osoi Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 (edited) VMC Black Grey and Red Beige Black Grey for shading and the other is great as a skin base P3 Coal Black Awesome for highlighting black Edited January 31, 2011 by osoi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted January 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 (edited) Updated the list. I had to guess which VGC red, blue and yellow you use, BugKing. The red and yellow, I chose the closest to the traditional primary color. Blue, I took a shot on Electric ...? Cool that you mix all of your colors. You, sir, are hardcore. Edited January 31, 2011 by Hatchethead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kxizm Posted January 31, 2011 Report Share Posted January 31, 2011 I get the feeling the Vj Brass will be similar, but you will have to keep clearing the spout. I have recently purchased the Vallejo Brass and am very pleased with it. I don't even have to worry about the spout. ...although that may be more due to the fact that my dog chewed up the plastic bottle and I had to save what was left in a small glass jar....:dead1: my dogs an idiot.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AvatarForm Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Vallejo Game Colour - 72 set Vallejo Model Colour - 72 set GW Wash set Reaper Master Triad - flesh tones P3 Range... everything but metallics, GW metallics are better, but I try not to use metallics too much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nilus Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 GW Wash set Many Thumbs up to these. They are talent in a bottle. As a lazy painter I have also started to really like the GW base coats since they really do a good job of putting down a deep color layer. Better painters will say that multiple light layers is much better for detail and such but at my skill level they do the job of getting some initial color on my model before I start layering and adding detail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Even people who despise GW (no small minority) often swear by their foundation paints and washes. I see it all the time in forums, prefaced by "Now, I'm not a fan of Games Workshop ..." or "Keep in mind I hate GW, but ..." No better endorsement. The Reaper Triads are neat. Base, shadow, highlight. Great idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doomofthepeople Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Val Model Air Metalics Rackham Chitin Green (mostly for tattoos on traditional skin tones) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrNybbles Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Confirmed. It's great. It's basically a white metallic designed for mixing. You can add it to an otherwise matte color to give it a metallic sheen or a silk finish. Very cool stuff. One guy in my FLGS swears by it. Blue and red metallics everywhere. Thank you for the confermation! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricJ Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 2 most important paints are easy! Black and White After that I would generally like a something blueish for help with shadows, although I'm not too specific on what. Then it's really based on what color's I'm using, lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffsnog Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 (edited) Vallejo Game Colour - 72 set Vallejo Model Colour - 72 set GW Wash set Reaper Master Triad - flesh tones P3 Range... everything but metallics, GW metallics are better, but I try not to use metallics too much. That's funny I prefer P3 metallics to GW. I wish I had the chunk of change to grow down on sets of paint. I just buy a color here and there and mix most of them. 2 most important paints are easy! Black and White After that I would generally like a something blueish for help with shadows, although I'm not too specific on what. Then it's really based on what color's I'm using, lol. I was gonna say that. Btw you could just use a Lamp black as opposed to a true black and just stick with those two colors. I have always preferred a Mars black. I haven't seen mars, ivory, or lamp black in model paint though at least not under those specific names. Edited February 1, 2011 by Griffsnog Ask the elder Gods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wodschow Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 2 most important paints are easy! Black and White After that I would generally like a something blueish for help with shadows, although I'm not too specific on what. Then it's really based on what color's I'm using, lol. Says the guy whose pallet consists of three colours.. O_o You should really paint some more Eric.. ..By the way, how's the Lord Chompy Bits coming along? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricJ Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 I should paint more! I keep saying that, and saying that, and saying that....I'm just too busy making games and minis for you all! He is sitting on my desk right in front of me, LCB WILL get done one of these days, maybe before next gencon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrNybbles Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 2 most important paints are easy! Black and White For the eyes I suggest using an off-white like ivory. Pure white doesn't look right for eyes. Well, look in the mirror at your own eyes and see how white they are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wodschow Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 I should paint more! I keep saying that, and saying that, and saying that....I'm just too busy making games and minis for you all! Which is very much appreciated He is sitting on my desk right in front of me, LCB WILL get done one of these days, maybe before next gencon One mini a year, huh? And I considered myself to be a slow painter.. Looking forward to see it, whenever it's done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Even people who despise GW (no small minority) often swear by their foundation paints and washes. I see it all the time in forums, prefaced by "Now, I'm not a fan of Games Workshop ..." or "Keep in mind I hate GW, but ..." No better endorsement. The Reaper Triads are neat. Base, shadow, highlight. Great idea. I agree with the washes. I thought foundation paints were good when they came out.. and they are but only for a subset of paint jobs, I would use them in a heartbeat if I was painting 300 orks in 4 days again. However anything where I want a nice paint job I just find they are a bit thick so you lose detail and if your water them down they can seperate and go chalky. So I've replaced Tallarn flesh with Brown Sand from Vallejo and I find it cover well enough that it does the job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evil Homer Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 For Reds: VMC Hull Red VMC Flat Red VMC Carmine Others: VMC Deck Tan VMC Green White VMC Green Ochre VMC Flat Earth VMC Orange Brown GW Metallics About 1/2 the GW Foundations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffsnog Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 I agree with the washes. I thought foundation paints were good when they came out.. and they are but only for a subset of paint jobs, I would use them in a heartbeat if I was painting 300 orks in 4 days again. However anything where I want a nice paint job I just find they are a bit thick so you lose detail and if your water them down they can seperate and go chalky. So I've replaced Tallarn flesh with Brown Sand from Vallejo and I find it cover well enough that it does the job. I find mixing the foundation with it's respective color and wash will keep it from beginning chalky and being over thinned. Without going into it too deep you keep the chemisty right so that the paint sets. This also keeps the paint from drying out too quickly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tograth Posted February 3, 2011 Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 Personally, I would say must haves are the GW foundation range (all are fantastic, and give great coverage) as well as the GW washes. In addition to those, Chestnut ink and Fleshwash ink by Cote D'Arms are fantastic. they really work well with just about everything - chestnut is great for dirtying metals, adding depth to browns, etc. While fleshwash is great for general toning on just about everything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hatchethead Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 List updated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B@mze Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 (edited) Acrylic Gesso as a primer, have never tryed it on a high detail mini, so water or rubbing alcohol(I think it's the right name) as thinner. Chaos black and Skull white for high-light mix. And then a red, purple and/or an OD green, as base color Edited February 10, 2011 by B@mze Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mooby Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 My only few MUST have paints are quite mundane really: GW Bleached Bone as it highlights everything with a natural hue. VMC Red/Rojo as it's a beautiful red over any basecoat as for individual colour sets it all boils down to mood intended but nearly everything I own has some GW Devlan Mud or Gryphonne Sepia on it. Oh and GW Boltgun Metal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaane Feinwong Posted February 10, 2011 Report Share Posted February 10, 2011 If I was buying again from scratch. Hmmm. For base: Red, Blue, Yellow, Black, White. You can mix everything else. Metallics: Brass, Copper, Silver, maybe gun metal. A paintable Gloss and matte clear finish. Small plastic paint containers to store mixed paints. You don't HAVE to have a special purple or that light blue everytime you want a new tone. Mix it. As long as you have the base 5, you have everything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yazza Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 If I was buying again from scratch. Hmmm. For base: Red, Blue, Yellow, Black, White. You can mix everything else. Metallics: Brass, Copper, Silver, maybe gun metal. A paintable Gloss and matte clear finish. Small plastic paint containers to store mixed paints. You don't HAVE to have a special purple or that light blue everytime you want a new tone. Mix it. As long as you have the base 5, you have everything else. You dont want to know the amounts of paint i wasted trying to mix brown Never had colour theory or something like it in school, its hard for me to mix from scratch, easier to adapt existing colours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaane Feinwong Posted February 11, 2011 Report Share Posted February 11, 2011 I do buy specific colors if I'm going to use a lot of it, like tan for my base boards or green for goblins so everything is consistent. But the suggestion above is assuming you are starting over and want to get just the basics. I'd steadily buy the off colors after that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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