tadaka Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Eh I pin in the inserts as well pritty much pin everything you can. Its not hard to split superglue realy. Those glues on metal models just are not all they are cracked up to be. Sorry but if you find the glue does not hold try some thing else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wigwam Posted December 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 @tadaka: yep. you're right. I will start pinning. :damnit: I was going to go that way anyway. The arms I was having trouble with originally seem to have held - prome as above, blob of greenstuff, leave well alone for 12 hours or more. Now I need to bite the bullet and pin. Bases would be a good place to gain confidence in. :gurney: One Question: Should I use Greenstuff in the pin sites (to pad out) or not? (I suppose it wouldn't harm....) I was :blowup: but now I am :hmpf: but I may go through :banghead: before I get to :thumb: Happy :santaclau: everybody! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbdrand Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 +1 for CA. I find it much better than regular super glue. I use a gel CA that sets well and holds a much stronger bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wigwam Posted December 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 @kbdrand: Forgive my dotage but what's CA? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cyberakuma Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 don't rush pinning it's all too tempting to use power tools to do it but it ends badly you will drill through the mini and your finger many times i just insert the the drill bit into a screw lock pin vice (about £5 from antics in the u.k.) and use p3 modelling pinning refills 0.85 (about £3 for 2 0.85mm drill bits and some pinning rods from maelstrom) drill the main body first where the joint will attach fill the newly drilled hole with super glue and slot your pin in wipe away any excess with a tissue q-tip or something that'll soak it up and leave it to set one the pin is set and secured paint the tip of the pin in a bright colour and press the bit you wish to attach to the pin against the wet pin in the position you want it in this will give you a nice little dot to aim your drill bit to for the attaching piece once you've drilled the attaching piece slot it on to the pin and make sure you're happy with how it fits and if it's flush and you're happy fill the new hole with glue and slot on to the pin again wiping away any excess glue if there's a gap you need to fill don't bother with greenstuff it's great for building models from scratch and doing many things but it's not the most versatile stuff out there get some milliput yellow grey mix (about £2-3 for quite a sizeable amount again antics in the u.k.) it mixes just like green stuff but if you add lots of water to it's more plyable you can even dissolve it in water down to a milk like consistency to fill in cracks in the model's surface and such so if you have been over zealous and created a small hole while drilling it's not necessarily a total write of you can fill the hole with milliput then get some 500/1000 grain sandpaper and smooth the surface back down so noone can tell what you've done and then you're just ready for priming and painting as for glues i'll say check antics website http://www.anticsonline.co.uk/ they'll have some great Cyanoacrylate glues accelorators/kickers/ activators they also have threadlockers this stuff is not for the feinthearted but if you really never want that part to move again this is the stuff as it's designed to hold screws in place on engines and deal with vibrations from everyday use heavy duty threadlocker will not come lose under 3000psi of pressure though is available in lighter versions plus also take note in if it's permenant or removable blends as the permenant variety may take heat or power tools to remove the part again the stuff they have in antics is blue which is medium strength which will need torque of about 115 in-lb (12 N-m) to remove and has a temperature range of -54 to 149 °C as i said though this stuff isn't for the feinthearted as you can contaminate the bottle by getting the polymer liquid that has had contact with metal to back wash in with the remaining liquid in the bottle so you could theoretically buy a bottle and end up getting on only one use out of it before it completely dries out hope this helps you a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmp_mydog Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 I'm surprised no one has asked this yet, but did you wash you models with soap water and a toothbrush? If there is any mold release on the model it won't glue together. Pinning is important on many of the Wyrd models particularly the one with thin arms. I use Gorilla Brand Super Glue, it's rubberized so the glue has a little be of give to it making snapping less likely. Also it tends to be a bit thicker like a gel so application is easier. You may also want to look for Krazy Glue in a purple bottle with a brush applicator. The brush makes it easy to just apply a little glue, to much won't dry and make a weak bond. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EdgeDs Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 one of the big downers for me with metal figures is getting the parts to stick together. Still by no means are all glues the same and a good quality gel is what I normally aim for failing that try pinning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kbdrand Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Here's the glue I use, it is the best: http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html It is a CA (Cyanoacrylates) based glue. Much better than normal super glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tadaka Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 @ One Question: Should I use Greenstuff in the pin sites (to pad out) or not? (I suppose it wouldn't harm....) I find just using a manual drill (again I hate to say gw but they do make a great one for just this sort of thing) then use a cut up paperclip in the hole with a little superglue. Works great for me. I will only break out green stuff if I need to fill in a hole or when I use pins in to the bottom of a base I will put greenstuff on the end to keep it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nilus Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Yeah I like GW pin vise a lot. Still the most comfortable hand drill imho. I generally only bust the Dremel out for bigger models. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yazza Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 i use slo-zap, its a CA (cyano acrilate) its thick, just not gel like and hrdens after a minute i sell its for all my wargames and their metal minis and they generally all love its use too much though and drying time goes up exponentionally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted December 23, 2010 Report Share Posted December 23, 2010 Sounds similar to the stuff I use. Deluxe Materials Rokit Max. Gap-filling super glue that sets up in about 10-20 secs. The only issue with it is that it is a little too thick for the ultra-fine nozzles you can buy, so they clog up all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Griffsnog Posted January 4, 2011 Report Share Posted January 4, 2011 You could use a quick set epoxy but you'll probably just make a mess and ruin the model. Your best bet is to pin EVERYTHING that is pewter pewter/plastic. The reason your having trouble with certain joints is the chemical in superglue CA (I'm not gonna spell it out). Has no "shear strength" the pin will offset this like rebar in concrete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogwart Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I usually use the Loctite brand bottle that has the brush. The bottle has a wide base that sits nicely on the table and the brush makes it easy to control the amount of glue. I switched to it after a little accident I had... I was gluing an arm to a model and had a bottle of super glue that you had to squeeze out. I had a horrible habbit of holding the model in one hand, the tube of glue in the other, twisting the cap off with my teeth, applying the glue, replacing the cap with my teeth, putting the bottle down, picking up the piece to be glued on and holding it into place. I did just this, but on this particular occassion, i guess some glue had gotten onto the cap and thus onto my lip. Here i am holding a model together with my hands when i realize I have glued my tongue to my lip. Here is the following events as they were heard in my house. Me (as i realized that my tongue was stuck): Wot da hell. Me to my wife: Halp Helen halp Wife: what's wrong? Me: I gued my tongue to my wip. wife what? Me: I gued my tongue to my wip. wife: You glued your tongue to you lip? Me: No sh** wife: This may hurt Me: Do tumthing! my wife then proceeds to hook a finger under my tongue and pull. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shinigami Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 roflol! erm i mean.... ouch that gotta hurt, feel soo sorry for you.... :goodbad: but it is remarkable how similar your method of glueing is to mine, tough i never do that with super glue (as wel you know, the risks ) but with my plastic glue (wich is much safer tough really awfull tasting still ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keltheos Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I like to facilitate gluing/pinning with a rum or stout ale of some sort. Works wonders! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mythicFOX Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I use this... http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_ug_cntrl/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-ULTRA-Gel-Control.htm It's a thick gel, so no running, the rubber in the mix makes the joins more impact resistant. Others have covered washing your mini's before gluing / painting and pinning where ever possible so I'll add this... Scoring both parts at the point of the join before gluing makes a big difference. This breaks up the surface and gives the glue something to really cling to at both sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizuriel Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I'm surprised no one has asked this yet, but did you wash you models with soap water and a toothbrush? If there is any mold release on the model it won't glue together. I use to have a huge problem with metal models and found that washing them first and using an exacto knife to lightly scrape along the joints helped me glue them in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.