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Water table questions


TheOldGoth
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I'm picking up the TTCombat Streets of Venice set to make a new 3'x3' Malifaux table. I've got my plywood, my foldable legs, and my magnets to make the building levels removable yet sturdy. However, I would like it to be a true water table, with canals full of resin-based water from edge to edge. I've never worked with resin though. Would it be better to build up the edge of the table with wood, or would hot gluing plexiglas to the edges work until the resin cures? Should I lightly tint the resin? Also, how best should I paint the underlayment to show the desired water effect?

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Good plan 

 

I’ve seen plenty of folk do plexus glass for the resin. As long as you’re using a 2 part resin that dries hard it should be good. 
 

Resins take tints well and would work if you’re if you’re going for dirty canal water. Try a test piece for colour first. A little goes a long way for colour. 
 

I’d definitely paint the edges of canals first to give them a mucky look. Just darken them up. Could even put some gloss in places to look damp above the water layer. 

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Just be aware there are lots of different water effect resins. I have 2 or 3 different types, from single part mixes to melt and set as they cool to 2 part mixes that will slowly cure. 

I've seen some good effects that start with a painted base,  then different levels of tint in the resin going from darker to lighter as you go up, but thats a lot of effort and probably not something to try for the first time on a big table. 

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Thanks for the advice. I usually do modular tables that I break up into 12" x12" squares, but this will be my first dedicated table with a central theme. Well, my first of five. This one is the canal table to represent an upscale section of Malifaux City, then I'll do an Old West style table, a ruined part of town, a Bayou table, and an ancient forest, complete with Titania's throne. 🙂

What can I say? When your wife tells you to make Malifaux gaming tables, you make Malifaux gaming tables! I plan on posting work in progress and completed shots once all the pieces come in.

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You dont necessarily need to build up the edges unless you plan on pouring it on real thick. While that definitely works I would recommend using a sponge painting technique to create an artificial depth on the base material (would recommend priming black) then applying the 2 part epoxy over the top with a foam brush in two or three coats. I can post some pictures of what I am talking about later if you are interested. It helps to tint the 2 part epoxy with some mustard yellowish or sepia brownish ink to add some depth and murk up the water.

Also consider the recommendation for the plexiglass base material. Paint the underside with the same sponge technique but this time going from highlights to low lights (you can primer last in this application to darken things up but consider the color carefully), then seal with the two part epoxy applied with a foam brush. It will create the depth effect I believe you are looking for very rapidly. Once the bottom is completed then apply some Water Effect strategically on the top side to make the water "move".

Now when you get to those other boards I can share my easy basing recipe if you are interested.

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Agree with Omenbringer. Have looked at a lot of water diorama videos and 90% of selling it is the underpainting and adding stuff like ripples and foam. 

Depending on how deep you want the canals you could use something like mod podge or gloss gel medium in a lot of thin layers. Takes ages but you don't have to mess around with epoxy and can add texture and stuff as you go. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I ordered the terrain set (yay!) which is coming in from the UK in six weeks (boo!). I'll post a work in progress. I think I figured out a good method for the project. I'll be wrapping the edges in plexiglas for a straight pour. I'm going to hot glue the buildings to the base, build up the muck/grime on the sides of the buildings to just slightly above water level, and paint the remaining areas brown and green matching the flow pattern. Then we'll do a quick pour of 2-part epoxy and a LONG cure. I may cannibalize some old models to put some "canal monsters" in the water. I've got the 3' x 3' base, and a nice set of folding legs to keep it portable. 

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