how could something so simple get so complicated?

[Mister_Q]

+1 to plastic cement. It basically welds the two pieces together. You will rarely need to pin the plastic models - they are very light and the cement doesn't snap apart like superglue.

[Inquisitor Wall]

I've assembled a number of the new plastic models and I have found that the way the molds are designed, they assemble very easily. Each piece fits into the main model very well and are often close to seem less. While some pieces are small, with tweezers or patience the models go together very well and have not yet had any issues with breaking.

[mistercactus]

Mako, put the arrows in before assembling the rest (especially the arms). It'll make your life easier!

[i_was_like_you]

so you use plastic cement, like the GW plastic glue? NOOO I cannot wait a week!!!! LOL

Actually, I use Testors plastic cement, which can be found anywhere model cars can.

For application, always dryfit each piece first, trim any excess as needed, and use a toothpick to apply the smallest dab to one piece. Seat it in place quickly and firmly (not too rough), holding for at least a few seconds to let it melt into place. Less is definitely more, but don't be too stingy either. Make sure to dab off any excess, either with the other end of the toothpick or a swab. [unless the coton swab is too fluffy. Don't want fuzz in it.] I've assembled nearly every one of the new plastic models (for myself, and for a couple of friends) and haven't even used half of the tube of glue yet. With super glue, on the metals, I'd gone through several bottles, even though most of those models only needed an arm or leg glued on.

---------- Post added at 05:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:51 PM ----------

I've assembled a number of the new plastic models and I have found that the way the molds are designed, they assemble very easily. Each piece fits into the main model very well and are often close to seem less. While some pieces are small, with tweezers or patience the models go together very well and have not yet had any issues with breaking.

The worst seam I've had to deal with would have to be Yamaziko's arm / robe. Even after using an xacto knife he'll parallel to it, scraping both sides own even, slowly and carefully due to the folds, there's still a slight divot at the upper edge of it. Greenstuff coulda helped, but it looked fine until I got to painting her robe color on. By then, too late. Good enough for the table top.

The tentacle legged depleted also had problems at where the arms attach, but I kinda rushed on it, frustrated in the way the arms overlap and need to be attached together.

As far as breaking, I'd say be careful in how you remove them from the sprues, and be mindful of how you store / transport your models. The metal models didn't have much problem with just shoving into the foam trays, making room for themselves. The plastics may snap due to the constant strain.

[Grim]

Now that I have put her together, her more realistic scale is so out of place next to the Ronin, Viks, TAelor. Is it not possible to do more "heroic" scale miniatures using 3D renders? Looks like during Vanessa's relic hunting travels, a head shrinking witch was able to put a curse on her head LOL.

Somethings that I've done that I like: Not gluing the left arm with the staff and the left leg on permanently until after I paint them.

Somethings that I would have done : glue that thing on her back until AFTER I paint it and not before (getting to it with a brush with the pony tail in the way is going to be a pain for my poor painting skills).

Edited March 25, 2013 by Grim

[Mako]

I prefer the realistic stuff over the heroic stuff. Although I do agree that having both in a crew looks a little odd!

I suspect that the new plastics (and any rereleases) will be more naturally proportioned. In terms of head size and such, not necessarily other parts...

[Grim]

I dont think minis should be realistically proportioned. for the most part, you're playing from a bird's eye view of the models, so the head should be bigger. take for example Michaelangelo's David, he knew from what perspective people will be admiring his work so he adjusted accordingly. (which reminds me, I need to re-visit the Accademia in Florence *sigh*)

Edited March 25, 2013 by Grim

[Mister Shine]

But he made the head larger because it would be viewed from below, not above

[daemonkin]

The only difficulty lately I've had was with the Strongarm suit. His cables are just too fragile to attach - I just looked at one and it fell apart.

D.

[i_was_like_you]

Any tips on attaching he ponytail and making sure it stays on during gameplay?

Make sure you bond the ponytail to the handle of the sword and the back of her head? It worked for me.

Got mine last night. The only problem I seemed to have with her was her right hand. [And yes, it did go rogue, falling between the spaces of Malifaux Streets. Had to use tweezers to play Operation with it.] The problem was that the tab needed trimmed down even more to fit into the groove in her sleeve. Aside from that, I had the whole model assembled in the fifteen minutes or so I had before heading to work.

[THE_Dwarf]

I was amazed at how many parts Burt Jebson came in, I counted ten ... Ten pieces for gremlin lol but I used super glue. As going off what Omenbringer said about the plastic being different, it does have the look and feel of being different.

Plus I feel, like when building a wall, of the joins are stronger than the material and they break, the plastic it self cold break, not the joint. And so be a pain to glue. And the link to bring laying is if the mortar is stronger than the bring and it is under stress the bricks will break, and not the Mortar - and harder to fix ... I believe??

[i_was_like_you]

Brick and mortar have different makeups, different properties.

Plastic cement, when used correctly, causes the separate pieces to melt into one. If mortar did that, buildings would be seamless.

Sure, certain pieces can still break, but they're just as likely to break if you use superglue or if you melt them into place.

[SgtBrowncoat]

I have worked with the following plastic models:

Jacob Lynch

the Hungering Darkness

3 Illuminated

2 Beckoners

3 Guild Riflemen

3 Oiran

Mr. Tannen

Out of all of that, I had two troubling models:

One of the beckoners (I accidentally cut part of her neck when I was removing her head from the sprue)

The female Illuminated (Getting her head put together without instructions was a little challenging.)

Aside from that, and just generally being more careful, I have had little trouble. It gets easier as you go, I think. I would add that I very much prefer the plastics to the metal, both in terms of building and durability. I still can't keep the arms on my Coryphee models reliably, and if you have ever dropped a metal model, you know they never stay together. The plastic doesn't really need to be pinned, and even if you did decide to pin a plastic model, it is still easier than pinning metal.

Edited April 1, 2013 by SgtBrowncoat

[Inquisitor Wall]

I must say the Vanessa pony tail was a bit frustrating. It took a couple of tries before I was able to have it fit. However, it ws still less time and effort than having to pin sword Viki's hands. Both plastic and metal have their strengths and weaknesses.

[i_was_like_you]

I must say the Vanessa pony tail was a bit frustrating. It took a couple of tries before I was able to have it fit. However, it ws still less time and effort than having to pin sword Viki's hands. Both plastic and metal have their strengths and weaknesses.

Gave my sword Viki's hands the second point of contact treatment, gluing the handles of the swords to her thighs for more stability.

[theJudge]

I haven't had any real trouble with the new plastics to be honest. 1 Guild Rifleman had a broken strap on his rifle when I opened the box but that was about it.

One tip I would be when removing the parts from the sprue make sure you cut about 1cm away from the actual part itself. Then trim the part once you have it off the sprue. This way you reduce the risk of the part snapping while you clip it off the sprue.

Also, with the really small or fragile looking parts try cleaning the part while it is still on the sprue. That way you reduce the chance of it going flying across the room!

[i_was_like_you]

+1 to theJudge and similar advice that anyone else has given.

[Space Donkey]

I'll throw my hat into the ring for supporting Testor's plastic cement. I've assembled almost all of the plastic models and so far I haven't had any problems other than fiddly small bits and weird connections, like that damned depleted.

[theJudge]

Yes, plastic cement, while not essential, will greatly reduce any breakages at joints if used while assemling plastics.

Edited April 2, 2013 by theJudge

[jmp_mydog]

I seem to recall Wyrd recommends regular old CA Glue vice Plastic Glue (The material is different than GW's Plastics).

I use the Light blue non toxic Testors glue and it seems to work on the Wyrd stuff exactly the same as the GW stuff. You just have to be careful applying it because it "melts" the polystyrene plastic to create a super strong bond.

Brick and mortar have different makeups, different properties.

Plastic cement, when used correctly, causes the separate pieces to melt into one. If mortar did that, buildings would be seamless.

Sure, certain pieces can still break, but they're just as likely to break if you use superglue or if you melt them into place.

The nice thing about the plastic cement it if something breaks and you weld it back together it's usually a stronger bond.

You can follow my exploits with the new plastics here.

Edited April 5, 2013 by jmp_mydog

[i_was_like_you]

I'll throw my hat into the ring for supporting Testor's plastic cement. I've assembled almost all of the plastic models and so far I haven't had any problems other than fiddly small bits and weird connections, like that damned depleted.

The one hugging himself?

[FoeRender]

Il have to agree the models are in way to many pieces IMO . There very nice But I think its a bit of pain and hate the cleaning process now more than ever .

[eatenbypotchky]

The new plastics are a different type of plastic from many of the other miniature plastics on the market. Some plastic glues just won't allow for an adequate bond.

I highly recommend that you use either TAMIYA CEMENT or--if you are careful to not over glue--TESTORS LIQUID PLASTIC CEMENT. TESTORS can--if mishandled--melt your surface too much and may cause you to lose detail if you over-glue.

Also, I find that scoring and roughing up both surfaces that you wish to join will help you make a more permanent bond. For small parts--beards and wayward hands--use a tray while assembling and a pair of tweezers.

Toothpicks are fine for application but I find that a good needle is both reusable and tends to not hamper the flow of the glue onto the model.

This may seem like over-analysis and could be seen as slightly OCD but the results that I've experienced have made the extra effort worthwhile.

[decker_cky]

BTW, count me as someone that strongly supports the number of pieces that the models are in. If you start to limit that, you greatly lower the quality of poses you can make the miniatures in.

If anything, maybe Wyrd should have a starter set with a few slightly easier to work with crews, and a guide for how to work with Wyrd plastics.

[i_was_like_you]

While I agree with you on Malifaux models, did Puppet Wars have to follow suit?

If anything, PW was perfectly suited to just make one piece molds on nearly all of the sculpts, adding wings or comically oversized hypodermic needles as needed, just like the pewter ones.

It's meant to be a boardgame that uses a fun element from Malifaux in a silly, yet tactically sound way. The easier it is to play straight out of the box, the better.

Keep in mind, I'm a fan of the plastics, but I'm left wondering if maybe the company running the plastic side of things for them isn't giving them the most sound advice.