go towards your pool in-game, so they're not lost. In this case, it would mean that Lilith has 6 soulstones in her pool and Rasputina has 4 (or 7/5 or 8/6, depending on how much flexibility you want to give your masters)

re: above, The only place I've seen gaming books at book stores is if it's a used book store. I'm in a similar boat, where there was some Malifaux activity, but before I got to the game store. There's just a little interest right now, but I'm not sure how to get more attention for the game, so I'm interested in generating more player interest, too.

The most consise advice I could offer is on your highlighting. Your shading looks fine, but for highlighting, I'd suggest mixing a little {off-white/bone/bleached bone/unbleached titanium/whatever your paint line calls it} with your main colors (probably 1:3 or 1:4), to make a naturally slightly warm highlight, and paint this on the extremities, edges, and ridges. For example, on Mischa, the shoulders, the top of the head, the top of the forearms, the billows in the cloth, the tops of the fuel canisters, and the knee. As you get better, you can do more layers of this, progressing, or you can stop, depending on how much detail you want.

I've got my old SLR that I learned on. It sucks batteries like nobody's business, but is fine if you're just using it to take pics. It has a decent macro, and fine res if you're not looking to take hi-def pics-- I'll sell it for little if, if you're interested.PM me if you are. Otherwise, the market does have a lot of options, these days. Other than macro, you should be fine with most models that aren't cheap. For lighting, just about any bulb will do, just get some lights you can position without a ton of work. Backdrop only needs to be some white paper. After getting a camera, the next thing I'd recommend is a tripod: this can be a small one, but make sure it has some weight or can be weighted. A tripod with no weight is useless-to-bad, as you don't want your tripod tipping over and breaking your camera.

So, the progress I've made was putting down the second coat of spackel. It was feeling a bit plain, so I added patches of brick texture, and I'll be putting a thin third layer of spackel around the exposed bricks to make them appear slightly recessed, showing from under the cement (or whatever).For this update, I decided to try feeling out around how many models would comfortably fit on the table, and am pretty happy with it.This project has involved a lot of trying stuff out, and feeling what works. My initial idea of a metal walkway started to feel a bit flimsy with the gradually more solid structure of the tunnels. I'm thinking wood with metal reinforcement (balsa and plasticard). Another shot of the overall form. The flash on white sort of blew out the detail, but I like the elevation, and think that it will work well with the catwalk, though I'm not sure how many ladders I'll need, for gaming purposes. Testing the scale, also a good shot of the texture. I sanded out the "strokes" but left a lot of the uneven bits, as I think they'll shade nicely. A shot of some of the more prominent brickwork. The bricks are a little large, but I'm fine with that. As far as suspension of disbelief in Malifaux, I can only assume that oversized bricks won't be the worst offender. This last one also shows the elevation (in the background) a little better.