Culven

I have no issues with the cards. I think that they are a compromise of multiple issues including the maount of info needed to be included, legibility, and product packaging. Personally, I just laminate my cards (and only one for each model type). This makes them flat, durable, and cheaper than laminating every card. It also means I don;t need to find sleeves for them. When it comes to marking wounds, I just use wound counters. this also solves the problem of trying to remember which card is for which model when there are multiples of a single sculpt. I agree with the legibility comment, it can be rather difficult to read the numbers. Suits just need some familiarity with the new art to be read across the table. As to the Weak/Moderate/Severe, it is actually marked. Each card has a dot next to the number which indicates the W/M/S status. Though, after a few games, most players will remember the ranges (1-5, 6-10, 11+). The problem is that, like all hardcopy rules, there is the potential of them becoming obsolete over time. At least Wyrd is trying to keep the rules updated through Errata and FAQs. Even better, the produced the rules manual which consolidated the rules with many of the early errata and FAQs. This is better rules support than I have seen from many other game companies, and I for one greatly appreciate it. Based on the past support, I would expect to see future updated Rules Manuals as well.

I prefer 1.5", 2", and 3" trays. Many of the smaller models will fit just fine in a 1" tray, but there is a chance that anything sticking out to the edge of the base or further will get bent. The 3" tray is nice for some of the larger models and will typically allow them to stand in the tray. The 2" tray is good for 40mm and 50mm base models that can lie down, and the 1.5" can take care of the 30mm based models without much worry. Overall, I would suggest one 3" tray, (2) 2" trays, and (3) or so 1.5" trays. Maybe (1) 1" tray for the little models.

If you want a full crew that does well in melee, go with Lilith. The Nephilim all rely on melee to generate the wounds that lead to Blood Counters. Also, I wouldn't consider the Nephilim to be overpowered, and they aren't nearly as annoying to play against as Pandora, so there should be fewer complaints from competent players. Those who make poor tactical choices will always complain.

In general, Malifaux tends to use tokens for three things: counters that models can move over, terrain features that models can't move over, and status indicators. For a nice presentation, the terrain features tend to work better as actual models on bases. For things like corpse counters, flat counters tend to work better as they allow models to move over them. For status, tokens are nice to have, but not a necessity. Bits of paper, coins and so on will work just as well, though they may not be as visually pleasing.

I have been playing games for many, many years, and over that time, I have seen games come and go. Sometimes, it is permanent. Many times, especially with games with as many attractive qualities as Malifaux, it is just temporary. If Malifaux seems to have died off, one of the best ways to revive it is to have at least one regular opponent and a regular time and place to play in a game store or the like. Having a set time is the important bit so that players know when they will be able to find players. Also, I would advise caution with leagues. They seem to be a great idea for ensuring players come out, but depending on how it is structured, it may lead to player burnout. This is what happened in my area. The league essentially encouraged players to play as many games as possible, resulting in those with the most free time gaining a considerable advantage, and the rest to try to make up the difference. It just became too much. Fortunately, there has been a break since the last league and Malifaux is picking up again, albeit at a more casual level.

I just played a game with Tuco and Lelu/Lilitu. Honestly, Tuco doesn't have a lot of synergy with the Nephilim. He is only really useful if facing Family because he will be more likely to generate Blood Tokens. If you want a gerneralist force, I wouldn't take Tuco. So, you are pretty much left with Lilith and some Tots, Young, and maybe a Mature Nephilim. Then you will have mobility and some offensive capabilities able to handle most objectives. If you want Tuco, you should have him in addition to a 25 SS crew in case you are playing Perdita.

I believe that it is only the wood that moves. The Waldgeist then effectively moves with the trees by making a walk of the same distance. Think of it as the trees walking and the other models just stand there.

Thanks for the suggestion, but I already ordered and received some 28mm Plains Indians from Britannia Miniatures. I eneded up paying $50 for about 9 mounted figures and 7 on foot. They are too short, and way out of proportion (they may have been the models for the heads on Easter Island), but they were cheap and will be fine as proxies.

I am currently using the idea that small breaches have opened all over the place, pulling in natives from different tribes which work together for the greater good. With roughly similar views on life and spiritual matters, it would only take a little effort for them to develop a new, native people-inspired identity which can be tweeked a bit to fit into the Malifaux world. I am tending to stay with the Native American Plains tribes mostly because of their use of horses which wasn't typical of native tribes from elsewhere in the world. Since they are all non-affiliated with any of the major factions, I have gone Outcast using Affinity [Lilith] so that they can be hired by her. I figure that many native tribespeople would view Lilith as a "Mother Nature" type of figure, and she would tolerate them when she sees that they aren't there for greedy purposes, but trying to live in balance with her world. At least that is my initial intent.

I REALLY wish you would all stop reading my mind about a Native American inspired crew. I have been working on some rules for one for a month or so. When I get everything ironed out, I will post the rules for feedback.

For miniature games in general, Wyrd miniatures, or Malifaux? For mini games in general, there are many games that still don't use stat cards. For Wyrd, they started just making miniatures, but none of those have any rules in Malifaux other than as special scenario models. For Malifaux, no they have always included stat cards.

My games (35 SS, typically) tend to run about 2 hours.

I would suggest that you use Guild Guard, Guard Captains (you can have 2), and Asutringers. Lucius is really about enhancing Guild Guard (the model type) within range and then ordering them to make Strikes with their increased stats. The Guild Guard have a positive twist on their damage, which can be quite useful.

I have been working on an idea that I have for a new Crew to add to Malifaux, and I am now to the point that I am looking for some rules to make sure they are somewhat balanced. I have tried searching for similar threads, but I have found nothing. Thus, I am starting this thread. So, I am curious if anyone else has tried to make up their own rules as well, and if anyone has any suggestions for balancing the models. At this point, it seems like it is really going to be an issue of making sure they "feel" right and playtesting with my friends. I have a fairly well developed idea of the theme and background for this crew, so I should be able to stick with the theme to try to avoid being overpowered. Also, I am wondering what the folks at Wyrd would think of the idea of players submitting homemade, playtested crews. I'm sure most players would love to see their ideas added to the Malifaux world. I appreciate any suggestions.

You are asking whether Insignificant models can be the target/objective of certain Strategies and Schemes. The answer is "Yes, unless the Strategy or Scheme states 'nominate a non-Insignificant enemy model . . .'." Being Insignificant typically only prevents the model from achieving Strategies and Schemes, not being the objective of one.

With Terraclips, it has become very easy to build multi-level terrain, but it also leads to some problems to which I have yet to find a solution. The main issue essentially comes down to, "should the playing surface be limited to 9 square feet, or just limited to a 3 foot square?". If we were to use a 3 foot square with 3 full levels, we now have a table that is three times the area of a standard 3 foot square outdoor table. This can severely hinder certain crews while providing a huge advantage to Spirit crews. So, what is the best solution? Should the terrain be limited by total area of all levels or only by terrain footprint? Or does someone have a more elegant solution?

I have a Piggie that likes her big hat with a bow. Nobody knows where she got it, and nobody can get it away from her.

The Nightmare Editions are a different situation. They are just alternate models for something that one can get from the standard product line. Right now, Teddy can only be obtained through a random insert. If the "limited edition" Puppet Wars figures are never released in the standard product line, then getting them will require a rather large monetary investment. If they eventually become available for purchase, then they are more of "preview" figures, which won't irk the majority of players nearly as much.

I didn't have them break, but I have some tricks I use to reinforce such pieces. One is to apply a layer of Thin superglue. This is the glue with the consistancy of water, not medium or thick superglue. This will coat the metal without obscuring too much detail. The other trick for long chains or other thin bits, like the Necrotic Machine's front legs, is to bend them just a little so that they actually touch the model at another point where it can be glued together. Typically, long, thin bits that aren't supported are just waiting to be snagged on something and broken.

It is probably yout own fault. How many times have you been told not to play baseball indoors with piglets as your ball?

All of the stories in the new book are good. The way that Hoffman's power and control have developed is great, but then I was disappointed to see the "Precious Cargo" rule on his Avatar. It just didn't seem to fit. Oh well, I still like the artwork, and I am awaiting the model's release. On a tangental note, I have a friend who is blind (as is his brother, genetic degenerative issue) who plays CCGs and actively played GW's Battlefleet Gothic, with only minor assistance. It was just an example of how games can accomodate players of all abilities.

For smaller games, I find the Henchman Reserve to be more useful for buying more models, especially considering that Collodi's Reserve is almost 1/3 of the total for the game. So I would go for the second list with Collodi leading. However, I would drop one of the Stitched Together for more Wicked Dolls.

The Stiched Together just feel slow because of the way that the Marionettes can make Collodi bounce across the table and the Wicked Dolls teleport right to him. Also, I haven't used Zoraida yet, so I don't know how much she can help. I've been meaning to use her, but it is jus too much fun having all of those Dolls in a 30 or 35 SS game.

I have been playing Collodi for a while, and I have been somewhat unimpressed with the Stiched Together, mpstly due to their inability to keep up with the rest of the crew. So, I tend to leave them out. If I have enough soulstones, I prefer Zoraida, Doppelganger, Collodi, Widow Weaver, Marrionettes and Wicked Dolls. Zoraida, Doppelganger, and Widow Weaver can all make more Wicked Dolls, all of which can teleport to Collodi, who I tend to have closer to the enemy with Dolls between him and them. Then I just swarm the enemy models, wounding and poisoning them so that they don't last too long, especially when the dolls have Flurry or Fast.

No. I am still going to make a spider along the lines of the art in the book, I just think the GW model, being plastic, will be easier to cut apart and reposition. I am debating whether I want it walking more upright and whether she will be wearing the dress.