Nymie_the_Pooh

This probably looks a lot like yesterday's picture. I finished highlighting the individual muscle groups and skin flaps before glazing the skin. After taking the pictures I am thinking I may have gone too subtle on the glazing. I also think I got the lighting direction wrong in some areas. I am going to work on the rest of the model so I am not looking at the skin in a vacuum.

I started to paint. I hope to have the skin done (other than global cohesion and touch ups) by tomorrow.

Rustoleum makes a magnetic primer if you don't feel like snipping metal. It's made for chalkboard or whiteboard paint to go over it and still be able to take fridge magnets/ magnetic alphabets. It's just another option if you have trouble finding what you are looking for.

I think it depends on your setup. Something simple like dowels or magnets can work. Alternatively, if setting the tiles on a flat surface you could attach something to the underside. There are adhesive footpads for things like lamps, or maybe the liner for a cupboard cut to shape with some spray adhesive. Edit: I saw this thread before the other one. There is good advice over there.

I may steal the cracked skin idea. I have yet to paint mine as I did not know how I wanted to paint it.

Sorry for lack of updates. I have spent my time since my last post tinkering on a base while waiting for models to arrive. I need to have the exact height on one of them before I can proceed on the base. There is not much done truth be told. The models had not shown up yet so I am moving to one of my backup models. This one is pretty simple construction wise. This is a Monstrosity model from Privateer Press. The base was me trimming out the center of a 50mm base for the rim. I cut a circle out of a piece of terrain designed for Mantic's game Deadzone to fit inside the rim I had left from trimming the base. Some brass rod was added for running four wires inside two channels. The one wire that is sticking up will be pressed down. I took the picture while I was waiting for the glue to set before pushing it into a final shape. I may do a little more detailing, but that is pretty much it for this base. I am trying to keep the base somewhat subdued so I may decide to leave it after getting the wire bent correctly. There was some pinning and putty on the model itself. The arms and head are magnetized. This piece will be playable since the model will be on a 50mm base. I want to have the ability to switch options on the model. I am not painting the other parts at this time. I had a few different models in mind for the backup. This one won out because it has flesh, leather, cloth, metal, and sections I could do as plastic and maybe even some glass. It offered a greater contrast in materials than the other options I was looking at.

I am lazy. To mount the magnets I use epoxy putty with superglue. Just dab supeglue to the base. Place a mound of putty on the glue. Put glue either on the magnet or the putty. Press the magnet into the putty until the magnet is flush with the surface or lifted slightly away from the surface the base will sit on. Work the putty to the desired shape. Epoxy putty on its own will not hold the magnet, but it will give you a nice fit for glue to hold. The plasticard mount is the sturdier solution if you run into issues.

Here is a blog post for today. I am starting over as I feel this was too ambitious for the time I have to do it in.

Here is a shot from today. This is turning out to be a larger project than I originally anticipated. I still have some sanding I want to do before going to sleep. On the photobucket front, images on page two are loading now, but images are not loading for me on page one. I do not believe I did anything any different when I posted them originally, and I know I did not go back and edit anything. I am probably going to blog tomorrow and link directly to that as it may cause fewer issues in the future.

It looks like photobucket direct links stopped working since I posted the images as they were showing before. Here is a link to the subfolder with all of the images I shared from Round 2 in case anybody was curious. All of the other images I submitted in this thread so far are over here. Here is day one of working on round 3. A lot of the cleanup on these models was already done as I had been working on cleaning that army between other projects for a few months now. The basic idea is a scientist created a machine that lets him view and possibly change his personal destiny. http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b344/Nymie_the_Pooh/Miniatures/Iron%20Painter/Iron%20Painter%202016/Round%203/IP%202016%20Round%203%20Start.jpg

I uploaded the submission image to the gallery. I learned my camera has trouble autoadjusting to a black background. When I turn on the ability to adjust the lighting on the camera manually I lose the macro function. Here is an alternate collage where I tried the model on a white background. The scene I had in mind was at night so it looks completely wrong to me with this backdrop.

Hatching is an art term. It basically means a bunch of tiny lines running in parallel. The thighs in particular for the picture you linked has fine lines running across them from left to right. The darker areas are a little more blended and the texture is not quite as pronounced in the shadows.

Thank you. I feel like I might be learning something. This is likely my last WIP post before I submit my entry. I was unable to work on the model yesterday. Today I glued some vines on and painted them. I also touched up the wall as the glue left some frosting and I needed to carry over the shadow from the vines. There are touch ups and some more greenery to add and possibly paint. I need to figure out what to do about his feet. The foot that broke off was the one I pinned to attach him to the base, and I did not get it attached exactly right. I may break it off again and reset it. I hope to have the model done in a few hours from me posting this.

I find 3" is a good height for each floor in a building as it gives some space for getting hands in there. I want to say the terraclips buildings designed for Malifaux were 2.5" tall for each floor. Mine are buried right now or I would check. The terraclips feels tight to me, but is workable. Any smaller than that and you may run into trouble when it come to putting a model in or pulling a model out.

Most jeans use a weave of blue and a warm offwhite with gold thread for some of the trimming. Anywhere that is worn will probably have more of the warm offwhite showing than other areas. I find it helps to use a white with a slight yellow tinge for highlighting rather than a light blue or white because it represents the blend of fibers rather than just making the blue lighter. Texture is something that always trips me up. I am still trying to learn how to paint realistic denim. Most miniature artists seem to use hatching. I have yet to make it look correct, but I feel I am getting better about colour selection.

It happens with some paints or with any if you try to thin too much. You can use acrylic medium in place of or in addition to water. Acrylic medium is essentially the clear liquid part of the paint. Adding acrylic medium makes the paint more transparent instead of thinning the paint the way water does. I believe both Vallejo and GW sell small bottles. You can also buy larger bottles through art stores.

That is my hope with the extensions to the wall I did. I think I may add a sign if there is time later. I am skipping it for now, but it is going on the list of features if time permits. I laid in the basic colours for the wall again. I still need to go through and do some detailing on it. I wanted to see how the black would look so I went ahead and put down a couple of layers on the wall and base rim. I carried the OSL up into the face. I toned back the vest a lot. I started to try and figure out the freehand. I am thinking I may go a little smaller on the crow. I tried leaning it toward green because of Resurrectionists, but may shift it over to blue to make it stand out a little more against the orange of the vest.

It reminds me a bit of trying to use a Kanban board. https://kanbanflow.com/

I thought about adding part of a plaque, but a street sign may be a better idea. I may see if I can mock something up before going to bed in a little bit. Otherwise I'm not sure I will have time. I don't have a lot to show for today. I have done some more putty and sanding since sharing the last pictures, but it looks much the same. I feathered on some spray primer. I may work on it in a little bit, but today was primarily an off day.

Yesterday was another day without much painting. I worked on mapping out the light and shading on the skin. Today I discovered one of the cats had snapped his foot off at the ankle. The wall has been bothering me. It is intended to be part of a longer wall, but I feel like I failed to convey that fact. I extended the wall to the outer edge of the base by added some putty to the ends. I am writing this as I wait for the ankle and wall to dry. Later today I will sand the ends of the wall down and smooth out with thin washes of miliput. Hopefully it will work better this way.

I had not heard anything. I am so far outside of the loop I have no idea who to even ask to ask. I am on the doubtful side however. The primary cost for miniatures is tied up in making the molds. My understanding is that PVC and HIPS use different types of molds. Maybe in the future, but it does not make a lot of sense to me to manufacture a new mold for a model that just had a production mold made for it. It would be much more likely to happen if they plan to do an alternate sculpt. This is pure speculation so I could be completely off base.

Why is there only a Like button and no Love button. These are phenomenal!