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CannibalBob

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About CannibalBob

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  • Birthday 11/21/1978

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  1. Would it ever be in the cards for the stories from the 1st edition books to be compiled into just a big fiction book? I bought all of the books, but I would buy a book that simply compiled all of the various stories into one or two books.
  2. I generally get around this issue by using some of the scenic resin bases made by 3rd party manufacturers. It also saves me the time of converting a detailed base in many cases - and in others it does half the work already and I don't have to modify much.
  3. To elaborate a bit more, the main companies that I have bought round-lipped bases from (for both Warmachine/Hordes and Malifaux) are: Dragonforge Design MicroArt Studio (normal resin and also the base-insert sets they produced with Cool Mini Or Not) Secret Weapon Miniatures Dark Age - their insert range The round-lipped bases from each of these ranges are similar enough that once painted you cannot really tell the difference. DragonForge and Secret weapon in my experience are the easiest overall to work with. There are very rarely any bubbles, flash, casting a
  4. I have bought resin bases from a variety of manufacturers over the years and the inner diameter of round-lipped bases seems to be pretty much exactly the same from most manufacturers. If there is a difference then it is minor enough that you are unlikely to notice.
  5. I'm gonna have to pick up some of that China town from Knights Of Dice!
  6. I would also look into getting the upgrades for Von Schill from the most recent book. Either through the app, buy the book, photo-copy the pages from someone else book, or buy the upgrade card pack that accompanies the book. I have not played Friekorps in a while, and I have not personally used those upgrades, but I have played the Friekorp a whole lot in both mk1 and early mk2. They are also one of my go-to crews for teaching the faction as in small games they have neat abilities but nothing complex. They are fairly straight-forward good generalists with a bit of an emphasis on durabi
  7. That Chinatown line is pretty cool. I might snag some of those for a 10-thunders little kingdom town board.
  8. It looks fantastic though! For me, I just love the fiction from Malifaux so much that I don't want characters to not be who they are in the background.
  9. I found a good set of alternate metal heads with a close approximation hat a while back. It would probably work as-is, but worst case would make for a good base to add a bit of greenstuff on. I would rather augment or convert a part than sculpt a whole new one if I can. At the time I was torn on whether to cut the hat off of the head and put it on McCabe or replace the whole head. I was debating about whether I wanted a full Indy, like you did, or McCabe dressed more like Indy. In the end I decided that I wanted the mini to still be McCabe, but dressed more like Indy. Then I lost som
  10. I was working on an Indy conversion for McCabe also a while back, but then he was the first plastic model that I managed to lose some major parts for. First I lost the bolo tie for the dismounted McCabe, then during a move I managed to misplace both of his heads. Your conversion is more extensive than the one I was planning. I just wanted to bring in the Fedora mostly, since I wanted it to still look like McCabe, but dressed more like Indy. Yours came out excellent. Very well done. I managed to get hold of a spare plastic McCabe, so I can go back to finishing up my version now.
  11. I convert a lot of models, and I have a history in multiple games with little (and big) green men. I love me some goblins of all types (gremlins count). I agree with your point about identifying the key parts of the model. I would say that the key parts to a recognizable McTavish are these: his pet gator, the leash on the gator, his gun, and his hat. Those would be the items I would copy to make a gremlin version of McTavish. The WIP shown above has a gremlin riding a gator. The Gator already has a collar, so I would add a chain to it for the leash. The rider does not need to b
  12. If you need to have a human on the model, then take some of the left over parts of McTavish and have the Gator eating him. You could set this up as some plucky Gremlin and aspiring Gator-wrangler finally got the best of the old savvy swamp man. Just put a few parts of McTavish sticking out of the gators open mouth. Essentially you would have a little diorama. I would think that this would end up rather amusing, very appropriate for Gremlins, and also easy for opponents to recognize. I heavily convert and scratch-build models and have for many years. While I have not done so for
  13. Hey, I never said the ROI on them is bad - just that they are really expensive. It does not help that I have some still in diapers (hooray for diaper costs and daycare...) and another in high school that I just had to purchase a vehicle for... ROI for most of them is good. Although there are times where I wonder about a couple of them...
  14. Interesting. Is that an example of one track piece?
  15. Also, if you are looking for ideas for more buildings then I recommend that you make: Yan Lo's Barber Shop And make it an advanced kit with a stupid amount of small details. I would buy that in a instant.
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