Glue to make plastic model assemble possible?

[wizuriel]

So for ever model I've made from warhammer to warmahordes I've used the basic GW super glue and haven't had problems. Then I purchased the Som'er boxset :S.

 

Just from casual play I've had those gremlin legs break off so ridiciolously easy that I'm looking for a new solution for putting these models together. I've heard people mention various plastic glues work and some apparently don't because of how stupidly thin the models are. So anyone have any recommended glues that will work for super small gremlin feet?

[Bengt]

I don't have any gremlins (it's not a real faction after all!), but I glued my Ice Gamin with plastic glue, Revell Contacta Professional to be specific.

[Loveless]

I've been assembling Malifaux Models with basic GW Thin Plastic Glue (because apparently that was the only thing in the store when I went to get Plastic Glue) and have had no issues with pieces breaking off in regular use.

[spectrehorseman]

Tamiya Plastic Cement.

 

I swear by it. It's a lot cleaner too because you don't get that junk gel spillover from super glue.  You have to hold the pieces together longer but it actually melts the plastic, so in effect, you are welding the pieces together. This can be tricky on smaller parts because spillover can melt away detail if you're not careful.  Make sure you put cement on both pieces to be joined.  Push together hard so that a bead of plastic oozes out and hold it for about 15 seconds.

[96p]

Revell plastic glue is the best there is, with a syringe to apply the glue

 

 

Edit: for the best effect, apply glue, then press parts together with force (not too much though) then pull them a bit apart (you'll see filaments) and press back together, repeat once or twice. Be careful not to overdue it as the glue melts the plastic.

[Michaud]

I swear by something like Ambroid Pro Weld or Flex-i-file Plast-i-weld through a Touch-n-flow.  Super fast, super strong, and with the Touch-n-flow, goes exactly where I need it.

 

[Mr_Unclean]

I use zap-a-gap for everything. Should I not?

[SanguinaryDan]

It's all about what works for you MR_UNCLEAN.  

 

The plastic model glues, like Tamiya, are designed for this type of plastic.  They "weld" the parts together and then evaporate.  Unlike Zap which holds the pieces together with extra material.

[Jimbobovalsocks]

I think most of the plastic glues are the same stuff with a different branding. I wouldn't recommend using superglue on plastic models, you don't get such a strong joint. I use cheap 'brandless' plastic glue from 4d model shop in London. It comes in a giant pot that will last you for years and costs about 3 quid.

[Bengt]

I think most of the plastic glues are the same stuff with a different branding. I wouldn't recommend using superglue on plastic models, you don't get such a strong joint. I use cheap 'brandless' plastic glue from 4d model shop in London. It comes in a giant pot that will last you for years and costs about 3 quid.

They probably use the same active component. I've seen some claims that different brands has varying amounts of inert solvent though, i.e. something that just evaporates without attacking the plastic, making them melt the plastic to different degrees. I've not compared any myself (as most last for years) though so I don't know how true this is.

[deValmont]

Another vote here for Revell Contacta. I've used it for all of my models and it basically welds it into a single piece model. Also the needle applicator allows you to be super careful with the application (If it spills on the model it will remove detail unless cleaned off VERY fast).

[decker_cky]

Superglue on plastics is good for when you may want to break apart a model (eg, cover you for switching weapons with edition changes in warhammer). I guess you could do that for TTB characters or something - you can pop off arms by pressuring the joint with some clips.

 

For malifaux, there isn't that risk, so you might as well use plastic. In most cases, it doesn't make much of a difference if you're careful. Where it really is noticeable is on tiny models where you always superglue your fingers, and on 3 point glues, where you may want to adjust the angle a bit. 

[Bengt]

Superglue on plastics is good for when you may want to break apart a model (eg, cover you for switching weapons with edition changes in warhammer). I guess you could do that for TTB characters or something - you can pop off arms by pressuring the joint with some clips.

In my experience a superglue bond can be strong enough to break plastic if you try to disassemble the model. Not always of course, sometimes the models just fall apart when a gnat sneezes. In any case this seems like a risky strategy.

[Arli]

I swear by something like Ambroid Pro Weld or Flex-i-file Plast-i-weld through a Touch-n-flow.  Super fast, super strong, and with the Touch-n-flow, goes exactly where I need it.

 

I've seen this product at Hobby Lobby.  However, I have not see the touch n flow Container.  Where do you find that?

[Mr_Unclean]

Since reading this thread I have switched to plastic cement (currently using the GW stuff as it's what I had on hand - once that runs out I'll be looking into cheaper alternatives) and I have noticed a drastic decrease in the frustration level of some of the models I've been assembling. That extra grace period before it sets up completely really helps.

[Michaud]

I've seen this product at Hobby Lobby. However, I have not see the touch n flow Container. Where do you find that?

Its actually a big set. I picked mine up from Sprue Brothers, an online plastic modeling shop.

[CannibalBob]

Not all plastic glue will work.  Look on the bottle of whatever plastic-weld glue you are planning to purchase and make sure that it says it works on ABS plastic.  Wyrd's plastic models are made from ABS plastic, which is not the same plastic that is used for some other models which use polystyrene plastic, such as Games Workshop.

 

I have found plastic-weld glue to be the superior choice for assembling Wyrd models, but just make sure you have the stuff that will work with the type of plastic.  In addition, I have found the stuff that comes with a brush applicator to be the best to work with - but that is personal preference.