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north2silencej

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I bought the usual token set online. Comes with burning, poison, activated, paralyzed, a ton of stuff. To be honest, I find digging through to find the right token to be too time consuming. To be honest, I'd be much happier with a set of scheme markers (6, maybe 10 with the new masters and how many they can get out. Especially titania), a couple of blast markers, and some blank markers to just write the condition on in dry erase. Having them all is cool, but it takes too long for me to use them. 

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I personally don't like using tokens to mark things like burning, slow etc. Other people do. So I would recommend 0 tokens. 

You will need scheme markers. You may need scrap markers and corpse markers (all of these are 30 mm). As a rough guide I would suggest 10 scheme markers should give you plenty in most cases, but a few masters might want more. (I'm thinking Colette, Parker and Titania at the moment, but note Parker makes enemy scheme markers)

If you aren't using a crew that uses Corpse or scrap, you might be able to get away with none, but 5 of each isnt' a bad idea. 

You will need some strategy markers. This is probably 5 or so 30mm markers (count as head or squat or claim or informant as required) and 2 50 mm Markers.

Other common markers 2 50mm markers for blast, . beyond that it is model specific, so I can't recomened what you'd need. When I got relic Knights, I got a bag on Numbered 30 mm tokens and a card to write what each number is this game. This would reduce the number of markers you need to own, as you're not going to need all markers in all games. 

 

 

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I think I would initiate a token-anti-token reaction if I ever had to play a game with Adran.  :huh:  I can't play the game without using tokens to keep track of model activations, and I've got one of those jewelry bead organizer trays with a bunch of cardstock tokens arranged in it.

As far as Corpse and Scrap markers go, you really should be able to produce all of the markers your crew will generate when it dies.  It makes the game work a lot better that way, rather than expecting one player to guess what the other player is going to bring or use psychic powers to predict how many markers will be needed.

Because I made some of them from other components, at the moment I think I've got:

  • a dozen spin dial Burning tokens
  • a dozen spin dial Poison tokens
  • two dozen double sided Corpse/Scrap markers
  • six Fast tokens
  • six Slow tokens
  • six Reactivate tokens
  • six Focus tokens
  • six Defensive tokens
  • a dozen each of two colors of Scheme markers
  • a small bag of blank tokens made by using a 1" round button punch on some sheets of 80# cardstock, and a bag of 30mm round circles. 

I'm not fancy.  If I need a new marker, stick a blank token on the appropriate size plywood blank, and write on the token.  "Demand driven token production".  ;)

 

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21 minutes ago, solkan said:

I can't play the game without using tokens to keep track of model activations

I never thought of this until our henchman did it. It makes a game much faster when you can see at a glance on the table which models are activated. It's not hidden information, so there's no reason it should be hard to know.

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41 minutes ago, -Loki- said:

I never thought of this until our henchman did it. It makes a game much faster when you can see at a glance on the table which models are activated. It's not hidden information, so there's no reason it should be hard to know.

I started marking model activations after my second game, when I got confused on who had activated or not and turning the card sideways didn't help since after I looked at it I put it back the wrong way, ugh. I use the little colored beads you can find in the craft section, with flat bottoms so they don't roll everywhere. It's extremely visible who has or has not activated during the turn and helps me a ton. Being a visual, detail-oriented person this saves time, headache, and allows me to concentrate on what matters - the game. Highly recommended.

 

As for regular tokens I bought a starter pack that has four of the regular conditions (fast, slow, paralyzed, focus, defensive) and 4 of burning/poison with another marker with burning/poison+3 on it. It also has eight scrap, corpse, scheme markers, and two 50mm blasts. I can't remember the company offhand but they are great. I would only need more poison markers if I wanted to run McMourning in ressers or more burning markers for Kaeris. If I need more scheme or whatever you can just write on the back of them with your dry erase. Easy peasy.

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I sleeve my cards and write on the sleeves for conditions, wounds, and black the corner of the card when they activate. For markers, at the moment I'm using some of the colored clear bases with blank white stickers on them to write what they are on them, but I plan on picking up some laser cut stuff.

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10 hours ago, Rabbitknight said:

I sleeve my cards and write on the sleeves for conditions, wounds, and black the corner of the card when they activate. For markers, at the moment I'm using some of the colored clear bases with blank white stickers on them to write what they are on them, but I plan on picking up some laser cut stuff.

The issue is its not easy for your opponent to know so you end up needing to ask more often towards the end of the turn. Putting a little marker beside the model makes it clear for everyone.

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On 08/10/2016 at 8:47 AM, -Loki- said:

The issue is its not easy for your opponent to know so you end up needing to ask more often towards the end of the turn. Putting a little marker beside the model makes it clear for everyone.

Except when there are 5 models all so close together that their tokens get mixed together, and then you remember that the relevent markers are actually for the model that was pulled out of the brawl earlier and just forgot to move its markers along....

 

But seriously, I'm happy for my opponent to mark how they want, I mark how I want, and will try and accommodate their preference, but I don't find tokens quicker and clearer, I find they take longer, both to apply, and then to move around with the models, and often involve almost as many questions. But I have a good memory for game things, and used to "tap" activated cards, and have tried making 2 groups of cards on the table, those activated and those which haven't, which both work better for me than tokens have in the past.  

In  the end you'll need to work out what is best for you. So you might want to try bits of card or something first before you buy something you might not use.

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