snitchythedog

Very nice build. I really like the three layers of detail that you see on the exterior face. Much more realistic than most of the windows that I have seen off laser cutters. The only niggle that I could have is the same niggle that I have for all laser cut pieces. For me the tabs on the top of the ground floor visually stick out like a sore thumb. I see that you have recessed them beheind other layers so they wont be seen when the first floor is on. My suggestion would be to model the keys for the first story into the brickwork at the corners with it extending from the first floor. That would hide your "keys" dividing levels. If that is the only niggle that I have then it is a small one. Again very nice build. Snitchy sends.

Completely scratch down to the wheels. WIP images are posted on my blog. http://snitchythedog.blogspot.co.uk/ Thanks for the comments all. Snitchy sends.

Yes.

You smell and I do not like the color of your hair! Now that is out of the way. I like the paint jobs. Very vivid colors. Reminds me of the anime cell painting teachniques. Snitchy sends.

That would work. You could also use liquid masking agent. It is a brush on Laytex mask. You can paint it exactly where you want it. My other suggestions I posted on the comments section of the Black Friday page. To meak transulcent filler soak a piece of extra sprue in some liquid cement and scrape some of the melted plastic off the surface to use in gap filling. To retain the translucence of the models soak or paint it with Future floor polish. It is an old model hobby trick to make clear parts either clear again (after sanding and filing) or to protect clear parts from future damage. Here is a good link. http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html That should give you a good start. Hope that helps. Snitchy sends.

I have two Zuzzy mats stored rolled up with three home made mats. That is not really an issue. If you are using too much paint or store it in a real hot enviroment I can see that becoming an issue. The biggest problem with Zuzzy is that it takes time (he works alone out of his garage) and the fact that he does not communicate well. His products are top notch even if the customer service is lacking. Snitchy sends.

Just finished my Gypsy Vardo. Hope you like. Interior prior to adding the roof. Snitchy sends

It was in the 2004 edition. I would have to fish it out of my referance library which is somewhere beheind my bits boxes. Interestingly enough there seems to be a pdf copy floating on the interwebs. Just google "how to make wargames terrain PDF" and you will nail it. Hope that helps. Snitchy sends.

GW did a toot in their how to make wargame terrain for bamboo. They just used skewers. Painted up dark green with progressively lighter green bands at the segment. A quick and dirty you tube is out there on the teachnique. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KcVGyB4syy4 I have seen others go the GS rout so this might be an option. Hope that helps. Snitchy sends.

For gap filling take a bit of the translucent plastic sprue and put it in a ceramic or glass cup. Mix in liquid hobby cement to dissolve it and use the clear goop as filler. To clean mold lines, clean as usual and then paint future floor polish over the whole model. This will make the translucent clear again. It is what model makers use to fix clear cockpits. Here is a good link on the subject. Snitchy sends

Very cool stuff. My next question is are you playing at the local pub? Snitchy sends

Very cool sir. Snitchy sends

High side of outstanding sir. Nice work on the skull bandanas. Snitchy sends.

Cheers. I will look about. Snitchy sends.

Thanks for the explination. LIke I said, I like where this is going. I heard of it back in the states and could not find it in my home town. Do they sell it at stores like hobbycraft or some other national chain or do you have to order it? Thanks for the info. Snitchy sends.

I still wouild like to see a mod to stickey this topic as a catch all for links to both tutorials and manufactures. Dhampir could up date his initital post with a full list on a weekly basis. (Your welcome) Any seconds on the suggestion at least? Snitchy sends.

Very interesting. What materials are you using? I like where you are going but more information would help both the comments and the critique. Snitchy sends.

Some very nice builds there. Outstanding work on the hillside. Snitchy sends.

Old terrain table here. It is now all gone since I had to sell it off before immigrating. Just gives me the chance to build again. Here is some of the new stuff that will populate the table. Hope you like. Snitchy sends.

Generally a river is an obsticle that interferes with the movement of both armies. If you are looking for a "fair" placment then it should go diagonally across the center of the table left to right generally from around the deployment zone of one side to the deployment zone of the other side. They make for more interesting games becasue it is terrain that gives you very few options for crossing. If you do a river be sure that there is more than one bridge since a single crossing will become the focal point of the game. As far as I can see roads in this system do not matter much so placing them would be your personal preferance. Hope that helps. Snitchy sends.

Couple more to add on. http://gamedecor.com/abasworld/ http://dampfpanzerwagon.blogspot.co.uk/ Snitchy sends.

High side of outstanding. Nice job. Snitchy sends.

Very nice terrain by the way. I have thought about using some of the Pegasus cactus but unfortunately I will have to order them direct from over here. I can also attest to the durability of the mats since I have done three so far and they not only survived play but moving countries too. I think that when you spread the caulk onto the mat you also force it into the canvas fibers. In answer to the questions about embedding materials into the caulk I have heard both good and bad. All my mats were textured latex caulk only. Apparently, from what I have read, sprinkling sand or flock onto the surface does not work well. It comes off over time. It seems that if you mix the sand into the caulk before applying it, you will get a stable surface. What I want to try is to use clear latex as an adheasive for static grass directly onto the surface. Unfortunately I have not worked up the nerve to try it yet since a mistake will ruin one of my mats. Snitchy sends

A couple you missed. http://www.terragenesis.co.uk http://www.lead-adventure.de/ http://hirstarts.yuku.com/bhirstarts http://www.hirstarts.com/tipsmain/tipsmain.html http://privateerpressforums.com/forumdisplay.php?7-Terrain-and-Table-Building I might as well plug my blog too. http://snitchythedog.blogspot.co.uk/ The list is endless, but having this topic pinned and added to would be great. Snitchy sends.