CannonFodder Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 (edited) Well I glued my Large Steampunk Arachnids, and if you saw my other thread you'll see it was a little frustrating. On my second one I broke down and bought some glue accelerant\catalyst. But I never realized until afterwards the glue dries differently. Normally glue evaporates and the residue hardens. But with the catalyst you glue does not have a chance to evaporate, it hardens within 5-10 seconds. Basically you put you glue on, you give it a quick spritz (smell like rubbing alcohol). and you can let go after second and you have 3-4 seconds to move it around before it fully hardens. normally I'm not fussy about my models, I've recently dropped my painting quality to a decent table top quality, in order to get speed. (I prefer a painted army instead of a half well painted army) But I find the fact that the extra glue covers some details that even though I don't spend too much time painting, I'd rather see and have. Just thought I'd pass this on to other before they try it. FYI, the 2 legs at 1-2 o'clock on the regular glue spider also had a little accelerant used. and for curiosity sake, both spiders have a metal rod going into the thorax holding it up. Left: With glue accelerant Right: Only glue Edited January 5, 2012 by CannonFodder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonn Agram Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 my arachnid is somewhere over the Atlantic about now (I hope... it took him 10 days to get from Miami to NY :angryfire) and your two topics are not something I look forward to... since I have the accelerant, I guess I'll just have to make sure I use the glue really sparingly... use a pin to put a small dot on the leg... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rascally Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 I sometimes am able to remove some of the excess hardened glue. If you can't wipe it off before it all sets, a scalpel will sometimes do the trick. However, it can't always be done without cracking the glue and leaving you needing to do it all again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tattyted Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 the other thing about accelerant is that the bond is significantly weaker and much, much, more brittle than just letting the glue dry normally. It has its uses but is far from brilliant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tattyted Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 In UK, loctite do a new superglue called powerflex which has a bit of give to it and is very good for small bits. Plus it comes as a gel so is easy to apply very accurately. Don't know what it is called (or if available) in other countries. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Webmonkey Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 Loctite super glue,.. gel control. .14oz (4g). Comes in a grey bottle with blue squeezable sides. (kinda looks like a wierd little space ship or something). It bonds metals just as well as plastics, and you won't have to get all that "overspray" from the accelerant on your models. Just a small dab where you need it,.. hold the two pieces together,.. count to ten. Done. It'll still be a bit plyable for a few minutes if minor tweaks are needed. (be careful though, this stuff bonds skin instantly). If a little does squeeze out of the cracks, just use the end of a toothpick or whatever to clean up the edges. This stuff is fantastic. If you haven't tried it yet, I suggest investing in a bottle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
striker8 Posted January 5, 2012 Report Share Posted January 5, 2012 I use the GS trick for situations like this. Mix up a little bit of GS and pinch off a tiny bit and roll into a ball, put a bit of glue on the point of contact for both parts, place the GS ball on one piece over the glue and press together. Since the GS will at this hold the parts in position enough for a little manipulation without falling apart you can quickly use something to scrap any of GS/glue that ooze out and then the catalytic reaction between the two will speed up the setting time of both. Word of caution though the GS will bond to the glue almost immediately so care must be used if you try to upscale this technique for larger parts or things with a large surface area joint. This technique seems to render a bond that sits between just glue and being pinned and can even be used if you're pinning to render an even stronger joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rascally Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Filla Glu also do a Kicka pen which you apply to the surfaces prior to gluing. It speeds up drying time but has not, as far as I've been able to observe, weakened the bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LonelyPath Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 Have you thought of using Filla-Glu instead? That stuff hs a rubber mix in the glue which also acts as a filler, plus it forms a very strong bond and requires less glue. It also sets in seconds so you have to work fairly quickly. I use it on all my metal and resin models and often saves having to pin parts. Also on resin, get a Kicka Pen as recommended by rascally, they are great at removing any left over mold release residue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 I prefer a single bead of polystyrene (the kind you find in electronics packing material and foam cups). It acts as an accelerant and filler all in one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yazza Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 I prefer a single bead of polystyrene (the kind you find in electronics packing material and foam cups). It acts as an accelerant and filler all in one. could you expand on that? what do you do with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted January 9, 2012 Report Share Posted January 9, 2012 could you expand on that? what do you do with it?Well... 1. Break down a piece of Styrofoam into individual beads. Which is pretty easy to do since they're not held together very well to begin with. 2. Tiny bit of superglue in the socket you're gluing. Tiny bit of superglue on the arm/leg/horn/spike/whatever going into the socket. 3. Add 1 bead of Styrofoam to the socket. 4. Press in arm/etc, and hold for anywhere between 5-20 seconds (depending on the glue/foam combination). (Hold it AWAY from your face, and don't breathe the fumes. They smell and are probably not good for you.) 5. Give about 5-10 minutes to completely dry, and scrape off the excess. What actually happens is there is some sort of chemical reaction between polystyrene and the cyanoacrylate-based glue. The foam will break down and expand filling any gaps, and harden with the glue. It doesn't really accelerate the drying process, but the piece will set a little faster. (And it's the cheapest gap filler I know of.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LonelyPath Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Well... 1. Break down a piece of Styrofoam into individual beads. Which is pretty easy to do since they're not held together very well to begin with. 2. Tiny bit of superglue in the socket you're gluing. Tiny bit of superglue on the arm/leg/horn/spike/whatever going into the socket. 3. Add 1 bead of Styrofoam to the socket. 4. Press in arm/etc, and hold for anywhere between 5-20 seconds (depending on the glue/foam combination). (Hold it AWAY from your face, and don't breathe the fumes. They smell and are probably not good for you.) 5. Give about 5-10 minutes to completely dry, and scrape off the excess. What actually happens is there is some sort of chemical reaction between polystyrene and the cyanoacrylate-based glue. The foam will break down and expand filling any gaps, and harden with the glue. It doesn't really accelerate the drying process, but the piece will set a little faster. (And it's the cheapest gap filler I know of.) I hope you are wearing some form of breathing apparatus and eye protection when using that method as even if you cannot smell the fumes, they are quite dangerous no matter how small in quantity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 I hope you are wearing some form of breathing apparatus and eye protection when using that method as even if you cannot smell the fumes, they are quite dangerous no matter how small in quantity. Nah. I'm in the Army, I've eaten/inhaled/been injected with worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonn Agram Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 you're the kind of guy who uses his hands to hold the drill bit when pinning also, right? pin vice and dremmels are for whimps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Pinning? No, I just stare a hole into the mini. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonn Agram Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 and love the smell of polystyrene in the morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nilus Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 Nah. I'm in the Army, I've eaten/inhaled/been injected with worse. Yeah and that was probably in the mess hall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nilus Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 As far as Glue accelerant goes I don't use it normally but I always pack it in my emergency repair bag. I find the bond generally doesn't last forever but it great for quick fixed right before a game. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slimnoid Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 In every experience with accelerant, it's practically ruined plastic models and made cleaning metal ones a huge pain in the rear. Pinning is a better, stronger alternative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omnivision6 Posted January 10, 2012 Report Share Posted January 10, 2012 lick your model. seriously, use a bit a saliva and it speeds up the drying process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kuffdaddy Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 In UK, loctite do a new superglue called powerflex which has a bit of give to it and is very good for small bits. Plus it comes as a gel so is easy to apply very accurately. Don't know what it is called (or if available) in other countries. Could you post a link to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kuffdaddy Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Is this it? http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/4/3/sg_g_peasy/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-Power-Easy-Gel-Control.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diehard Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 Pinning? No, I just stare a hole into the mini. He's the Chuck Norris of modeling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backno Posted January 11, 2012 Report Share Posted January 11, 2012 The problem with using an accelerant on metal mini is the bond becomes much more brittle. If you are going to use it make sure you are pinning the mini and put the glue on one part and the accelerant on the other. This has given the best overall results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.