Tony LiPira Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 The title sums it up. I tried two-part putty, which seems better suited for the wider gaps found on metals. I also tried Vallejo Model Color Putty, a liquid product that comes in a dropper bottle. It makes a big, chalky mess that doesn't even make it into the cracks. Maybe I'm just doing it wrong. I appreciate any suggestions that might be helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phototoxin Posted August 23, 2015 Report Share Posted August 23, 2015 Much as it pains me to say : GW 'liquid green stuff', just be aware that the pot will dry out quickly so make sure you seal it well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EnternalVoid Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 Liquid Greenstuff has not worked the best for me, I am actually looking into other options. It seems when I apply it, it settles and the "crack" is still kind of visible. If I try to do more levels it seems to build up on the sides. Eventually it will be okay when I clean off the stuff that builds up on the sides so it is more even, but it never seems that good. Generally if I am willing to do the work I just get millputty, get it kind of wet and slimy, and seep it into the crack and smooth off the top with my finger. Hate doing it as it is annoying and I might waste some material mixing the two pieces together as I need very little *unless I am doing several models at once with a lot of gaps*. So I am curious if anyone else has any tricks for this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowardLovecraft Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 Something that I have seen used in model making forums is to melt sprue in plastic glue. It creates a putty that sticks really well and levels out quite nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bengt Posted August 24, 2015 Report Share Posted August 24, 2015 Something that I have seen used in model making forums is to melt sprue in plastic glue. It creates a putty that sticks really well and levels out quite nicely. I do this is as well. Though I tend to make shavings from the sprue and glue them into/over the gap. Takes some cutting/scraping/filling once it's set but you can get a very smooth and homogeneous surface.When it comes to liquid greenstuff, it will stick much better if you prime first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wynnstudio Posted August 25, 2015 Report Share Posted August 25, 2015 I split my filler between really small gaps and not so small gaps. Squadron Green Putty for the really small gaps that green stuff doesn't want to get into easily. If you have never used it I would look at some youtube videos or other online howto's. It's completely different then GS and other 2 part materials. Larger gaps I use green stuff and colour shaper brushes to shape and smooth. Green stuff does not stick to them, no need to moisten your toolsInstead of squadron green putty you can also use bondo glazing spot putty You can get a tube that will last forever at any auto parts shop and is cheap. Works the same as the squadron putty.Last caveat about the squadron or bondo putty. It has a strong odor like an old school magic marker or acetone. wynnstudio Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freakshow1966 Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 i have always been a fan of Testor putty. Cheap and easy to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmod Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Not tried the Bondo Spot Putty yet, but tried most other options, and here's what I use:For large gaps (>1/2mm) I use Magic Sculpt if the area is sandable (ie not hard to get to). MS is similar to Milliput in that it's water soluble and sandable, but much easier to work with and just as cheap. If the area is hard to get to I use Kneadatite (Green Stuff) for larger cracks. With Wyrd plastics large cracks like these are rather rare...For medium cracks, which are the most common, I use only Mr. Hobby Dissolved Putty. This is a putty, similar to Vallejo, but dissolved in Toluene, the main thinner in plastic cement. This stuff is runny enough to get into cracks, will actually bond to the plastic a little bit, and is sandable after a few hours (minutes in my DIY hot box!). One bottle will last a long time, just make sure to keep the lid on at all times; Toluene evaporates like crazy, and when the stuff gets to thick it's less useful. I ordered a bottle of Mr. Hobby Mr. Thinner just to keep mine fresh... I also know others who dump thin plastic cement in theirs to keep it thin, seems to work as well.For metal/resin minis it's more tedious, and the advantages of the Dissolved Putty are lessened as it won't bond in the same way. Usually it's green stuff or Magic Sculpt (or Milliput in a pinch) with a bit of water added, depending on whether I can sand the area afterwards...For the tiny, barely visible hairline cracks I use GW's Liquid Green Stuff. Hate to be forced to purchase from them, but this stuff is exceptional for the tinyest cracks. Also I sometimes use to smooth out rough areas or larger joins. LGS is not useful for medium or larger cracks, because it would take a lot of layers to build up, but when thinned with water it can get into any crack there is, no matter how tiny, and it's sandable afterwards. Milliput milk is somewhat similar, but not quite as good and a lot more hassle. No contest! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slapdrone Posted September 11, 2015 Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Testers plactic glue for small gaps. I wait until the plastic is soft and shape it with a toothpick or xacto blade. Any rough edges can be sanded the next day after the glue and plastic slurry cures. Squadron green putty for large gaps. I'm not one for one and done on application. I usually put filler on a little heavy, shaping it as best I can while it sets up, then I'll shave and sand any excess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpectreEliteGaming Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 The truth is gap filler of any kind has never worked to a standard I have been happy with. Honestly, I put layer after layer of primer or a thick base coat over/in the gap/hole until it is filled in - takes a while but works everytime. Same goes for fixing bubbles in resin - layer that shit on and cover it up with some pretty thin layers after. With the new Wyrd plastics you have to be careful because the details fill in quick but the gaps do to! If the gap or hole is a large one - plain old two part green stuff is the way to go.Forget the fancy liquid putty. Its all garbage as far as I'm concerned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zFiend Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Usually just basic greenstuff. Or lately for small gaps I've been using GW typhus corrosion and painting on top of that. It fills them up nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Astrella Posted September 15, 2015 Report Share Posted September 15, 2015 Regular greenstuff has always worked out fine for me. Liquid greenstuff seems more suited to really small gaps or just smoothing out a rough surface a bit. (by sanding down a bit afterwards.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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