Tables on the Cheap

[JMDerp]

Hi all. New to Malifaux, but did a fair bit of that other game before, and found that while my modeling skills aren't superb, I have a knack for setting up scenes and getting the table looking decent.

I have plans as I start my trek into the City on a few more static scenes-- an outside scene in the Badlands, a central piazza/city center type place, and an industrial scene inspired by, of all things, some of the opening ceremonies from last week (in a way).

My plan is to do my own cobblestoning from thin sheets of polymer clays over a texture blocks I picked up a few years back. Alas, such streets need a foundation now don't they? Other than large sheets of the pink foam, what else have people used to good effect? Unfortunately, my budget will likely be the big roadblock, so keeping my materials costs low is a definite goal.

Also, might anyone have any ideas where I can find good steamie-flavored parts in the States? Cogs, gears, etc. Material doesn't matter. I had the thought of calling bike shops in the area...anyone tried this?

Thanks!

Edited August 6, 2012 by JMDerp
Why put even a tiny advert in for that other game company?

[ICleadpeople]

I stole a bunch of Cogswell cogs and Spacely sprockrets from my sons old K'nex boxes. Try to find some at a Thrift shop.

You can do some budget texturing by pealing the paper from one side of foam board and using a pen to draw you stone patern on. I like to peal a few random spots to make it look like exposed brick. Another good one is to use sheet Styrene and carvin tools to make some cracked looking paving.

If you are in the States go check out Harbor Frieght Tools. They have a huge selection of tools for very cheap. I grabe a set of sculpting tools for about $5 after paying $35 for the GF9 set.

Edited August 2, 2012 by ICleadpeople

[JMDerp]

Some good ideas. I raided my Lego box for technic gears.

Is there a "language" or alphabet to do lettering in? In reading the history of the Breach, it seems as though there might be. If not, cool. But just wondering

[Vagabond]

Is there a "language" or alphabet to do lettering in? In reading the history of the Breach, it seems as though there might be. If not, cool. But just wondering

Just use Old English, Malifaux is occupied by Americans in both 1776 and 1876 (excluding the neverborn of course)

[Ozz]

I never knew it stated a specific location for the breach as far as a country/continent was concerned? Interesting one to have learnt

[Omenbringer]

As far as I recall, the fluff never really specifies an actual location on Earth for the Breach's (it is hinted that there is more than one currently, and that they have opened at different points in Earth 's history).

This is what I really love about the writing, it only provides enough information for the reader to build his own assumptions never the full picture.

[the imp]

Ratty's Download Page features several fonts that may be of use to you.

You might consider using hardboard as a base instead of pink foam, for durability. It tends to be pretty inexpensive and DIY shops over here will frequently cut it to whatever dimensions you ask. 12" squares would make it portable and modular.

[JMDerp]

Imp-- any time you give me a fonts page, I will always bite. Just please don't goatse-bomb me :-D. Also...hm, edit: the modular concept is cool. I had posted that I had a line on some 2x2 pieces of kids' playmat from my fellow corpse-stitcher. Might be another way to do it.

I wanted to go back to this post (ICDead's) for a sec.

I have a surplus of harder green floral styrofoam at my place. The old tenant of our house was very into hideous fake-floral arrangements and left a lot of her supplies-- including a GIGANTIC, suitable-for-all-sorts-of-gaming table-- behind. I can do the rough-hewn stuff pretty well, but will your carving tools help with this material as well?

Edited August 6, 2012 by JMDerp
general clean-up

[dsmiles]

Well, most of my terrain is done on 1/4" foamcore that I can pick up at the local Dollar Tree for (yep, you guessed it!) $1 per sheet. (One sheet being about 18" x 30"). I'm also using it to make some Super Dungeon Explore boards, and it's working beautifully.

[Ciaran]

I have a surplus of harder green floral styrofoam at my place. The old tenant of our house was very into hideous fake-floral arrangements and left a lot of her supplies-- including a GIGANTIC, suitable-for-all-sorts-of-gaming table-- behind. I can do the rough-hewn stuff pretty well, but will your carving tools help with this material as well?

I haven't had good experience with it. I'm staring at a couple of big blocks in my room, and I'll likely only stare at them until I pitch them.

My hot wire wouldn't cut the material at all. It left a little bit of a mark on the surface, and that was it. It's also really "crumbly" in that you can easily put your thumb through it. I think it will will break and tear really easily, making it one of the less durable materials out there.

For my own peace of mind I just grabbed the floral stuff and tried putting pressure with my thumb. It sounds, and feels, as though the cells (which normally would hold water I guess) started collapsing. The pink foam that I also tried it on wasn't affected at all.

Now that the cons are out of the way... There's a part of me that thinks we might be able to get away with shaping it. We'd have to use sharp blades and tools, and be prepared for it to collapse a bit while being worked. After it's shaped maybe a coat of wood glue would help protect it. If we could get the glue into the cells it might work out pretty well. I'm not sure though...

[Omenbringer]

Floral foam is a mixed blessing, it is a pain to cut but is very easy to shape. For cutting use an old bread knife instead of hot knife. For shaping just apply direct pressure with your finger tip and press down the foam.

Now sealing it is another problem since it is fairly maleable. If you use it I highly recommend a hard shell textured paint. The recipe I use is

• 1 part Play ground sand
  
• 1 part Wood Glue
  
• 2 parts PVA Drywall Glue (I prefer Oil Based)

Mix it till it looks like cream of wheat and paint it on thick and heavy.

Once it has fully dried/ cured apply a few coats of Minwax polyshade and it will be like concrete.

It is definately not the best material to use but it is cheap and plentiful even in foam dry states like California. I would also highly recommend a hard wood base for anything made out of this material.

A better material (though definately not ideal) is the white open cell foam which is a bit denser than the floral stuff and available in the same places. This is different than the other white foam which is made from beads (thick cooler material). I have some hills made out of the stuff that are plenty durable and have sustained two major moves across country. I finshed it (well all of my foam terrain) with the same custom textured paint mentioned above.

Edited August 11, 2012 by Omenbringer

[the imp]

What about cutting it with a jig saw? It seems like it would be a good tool for it.

[Omenbringer]

A jig saw might work but foam has a tendancy to be pretty hard on fine toothed cutting implements moving at high speed (it melts and binds).

[Ciaran]

• 1 part Play ground sand
  
• 1 part Wood Glue
  
• 2 parts PVA Drywall Glue (I prefer Oil Based)

Thanks for this formula, I really appreciate it. It's going to save me a bit of experimenting.

[the imp]

Ah. Then a hand saw like a keyhole or jeweler's saw would be preferable.

[Omenbringer]

Thanks for this formula, I really appreciate it. It's going to save me a bit of experimenting.

No problem on the formula, I have used it exclusively for texturing and sealing terrain in one go. The funny thing is that the recipe was actually adapted from the one I used for my home climbing wall.

My favorite part is that following it up with the Miniwax polyshade will not just provide another durable coating (that has some elasticity to it) but also color in two very easy steps. My prefered shade is chestnut, which provides a very realistic southwestern United States desert look (other shades are available which can mimic other earth tones, Black Walnut would be pretty good for forest type ground).

Ah. Then a hand saw like a keyhole or jeweler's saw would be preferable.

The Jewlers saw is probably to fine toothed to not bind like I was mentioning, a cheap serrated bread knife will work well in the green floral or open white cell foams. It will also work with the higher density blue and pink foams but those are definately better cut with hot knifes.