parich Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 (edited) I got into Malifaux just before the release of M2E and have been loving the new plastic sculpts. They're really what drew me to the game more than anything. I've never had much luck as a gamer - can't seem to wrap my mind around strategy - so I just collect and play with the models I think look coolest! I'm about halfway through the Pandora box and I've got to say the models are absolutely amazing! I don't normally dig on anything with sculpted fire, but these are making me reconsider. Definitely some of my favorites from any range! I'm pretty happy overall with the final product though think my highlights could have gone a little further and I'm terrible at filling gaps. Any comments and tips are welcomed and appreciated! (botched adding the photos - trying to fix this now) Edited December 26, 2013 by parich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seb3110 Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 That does not work for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parich Posted December 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 Anyone know how to take a thread down lol? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crooked Grin Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 Anyone know how to take a thread down lol? Shame, I really would love to see a painted No Shelter Here crew. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted December 26, 2013 Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 ...and I'm terrible at filling gaps. Any comments and tips are welcomed and appreciated! Have you looked at the "Liquid Green Stuff" that Citadel makes? It is fairly good at filling in small gaps, cracks and smoothing mold lines. It is also fairly easy to work with since it is a brush on product (so no mixing or special tools required). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parich Posted December 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2013 Thanks for the suggestion Omenbringer! I've heard of liquid green stuff but never tried it. I've tried using the normal putty kind but have some difficulty working with it. Glad to know that the liquid may make it easier. Also, any advice on getting these photos loaded? The originals were taken on my camera, and I just tried again with pictures from my phone (both sets saved as jpg files). The system keeps telling me that the file type isn't supported though. Checked and I'm also under the max size for the file. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_was_like_you Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 (edited) Also, any advice on getting these photos loaded? The originals were taken on my camera, and I just tried again with pictures from my phone (both sets saved as jpg files). The system keeps telling me that the file type isn't supported though. Checked and I'm also under the max size for the file. There's been an issue with photos lately. Try saving them to photobucket (or a similar site) and sharing them that way? As far as filling gaps, did you use liquid cement to assemble your models? It melts the pieces together, eliminating most, if not all gaps. Just make sure you dry fit all pieces, trimming them down as need be, prior to gluing them together. The brand I recommend is the light blue one from Testors, which can be found in any hobby store / department that sells model cars. Edited December 27, 2013 by i_was_like_you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Thanks for the suggestion Omenbringer! I've heard of liquid green stuff but never tried it. I've tried using the normal putty kind but have some difficulty working with it. Glad to know that the liquid may make it easier. No worries, hopefully it does what you need it to. Another suggestion is to use some watered down "Milliput". The trick is in controlling the consistency, but once you have that right it performs very well for gap filling and can be smoothed with a brush (and dries much harder than the Liquid Green Stuff. Also, any advice on getting these photos loaded? The originals were taken on my camera, and I just tried again with pictures from my phone (both sets saved as jpg files). The system keeps telling me that the file type isn't supported though. Checked and I'm also under the max size for the file. It might be due to your low post count (I seem to recall that new forumites go thru a brief approval period in the attempt to control spam). Other than that I_Was_Like_You offers a great option as well. Photobucket is easy and has a larger space for hosting pics. As far as filling gaps, did you use liquid cement to assemble your models? It melts the pieces together, eliminating most, if not all gaps. Just make sure you dry fit all pieces, trimming them down as need be, prior to gluing them together. The brand I recommend is the light blue one from Testors, which can be found in any hobby store / department that sells model cars. This is a great suggestion for assembling the plastics though you could also try the brush on stuff. I find the brush on stuff a bit easier to control (read ass avoid getting where I dont want it) than the tube stuff though it might take a little longer to get a really strong bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daddy4count Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 I found the liquid green stuff worked really well for gap filling... it's different, odd, hard to get used to. But once I got the hang of globbing it on and smoothing it out I was impressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parich Posted December 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 Thanks again for all the great tips! I've uploaded some pictures to photobucket (added some of my Tannen and Graves too) until I can post here directly. I'd love to hear what people think of my attempts at plaid as well as tips for people who've had success with this in the past. I've never done any freehand work before and think this came out okay but that the colors could have been a bit stronger in the pattern. Thoughts? http://s995.photobucket.com/user/patrickandrew0860/library/Malifaux%20Neverborn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_was_like_you Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 This is a great suggestion for assembling the plastics though you could also try the brush on stuff. I find the brush on stuff a bit easier to control (read ass avoid getting where I dont want it) than the tube stuff though it might take a little longer to get a really strong bond. I use a pin or toothpick to apply it, to minimize it from going everywhere...Just had dashed out the response and forgot to add that little tidbit. [I really just need to have a sticky note of plastic cement recommendation to copy paste as the need arises, which due to the plastics and new players, is more and more often.] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daddy4count Posted December 27, 2013 Report Share Posted December 27, 2013 I went away from plastic glue after the first time I had to cut apart a mini I assembled incorrectly... love the gel super glue. But the next plastic Wyrd minis I get I'm picking up some Zap plastic again. I can see how it would have been far better / easier to assemble that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parich Posted January 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 (edited) Think I got my photo posting problem fixed! Edited January 10, 2014 by parich 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemissary Posted January 10, 2014 Report Share Posted January 10, 2014 Wow! the muted tones on this crew look amazing! I really like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BabyFreak6 Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Wow... Love them! Excellent work!! I've had an unfinished Poltergeist and Sorrows sitting on my table for the past two weeks. Originally, I was going for a white to black fade but my inexperience is proving this difficult. Any tips for a newbie on how you blended them so nicely? Krystal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoeIsMe Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 wow those are really nice! I just did something very simiar on my sorrows and poltergeist...but nowhere near that well blended...im sorta envious... --Woe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zFiend Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Beautiful! How did you paint them like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parich Posted January 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Thanks for all your comments guys! As for the process, I always lay down my base skin tone over the whole model with an airbrush (my airbrush isn't very nice and the needle is huge so I can't use it for any detail) before brush painting the highlights up and moving on to the other parts of the mini. I think that makes it easier to put on multiple thin layers later on. I also think that using the skin tone as a sort of base cote for everything else helps tie the colors in to make the models look unified. To help mute the colors for the Poltergeist and Sorrow and tie the bottom and top together a little more, I mixed the grey skin tones into the purple for the fire effect. I left the greys in as I worked up in lightness, then left the grays out using pure purple going to white for the final highlights. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemissary Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 Ahh... I have never thought of using an airbrush to put a tone over the whole model first. I must try this. I'm going to use the Ghoul Skin/Moldy Skin/Bloodless Skin triad from Reaper paints for all the skin on my Rezzers models. I'm not sure how Reaper paints act in an Airbrush though. I wish I had seen this before I worked out the color styles for my bases and the theme for my crews. I would have had to steal the purple-gray idea. It is just too awesome. I use a purplish gray in some models already with the Dark elf skin reaper triad, but it doesn't have the very nice purple look that you have attained here. Thanks for sharing your technique/idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
star20 Posted January 11, 2014 Report Share Posted January 11, 2014 I can't give specifics, but I do know you're gonna have to dilute it. Airbrush paints are a lot thinner than normal paints. I think I saw you want a milk-like consistency for your airbrush. If you already know this, then feel free to ignore me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parich Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2014 Nemissary - I've been using and loving the Reaper triads since I started doing Malifaux a couple of month ago. They work really well in an airbrush, just play around with different amounts of thinner (I just use water) and pressure until you find what works for you and your brush/compressor. Like I said, I have a pretty cheap airbrush with a large needle I found for really at a great price on Craigslist (the original owner used it for makeup and it took some SERIOUS cleaning to get it working again) and end up using a higher pressure with very little water to get an even coat. And the Ghoulish Flesh triad is awesome by the way! It was little greener than I wanted for my Belles (I'll try and find some pics) so used a 1:1 mix of those three and the Fair Skin triad. Awesome paints all around! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
parich Posted January 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Wasn't sure about Candy on the sprue, but started to love the model as the paint went on. The face is absolutely tiny and was definitely a challenge, but I normally have a lot of trouble with hair, and thought the dirty blond turned out pretty well. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daddy4count Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 wow... I don't know if it's just the eyes or if the muted colors contribute to the overall feel... but that's the damn creepiest model I've ever seen, LOL Great job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickienogger Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Wow... exactly those words from above poster! Would we be able go get a pic with more lighting? I understand this id optimal for the atmospheric loo k but im curious to see how u painted jer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zFiend Posted January 22, 2014 Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 That is creepy. Very well done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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