Sholto

What Q'iq'el said. Coloured base rims tend to draw the eye from the model, which is the exact opposite of what a base should be doing. With a base, you are (in some cases literally) putting the model on a pedestal - don't want the pedestal to be more eye-catching than the model. Sholto

Thanks. It was very simple, actually. When I did the basecoat I put a streak of red on all the scars. The highlighting mostly hid this, but when I was done I applied a couple of light washes of Baal Red - more a glaze than a wash. Then I applied a watered-down (3:1) mix of Dead White and Pale Flesh to the very ridge of the scars.

I love it, and am going to have to steal it Sholto

I don't have the rulebook with me, and wouldn't want to guess at the answer. Go here and select Templates and Tokens. I don't know if Wyrd are going to make any actual models (would be v cool if they did) but in the meantime you can use blank 30mm bases or just print out those tokens (thick, glossy photo paper would be best). Sholto

The nipples have been the subject of much discussion in my gaming group. Yeah - tells you all you need to know about my gaming group Although a couple of people have suggesting rouge-ing them up a little, I'm not too keen on large man-nips, and would prefer to keep them low key. I am certainly not about to follow the most recent suggestion, which was to make and attach tassels...

Damn. They're supposed to be brass, aren't they? Or copper. Let's pretend they are, for now Sholto

That's exactly what I was planning on doing for these little guys, and your execution is superb. Great job

You could paint crackling lightning on it, but without some kind of OSL effect, I doubt it would look right. An alternative would be to get a transparent hemisphere of the right size (a pen lid springs to mind) and model some lightning inside it. Tricky, but would convey the plasma-globe effect. Sholto

The pieces for the scrap counters come from Robogears kits. I got a load from Ebay a couple of years ago, so they keep turning up in kitbashes and terrain. Great for Orky buildings and junkheaps. The arm in the corpse counter is an arm from the GW Catachan Heavy Weapons team sprue, painted to look zombie-like. Sholto

Thanks. I tried to improve on my painting of red with his guns - I might try and do a whole figure in red one of these days! The tutorial on Necrotales.com has me inspired. I spent some extra time shading and highlighting his skin, as well as applying various glazes to blend it all together. Next time I will start with a redder base colour - Tallarn Flesh is just a little too brown for the effect I was after.

My latest reinforcement for my Ortega crew:- C&C very welcome - I am trying to improve Sholto

I am in the middle of painting my Gunslinger, and I have to agree the model is great. Full of character and fun to paint. The only Wyrd model I have wanted to change so far is Teddy - I plan on using the Heresy Snow Troll for the body and doing a head swap/ GS the heart on his chest. Sholto

Nice shading on the heart, and I love the gums and the black-edged teeth - they look properly horrible. Sholto

These were fun (and quick) to make. Before painting:- And after (pic is a bit dark):- C&C welcome. Sholto

Thank you, sir The Guild one will make a nice, big belly tattoo for my Executioner! Sholto

I know the forum software has GIFs for the Rams, Tomes, Crows and Masks, but are there any other, larger, higher-resolution image files available? The reason I ask is I want to print some out on transfer paper for my models. Sholto

When you make a brush stroke (unless your paint is thick enough to be either completely opaque and/ or unable to flow on the mini) the thinnest layer of paint is left where the brush touches the mini and thickest amount is left where the brush is lifted off the mini. If you are using thinned paint, ie. translucent paint that will allow the colour beneath to show through, this means that the start of your brush stroke will be more translucent than the end. You can see how this helps your highlighting or shading since each brush stroke is always ending either in the middle of your highlight or in the middle of the shaded portion. The other thing I would say is that your painting style is quite different from my own. I go for much less contrast in my minis, while you go for a high contrast approach - neither is right or wrong, of course, but bear in mind that my comments in my previous post are coming from the perspective of my own style, and may not entirely suit a high-contrast painting style. EDIT: By the way, where did you get the Steamborg base? It looks similar to the Deus Ex Machina resin inserts from Ironhalo.net. Sholto

Devlan Mud is a little too dark for that flesh tone - Ogryn Flesh is better, or a mix of the two. I agree your skin shading is too dark and you need to transition more. A couple of tips to help: 1. Thin your paint. When shading (or highlighting) always work with thinned paint. Thin it down to a 4:1 water:paint mix. Load your brush, and then drag it across a paper towel to discharge most of the paint - you don't want that flooding across your model. Once the brush has only a little paint left (so that it will stay where you put it) you can apply it to the model. The thinness of the paint will make it translucent, so that the base skin tone underneath will show through, aiding the transition. It also helps to have your brush strokes going in the right direction - when highlighting stroke towards the highlight, when shading stroke towards the shadowed part. 2. Colours. To ensure a good transition a good place to start is with your basic skin colour, and think of your highlight colour as being that basic skin colour + something lighter, and your shade colour as being that basic skin colour + something darker. For example, if I am using Tallarn Flesh as my basic skin colour, I might mix Tallarn Flesh 50/50 with some Pale Flesh for my highlight. For my shade, I might mix it 50/50 with some dark brown colour, or even a dark blue. For brighter highlights or deeper shadows just add more of your highlight or shade colour. Lastly, a final watered down wash of your basic skin colour (very watered down - aka a glaze) will help to tie together your shading and highlights, although you might need to go back over some of your extreme highlights again just to make them pop. Sholto

Sounds like it's going to be a good league. It always seems liked this when I read Malifaux batreps - it looks bad for one side, but can swing the other way at very short notice

Thanks You're right about the gun - it needs something. Darker shading on the red, probably. I will apply some Mechrite Red/ Black mix in the deeper parts, and maybe try a Thraka Green wash as well. The skintone was fairly simple. White primer, then a thin coat of watered down (1:1) GW Foundation Tallarn Flesh. Then unthinned GW Ogryn Flesh wash, applied heavily enough to pool but not to run. After that I mixed some Tallarn Flesh and some Vallejo Pale Flesh about 1:1, watered it down about 3:1 and applied highlights. Final highlight was with another Tallarn Flesh/ Pale Flesh mix, about 1:2 this time. All watering of the paints was done with Liquitex Flow Aid and my special ingredient - a tiny dab of washing up liquid Just touch the tip of the brush in some before you stir your paint. Sholto

Pics aren't showing for me. (although I can see the one on Page 1 of this thread, and it's awesome with a jar of pickled awesome, so I hope you get the other pics fixed soon) Sholto

Brilliant looking crew

Lovely work - the colours are perfect. I like the Gunslinger model, but I also like di la Rovissi, now - choices, choices

Wow - that looks like a comic book come to life Love it! Sholto

I tried to match the card art for this model as closely as possible, down to the little floral pattern on her jacket and trousers. I wanted the gun to stand out, so it got a red cylinder, and I like blue hair - those are the only changes. I think together they give the model a slightly more comic-book feel. The sword was bent all to heck when I got the model, so the paintjob is meant to detract from the relative shapelessness. On the jacket and trousers, I tried deepening the colours by using a Baal Red wash before the Devlan Mud went on. I think it worked pretty well. Her base (to which she is pinned though one of her high heels) is a resin Deus Ex Machina 30mm insert from Ironhalo.net. It is intricately detailed and while I could have spent a long time on it, I kept it simple to allow the model to shine. Here is a closer shot of it all painted up - dark metal colours, with a Flesh Wash and pigments for the rust.