poulpox Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 I'd play the 1" rule: within 1" of the obstacle, there's no LoS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 (edited) I like that rule. However with Sholto's scenery, even with it you get situations were it's really hard to work out. How does a model under a bridge work? Or as we had last game models on slopes so they are not even on definite Ht scenery. It comes down to do you want to do complex mathmatics when the situation is not standard, or just get down and see whether the shot is reasonable. Edited January 9, 2011 by Ratty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 For complex terrain like this (read that as realistic) I would use a combination of the "true LOS" and the "Mali" system. Essentially, build a few Ht rulers out of some transparent plastic for the Mali system (gonna need six, 2 for 30mm, 2 for 40mm, and finally 2 for 50mm bases). From the correct marking on the Ht rulers (on the attacker and target) you can then use True LOS. Probably a bit more involved then neccesary but would provide for more realism (which it seems like you all are going for). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted January 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 (edited) My gaming group always plays with plenty of terrain, and from the very beginning we found the Malifaux LOS system uncomfortable. Coming from 40k, we found TLOS easier to work with. With this level of terrain, TLOS is almost essential, and that is certainly how I have played my games on it to date - not through any design on my part, just because that is the practice we have fallen into. EDIT: You can see a batrep on this table with loads more photos here. Edited January 9, 2011 by Sholto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talishko Posted January 11, 2011 Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 This table is amazing. The more I look at your terrain the more I think that paper terrain is the way to go. I use foamboard anyway but texturing and painting up the surface makes the work so much longer; I might steal your ideas and make terrain like this too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted January 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2011 By all means, have a go! This stuff is so easy to make (compared to normal terrain methods) that even a couple of local players who (1) can't be bothered making terrain and (2) hate cardstock modelling are planning sets of their own. I have the second of my planned three dock tiles done, and here it is:- Just the water effect to add. To help support the pier on the right I cut a length of PVC pipe, and just rolled a wall texture round it. Quick and easy. On the other side of the lock gates in the middle of the piece is another lock gate on the back of the tile. This lets the dock pieces tie in with the canal pieces, giving an outlet to the canal system. The third dock tile is going to be something pretty special, and I can't wait to get started on it A question - any suggestions for making a hinged door out of two pieces (or more) of foamcore? I thought about using a wooden skewer as a long hinge, but maybe others have better ideas? After this, I have some plans for the sewers. I don't want to do them the same way as the Streets, and I will let you see how that goes, although it is likely to be a few weeks away yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted January 12, 2011 Report Share Posted January 12, 2011 Good hinges can be made from sections of platic model railroad "Pipe" and thin metal wire. This just keeps looking better and better, World Works should sponsor you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daemonkin Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 @Sholto: I hate you! I have taken the plunge, ordered the labels from ebay and went to Wickes' site for cork tiles but they have none in stock and won't have for a few weeks. So now (tomorrow probably) will head down to B&Q and get some MDF cut to size. Going for 6mm thickness unless you suggest a thicker (9mm) option? So I'll probably start a log to document my progress. Getting tired of playing on the same surface - it is 3 4'x2' sections so need to mark out a 3'x3' playing area each time. 1 side is all grassed (GW old static grass mat, PVA'd down) and the other is textured and sprayed to resemble a road pattern that is modular. It works well for 40K or Epic and looks OK for Malifaux and other games but I want (need?) something like what you have done so I'll be asking lots of questions in my thread once it's started. Would definitely appreciate any comments you have. D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 @OmenBringer - good tip on the plastic rods. I have those @Daemonkin - you're better going for MDF, I think. Much heavier, so less portable, but much more durable and you can always add legs to them if you want to raise ground level (eg. to add a sewer section). Spray paint them black before you stick the labels on, and I am looking forward to seeing what you do with your build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daemonkin Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 @Sholto: Thanks. My current boards are MDF also (prob 12mm) so I know the weights are different. I also have the Himmelveil and some other stuff from WWG downloaded (last year before the Terraclips announcemnet) so I'll be set once the labels arrive. B&Q are pretty good with their cutting service. I think you get a number of free cuts but I'll only need a few to get my 9 12" square tiles D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted January 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Just watch for the effects of blade width. Most standard sizes of MDF panel (in the UK at least) are not big enough to give you as many 12" panels as you might think. They are just too short/ not wide enough. Factoring in blade width you can wind up a few mm short of 12". Probably not all that bad in the scheme of things, but worth bearing in mind. Before you put your label paper in the printer, make sure your printer actually prints at the right size. Most do but it seems some do not, and need tweaking. There is a thread on the WWG Tips and Tricks forum about this. Also note that the 6" wall sections do not produce 6" walls if printed at 100%. I might have mentioned this in a previous post. If you want 6" walls, scale them by 114%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daemonkin Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Thanks. The MDF boards are probably large enough for me to get the 9 tiles at exactly the right size and some leftover pieces. Will see what the guys say when I ask for exactly 12" lengths. D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nathan Caroland Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 No clue how I missed this. Wonderful work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgraz Posted February 5, 2011 Report Share Posted February 5, 2011 It's just more and more shocking as you go through the pages. I'm moving to Scotland!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
captaincarrot Posted February 7, 2011 Report Share Posted February 7, 2011 And to think I get to play most of my games on that board :bounce: It is a work of art Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alphapocalypse Posted March 2, 2011 Report Share Posted March 2, 2011 That terrain looks great. If you are looking for hinges try the RC Air plane section at your local hobby store. Here is a link to give you an idea of what to look for. I have a pack of the middle ones with the metal pin and plan to put them into a set of terrain I am currently building Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenbull Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 @Sholto: today I bought me 2 part clear resin ( not Envirotex, but something similar ). Did a test on a watertile, and it seems like the resin gets through the top layer soaking the adhesive paper all the way through... Just a quick question: do you treat the printed adhesive paper before applying the resin? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted March 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 If you are looking for hinges try the RC Air plane section at your local hobby store. Here is a link to give you an idea of what to look for. Thanks- I will take a look. @Sholto: today I bought me 2 part clear resin ( not Envirotex, but something similar ). Did a test on a watertile, and it seems like the resin gets through the top layer soaking the adhesive paper all the way through... Just a quick question: do you treat the printed adhesive paper before applying the resin? The Envirotex appears to soak into the label paper, although I did not notice any ill effects. There was one piece where I had applied Vallejo Still Water first, and then applied Envirotex over the top. The Still Water sealed the label paper, so the colour of the water underneath is slightly lighter than in the unsealed sections, but it is not too noticeable. One thing the Envirotex does (and, I imagine any other resin would do) is to add some serious structural stability to the tiles. It forms a flexible but very strong sheet, and glues the joins together better than any PVA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 After a very long hiatus, I finally made my third and last 12" riverfront tile for this set. The idea is that this is 1/2 of a large bridge over the main river through Malifaux. The gates are needed as the Guild close the bridge to all traffic on the 9pm curfew, to prevent Neverborn moving freely across the river. This was by far the most ambitious of my fixed builds so far, as the bridge surface is a curve rather than a straight ramp, and the bridge sides are curved inwards as well, making the railings rather tricky to cut out of foamcore, seeing as they needed to curve in two different planes at once! I think I pulled it off, though, and here it is, by itself and then along with the two other riverfront pieces:- The water effect has not been added to the tile base. The gates hinge. I just cut through the foamcore leaving only the card on one side uncut, and it works very well. I embedded magnets in the doors, so they lock closed I doubt I will make anything else for this terrain set, now. With this last piece I have gone way (way) beyond my original aim of quick and easy terrain, as this single piece took three nights work and a heap of planning. Still, can't wait to get a game on it this Saturday Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenbull Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 As usual, simply amazing!:notworthy I really hope you do make other pieces in the future. At first i didn't see the double curve you were talking about. It's difficult to see on the pictures. Would never even consider to try that with the foamcore! But you pulled it off big time. As a small sidenote: I finally got hold of Envirotex Lite and it works out perfect now. All my troubles were due to using the wrong products. People be warned when you try glossy water! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted March 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Thanks, and you are right about the Env Lite. Stellar stuff. Here is another shot of the completed piece to show the side elevation, and then some shots of the WIP that will show the curves off better (I sound like I'm talking about my sweet ride, here ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canada Steve Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Guys can anyone tell me how big a playing area each of the Terraclips boxed sets gives you ? Would one box give say a 2' x 2' area ? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aka_hazard Posted March 25, 2011 Report Share Posted March 25, 2011 Guys can anyone tell me how big a playing area each of the Terraclips boxed sets gives you ? Would one box give say a 2' x 2' area ? Thanks I believe they have said that one box will do half a 3'x3' table so it should do a 2'x2' table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AdriftQuasar Posted March 31, 2011 Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 I just cannot get over how wonderful this looks. I can't believe I haven't stumbled across this type of terrain before. If I had when I started wargaming, I would have entire cities by now. This is so much better than buying plastic and resin kits. I can't wait to get started. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted March 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2011 Make sure and post some pics of your work Some final pics of the layout. That's it all done for now, and the next step is waiting for Terraclips Buildings (and maybe Sewers) to come out:- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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