nagash13

I hear about these amazon delivery drones and teh first thing that comes to mind is "skeet shooting with prizes!" I placed my order pretty late in the sale, so i'm not surprised i havent gotten anything yet, but my secret weapon miniatures resin bases for my wyrd order arrived.

I second the post for testor model masters plastic cement. (the stuff edonil linked to) make sure its the black bottle with red lettering and "model masters." this version has a super thin metal tube for an applicator. this lets you get into tiny spots, without globs of glue ruining the model. this stuff does not need a lot to work. one of those bottles lasted me almost 3 years. and i put stuff together on a regular basis. the stuff softens the plastic and checmically welds the 2 pieces into one solid piece once it cures. so try and keep your fingers dry(dont want to press your fingerprint into the model) and back away from the join while pressing it together.

I had wanted to add some thimbles and bobins and maybe some pins, but as i walked in the store announced they were closing and to bring all purchases to the front. so i just grabbed 2 bags of buttons and called it good enough. it was a nice little break from doing fine detail work on a unit of 5 models i've been working on. was able to glue all these up as i got caught up on walking dead.

I for one welcome our gencon amazonian female overlords.

so while the acrylic markers that come in the box might work, I decided to make my own. Since the unstitched board hexagons are bigger, i tarted with spare 40mm bases from games workshop. from there i started gluing buttons from some bags of random size/color buttons i got at a fabric store. super easy project anyone can do and it really makes it easy to see what is terrain and what is an unclaimed workbench. as usual too lazy to resize image, so click on it to biggify it.

what material are those bases sculpted from? that yellow color looks like nothing i have seen before

i love this. partially because i don't discourage similar thoughts. several neighbors know only a few things about me. i work for the govt. I work really weird hours, and i am good with computers. when people ask, my favorite answer is "well i cant really explain it because you dont have a security clearance." then let their imagination create a much more exiting job for me.

so does this arsenal deck also have generics not in the M2E rulebook?

ha well it figures that the easiest crew to paint is the most complex to learn. pandora seems like a master where I would need a basic feel for what other masters do in order to use her control skills best.

i was thinking of picking those paints up on my weekend(mon/tues) and its good to hear that you like them. as to these models they really are made for good drybrushing with a final edge highlight, or even some snow effects "frosted" onto the tips and such. i like what you have done with these and agree the only thing you need now is some winterization on the bases and you are set.

i like it, good highlights. but when i eventually break down and buy that box set mine will be painted up like the notre dame leprechaun color scheme.

so I have no willpower when it comes to hobby sales and i bought the starter boxes for pandora, the viks(all female ronin looking set) and mcmourning(i think thats his name... creepy dr with undead dogs and nurses?). I have never played a game, or seen one play. I have read almost all the rule book. some of it was just getting hard to absorb without a game in front of me to see how it plays out. as the title of the thread asks, given those 3 sets, what is going to be the best 2 sets out of the box, to learn the game with? I would like to play some matches against a friend, but dont want to go crazy with overly complex rules making things hard to follow.

well, buggar. guess i better contact secret weapon miniatures and see if they can alter my order.

well i'm glad i asked. i would have guessed 50. is the poltergeist from pandora box a 40 too?

in the new plastic box, does anyone know what base size the flesh construct uses? I dont have my rulebook with me and I want to buy resin bases during black friday weekend sale at secret weapon minis.

ok so for cutting models free from the sprue, i would say almost any of these will work: https://www.google.com/#q=side+cut+wire+cutters&tbm=shop then use one of these (not sure if this is what you called a stanley knife) to trim off the extra bit where you cut the model free, as well as scratch the mold line off the model. https://www.google.com/shopping/product/893036794023939220?q=exacto+knives&oq=exacto+knives&bav=on.2,or.&bvm=bv.57155469,d.cGU,pv.xjs.s.en_US.v-r5CthikH8.O&biw=1193&bih=784&tch=3&ech=1ψ=-CeZUtTzOZPkoATR-YJI.1385768954728.9&wrapid=tlif138576910607341&sa=X&ei=kiiZUvn4AdHyoAT6kYGwDA&ved=0CHYQ8wIwAw i was told the rulebooks and the box art have no painted models because the rulebook and boxes had to be printed before the models were finished. wyrd is not a big enough company to sculpt, tool, and cast the new plastics, then pay someone to paint them, then wait for all the others to be sculpted, tooled, cast and painted before doing the rulebook and box graphics.

agree, since malifaux is not a true line of sight game(models have a pre determined height value) making them slightly taller by gluing a washer to the bottom of your bases will not effect gameplay.

i used to use all rattlecan spray on primers when i lived in california. last year i moved to long island, and living in an apartment, had no access to a climate controlled garage. so rattlecan spray primers quickly became an issue in the winter cold and summer humidity. now i use vallejo grey airbrush primer. have had zero problems with it so far. and since grey is a nice halfway point between black and white, i dont really have to think about what the final colors are like you would for priming in black vs white.

ratty, when the office team assembled the first batch, how were the mold lines? could you get away with ignoring them or would you really need to wet sand and then polish with toothpaste. i'm trying to debate what would be better, clear green sorrows with LED's in the bases, or the dayglow green with wash and highlights.

i have 5.5 more hours alone here at work. I am trying to be good and not overspend on things i dont have time to paint, or people to play against, but i'm not sure my willpower will last that long. the way my brain works: "so these are great and having them early would be neat, but i really dont NEED them, and can easily buy them later." "but there is really cool stuff like the dayglow green pandora box.... maybe just that one" "but it says here if i spend $100 i get a free model...." "SHUT UP AND TAKE MY MONEY!"

just remember to wash your hands after handling lead, and you probably want to spray a primer coat over them when you finish, or coat them in a layer of superglue to seal all the nasty lead badness in away from your hands.

my observations: the gut wound bothered me. few reasons, first the leg wounds are bleeding and dripping down his leg, but no blood is dripping down the belly. yes you have awesome blood strings crisscrossing, but why are the intestines dry as a bone. same with the guy inside the gut? the edges of the skin around the gut wound are not distressed. I would have liked to see them blend from skin tone towards an infected red hue at the flesh tears. the flesh is far too brown for my likes. it could be the photo. were you using natural sunlight or a true sunlight light bulb? the flesh being that brown might have worked if the loincloth and leather straps were done in a different color. i loved the metal and wet blood on the weapon. but the gold zigzags on the other armor pieces felt overdone to me. they pulled the eye away from the rest of the model. adding some gloss to the wet tongue, and maybe a nice blue tattoo to his head would have pulled they eye up more.

while i have never needed to wash a games workshop plastic, I understand reaper uses a different plastic, so I would suggest you try washing the mini with a grease cutting soap. I use a toothbrush and dawn dishsoap. this works on old metals and resins so i cant imagine it wouldnt work on the bones plastics. on resins i after I wash them, i try to let them sit covered in salt. the salt will pull any remaining moisture inside the resin out, so your paint wont sugger damage down the road. if the primer seems like it is not drying, it could have been too thick of a coat, or perhaps some chemical on the models reacting with the paint binders or dryers.

I'm at work so not positive of the demon height. but the skulls on the base are 28mm scale if that helps. the model is from ultraforge. the wings are a separate upgrade to the model that fits almost all their demons. most of the rocky base for the demon comes with him. i glued it to a flat 60mm base, and blended in some texture, then added all the vegitation.

well i bought them at least 3 years ago from micro art studios i think. one day i want to do a full unit of 5 of these guys. looks like these replaced them in feb. http://www.shop.microartstudio.com/possessed-bases-round-40mm-p-858.html i heard there was a split at micro art, and perhaps thats why new ones replaced. of course, i really like the new ones better, so that could be the reason too.