waferthinninja

How about a Railroad Baron, perhaps the man who arranges the train back and forth through the Breach. I see him as being Guild, but there are obviously links to M&SU. His minions would be train drivers, engineers and maybe bankers and stockbrokers and the like. To oppose him, the Outcasts could get a gang of train robbers, like the Hole In the Wall gang from Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

That's some seriously awesome terrain. I assume you are using the non TerrainLinx Himmelveil stuff? I got the TerrainLinx ones and frankly its way too much effort to make (especially the little tabs to fit the posts to) and is a pain to put together. Looks like you have made larger sections mounted on foamcore? Edit: found your blog, reading up on how you made it. Nice work!

Yeah Jon's overhead plans are cool I have a thread about my terrain here: http://wyrd-games.net/forum/showthread.php?t=17971

No they don't, though I think it is a matter of some controversy: http://wyrd-games.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7572&highlight=pillar&page=2 The final ruling seemed to be that they stayed forever (well, until destroyed), which is why she is limited to creating one per turn. Either way, it was fun fencing McMourning into the alley :vb_devil:

I can't imagine this ever being the case unless you are not using nearly enough. I think lack of terrain is the main reason poor old Tina got wiped out - Tina herself was the only model with range, her crew didn't stand a chance without some cover to hide behind. Even Tinas Ice pillars are no more than a nuisance if the enemy can just walk around them (as opposed to where they block an alleyway or something requiring a significant detour).

Or how about a Wyrd take on a Ninja clan? I'm guessing they would be Outcasts. Their schtick would be remaining unseen until they are ready to strike - either via the Harmless ability (as per Ronin) or some new stealth mechanism. They would excel at assassinating Masters, perhaps having abilities to prevent soulstone use, but would be flimsy in a stand up fight. There are a whole host of ninja tools and abilities to draw on for inspiration - smoke bombs, kites, wall walking, shuriken, caltrops. Ninjas are cool.

How about a Time Traveller in an H.G. Wells style steampunk time machine? His minions could be pretty much anything, gathered from the annals of time, from dinosaurs to medieval knights. His powers would obviously be to manipulate time. The time machine would have limitations, and wouldn't be accurate enough to go back to the recent past (i.e. within the timeframe of the game), but you could do things like go back in time and cut down a tree or blow up a building so its not there in the present, or "teleport" minions by taking them to the past and put them somewhere. His ultimate power would be to travel back and ensure someone was never born. I'm not sure its a particularly practical suggestion, it probably raises waaaay too many problems, but time travel is cool.

All the dirt coming out now Only joking, I'm pretty sure this is an error of memory rather than rules; we didn't take particularly detailed notes, Jon put most of this report together from memory + photos, so he had to guesstimate when the Construct was made based on when it started appearing in the photos.

I think the Mobile Toolkit is the way forward if you want to use Ramos as a summoner. Otherwise it doesn't matter how much scrap you have lying around, the choke point will be the number of high :tomes you have. You will have turns where you draw none, and then he is sat twiddling his thumbs. With the toolkit you just need an 8 and a 7 of any suit to summon a spider and a creation, which you should manage almost every turn. It also frees up your big :tomes to power other abilities, like Joss' Brutal/Open Current and Ice Gamin's Sub Zero.

Lol I will have to add up my Malifaux Addiction Score. Bought a Ramos crew (box + Joss + extra spiders + base inserts to look nice), played one game and bought a Viktorias box (+ Ronin clam + resin bases). Then bought a Rasputina box (+ more bases). I have a ton of other unpainted stuff too on top of Malifaux, so put a self imposed restriction of "no more buying until these are painted". Basecoated the Viktorias for the second game, still a long way from finished.... good enough though, just ordered Colette box, Coryphee duet, Cerberus, Silent One, Essence of Power... and reading up on what other figs I'll need if I go for The Dreamer. ... forget the score, I don't think I need it to know I'm addicted!

I think they'd probably be fine, though to be honest I'd prob make something sturdier if I was transporting them every week or something. Its not an issue for me as I only plan on moving them between my spare room and my kitchen! If you like the look but not the paper, you can always make them from foamcore, then use the textures to "skin" them. This is a significantly greater amount of effort (and a little more cost), but they would be plenty sturdy for the rigours of regular play. I guess it is a case of personal preference, but I'm not fussed about building interiors - they are not very practical; you have to take the roofs and levels off, then find somewhere to put them (this is how terrain gets sat on!) and then if you have figures on multiple levels you have to perform these operations without sliding the figures around. In the case of Malifaux, I get the idea it wasn't really designed with this sort of terrain in mind. Consider the affect of multiple level buildings on the wording of abilities that let you ignore terrain like float and fly. Bottom line, works great for me as it is, YMMV

Thanks! The water is from the WWG "The Maiden" - a massive galleon ship (I have one partly made but I am procrastinating about how to do the rigging). The water is literally just printed on thin card and stuck directly to the table with blutac, giving the dock has a slight elevation to it. The water is a 12 page printout (3x4, each 7"x7") meant to make a large rectangular area. I used pages 5-8, then another copy of I think pages 5-6 (or maybe 7-8, I forget) - the join being on a darkish edge which disguises the discontinuity. The clock tower is sitting on a little 1" platform (which is a simple box reinforced with foamcore), with the stairs leading up being part of a bridge I've also made (next time we play we may use the water tiles as a river). The boats are Dave Graffam models just like the building - "Patrol Boat" and "Smuggler's Rowboat".

Jon's better photo Terrain Setup by Maxvon_d, on Flickr Also, get a sneak peak of the battle report and some of his awesome figs on his Flickr account.

Finished Malifaux Docks by waferthinninja, on Flickr This is the finished board I set up for the game (almost, I think I subsequently moved a couple of buildings around to balance it out a bit). I put the warehousey buildings along the waterside, a sort of open public gathering area in front of the clock tower in the middle, slums towards one corner and a slightly fancier walled area to the other corner. Jon took some better photos, hopefully he will post a battle report before too long. We played a sort of 4 player game - a 35ss Brawl, each person taking control of one Master. It worked out fine, we had a great time, though it did take about 6 hours; 2 people had never played before, I have played one game, and Jon had only played a handful. The boat did not survive the day - in several seperate incidents Hurricane Jon managed to first knock the sails off, then smack down the mast! Nothing some big gobbets of glue won't fix

Maybe the change was because they might not last until the end of the encounter, given that they are breakable. Otherwise people might wonder if they somehow sprang back up again after being broken, given that the effect said they last until the end of the encounter. I think we have the capacity to be confused whatever the wording!

I think this is the most sensible idea. I'm not convinced that the various schemes and strategies are particularly balanced against one another. Within a game yes, between two games with a different set of goals, no. A 3vp -2vp win is often no less well faught than an 8vp - 0vp. Certain matchups and strategies make a high scoring game nigh on impossible for one side or the other, and a canny player who predicts this and plays for the marginal victory should be rewarded. However, given time constraints, you are typically only going to play a handful of games in a tournament, and thus the chances of a tie are high if you only count W/L/D. So maybe keep VP difference as a tie breaker, so there is still an incentive to gather as many as you can. Average the difference across games. If an opponent has conceded such that you never got to calculate VP, simply exclude it from your average VP calculation, but still counts as a win for you. For the conceder it is a loss; should they still somehow end up in a top position in the tournament overall, such that their VP score mattered, assign some harsh punitive value (maybe a diff of -8) to the conceded game. That way you can only hurt yourself with a concession, you can't artificially boost a friends score.

I live in Reading. So far have only played against a friend in London (maxvon_d), and planning a game at my house this weekend, again with friends. I don't know of any local games; they don't stock Malifaux in Eclectic Games (might ask them about it next time I'm there) which would be the obvious place given that they have game rooms and regular gaming evenings. Sort of maybe half tempted to try and set one up, but not sure I can handle the commitment :afraid:

Great writeups. I love those wild west buildings!

We are still learning the game, so part of the idea is for the terrain to look nice but be really basic rules-wise. The buildings just sit there blocking LOS, nice and simple. Its one less thing to have to think about, lets you concentrate on learning the characters abilities.

Those are really cool, nice work

Warehouse of Rakes Corner Cottage of Rakes Corner Apothecary of Rakes Corner Walls of Rakes Corner Low Street Buildings Bundle Ground Tiles Bundle Coachhouse (this one is free) Hovel (free) Also just bought the Clock Tower and Jumble House though they aren't in the picture.

The layout is about 2ft 6in x 3ft 6in. Enlarging to the side with a water area with piers/docks will bring the whole layout to about 3ft 6in x 3ft 6in - about right as might we be playing 3-4 player games. The roads are actually not WWG Himmelveil ones, everything in the picture is from Daves Games (http:\\www.davesgames.net). I figured everything would look better from one manufacturer as they tend to have the same overall "feel". I do have the Himmelveil pdfs too - the main reason I didn't use those streets (which are arguably nicer) is that the "blank/no road" square didn't tile as well - the 6" squares were really obvious. It definitely quick and easy compared to making "normal" terrain (i.e. out of foamcore, balsa wood etc), looks just as nice IMHO and requires no artistic ability. The whole of what you see in the picture was put together over a week or two of evenings. I would say a decent printer is a must, prob the only real barrier - I used to have an inkjet which produced results which were either too dark, or washed out if I used economy mode, and I would get through ink cartridges like noones business, and if I went a few months without printing they would dry up and I'd need new ones. I got a colour laser (Brother HL-4040CN) and its fantastic - prints are clearer, faster, and though the toner is expensive to refill, I must have printed 500 full colour sheets and the readouts still say full. YMMV though, I know a lot of people prefer inkjets. I have the pdfs to make ramps and risers for some multi-level goodness, but I'm dubious about them being sturdy enough made from just card, so I will prob make from foamcore and use the textures to skin them. There are buildings with balconies and the like for gargoyle perching, but I've not built any of them yet. I have a game in less than 2 weeks, so I want to get enough terrain to fill the board, then worry about stuff like that later.

They are cardstock (210g/sm). They are very light, but will stay where they are well enough when stuck down with blutac. They are quite sturdy, but would not survive, for example, being sat on - but then you have the pdfs so if one does suffer such a terrible fate, just make a new one. It only takes about an hour or two to put one together, depending on the complexity; fiddly bits like chimneys and dormers take as long as the rest of the building.

WIP shot of a terrain setup I am making, primarily to play Malifaux. I was just laying them out to see how much more I need to make, thought I would take a WIP shot. I figure I need a few more road sections, about 5-6 more buildings plus a few more wall sections and some more crates etc to scatter around for cover. The base is a couple of sheets of foamcore, hinged together with duck tape so it folds in half for easy storage. This has the basic stone tiling all over. The roads are then seperate bits of card stuck on with tiny bits of blutac, as are the buildings, so the whole thing is pretty modular. Its slightly narrower and longer than the "standard" 3' x 3' Malifaux board, more like 2'6" x 3'6". I have a vague plan to turn it into a dockside area using water to one side with some little piers and boats - so one crew can arrive by river! Also want to make some ramps and risers to inject some 3D-ness to proceedings, but I'm concentrating on getting enough buildings first ready for a game in a couple of weeks. The whole thing is currently Dave Graffam (www.davesgames.net) stuff, his models are all pretty easy to make, pretty cheap but great quality, I can highly recommend. Nice thing is that a lot of the pdfs are multi-layer, allowing you to make several versions of the same building that look totally different.