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Breten

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Everything posted by Breten

  1. I have played all of these in the last year. Strange Aeons Hell Dorado Malifaux Uncharted Seas Infinity Alkemy Wargods of take your pick Warhammer Fantasy Warhammer 40K Battlefleet Gothic Warmaster Epic Armageddon Mordheim Necromunda Man O' War Space Hulk (1st Ed and current) War of the Ring Blood Bowl Played a little Magic her and there and a few boardgames including: Tannhauser Dust Prophecy Ticket to Ride Europe I haven't touched Warmachine since before Christmas, and don't see myself stepping back into it.
  2. $11 for shipping to Canada is a rip off though. Seriously.
  3. I must have this mini, she's awesome. edit: So I had just enough in my Paypal account to order her. $26.42 CAN. Worth every penny I am sure. She'll be a bit tall at 35mm, but I plan on using her in Strange Aeons games.
  4. I just scanned the 2 pages and printed them out myself.
  5. I just ordered Leveticus, Rusty Alyce, Steamborg Execution and the Necropunks. I think the Necropunks will benefit a lot from Blessings of Desolation, which will give them double crows on the combat score, letting them have both the Rot Trigger and the Desolation Warping. Theoretically letting you Summon Steampunk Abominations much easier.
  6. I haven't really read this thread yet, but I just ordered my Leveticus list this evening. I ordered: Leveticus Rusty Alyce Steamborg Executioner Necropunks Which Works out to 27 SS. I think the Necropunks will be awesome with Levi. The already have CB with Croows, and with Levis' Blessing of Desolation, they get that second Crow suit, so they can trigger Rot or Desolation Warping. Unless they can use both Triggers, as I can't remember right now if it's all Triggers or one. Either way, I think they'll be a really good fit with Leveticus. The Steamborg Executioner doesn't seem to have the synergy, but he's there because of the similar look to the Necropunks.
  7. It's not just on the Wyrd minis, as in my case.
  8. Well, bite my shiny metal ass. I so need that.
  9. Similar situation. Oredered a model that was in stock, then recieved an e-mail a month later telling me it was out of stock. Showed up a month after that.
  10. One of my buddies has been doing some on my forum: Here's his latest, painting Expressive faces and Eyes: http://s2.excoboard.com/exco/thread.php?forumid=75510&threadid=2110085 Here's the first part: As I'm working on my current Hell Dorado commission, I thought it would be a good idea to post some process pictures, and do a tutorial for those wondering how I go about things, and how I go about painting expressive faces and eyes. I get asked about my faces quite a bit, and this particular mini has an excellent face which I could use to demonstrate my techniques. It's the Damned One of Pride from Hell Dorado, and from what I've heard, it's a satire on the current French President, which is likely why this particular face is extremely realistic, and expressive, even without paint. Getting your mini's face and eyes right, and having a good expressive face always helps in providing a focal point for the model, as the human eye automatically is drawn to the eyes and face. We spend most of our lives looking at other people's faces and eyes. It's the first place viewer's look when they observe a person in real life, or sculpted as a miniature. This tutorial is meant to provide anyone with a solid method for getting that expression right, and I'll go into great detail with my techniques for both painting the face, and especially the eyes. Depending on your methods, and the order in which you paint your minis will of course differ from mine, as these are very personal things. But, the best thing is to see how others work, and finding out what will work best for you as an individual artist. This method, and any others I'll post here are for showcase paint jobs, but I'm sure just about any one can afford to learn something new....and I need some practice for the mini painting book I want to eventually write. :cool: I always base all of my minis before I apply paint or primer, as I can get a better idea of what the final product will look like, and I can put it down, rotate it, and set it amongst terrain to get a very clear picture of where the mini is going during the painting process. For commission work, I will often use Uncle Mike's bases, as it allows me to provide a cheap and easy solution for my clients, and I don't have to sculpt or build a custom base, allowing me to give my clients a good price for the work that I do. Plus, it's free marketing for Uncle Mike's Worldwide too. If a mini doesn't fit on any of Mike's resin bases, I'll just make a custom one, but this doesn't happen that often. But, lately I've been having fun making bases, and I've been doing a lot of my own stuff on custom bases. Commission work will almost always go on Uncle Mike's resin bases. Here's the victim...so to speak. I use Reaper Master Series Black Primer, which is a brush-on type in a dropper bottle. I highly recommend it if you live in a colder climate, or don't have an outdoor, or well ventilated space for priming your miniatures. I've had some terrible luck with sprays, and chemical poisoning some years ago, so I tend not to use sprays of any kind. I start painting my models from the 'deepest' parts, and work outwards. For example, if I'm painting a rotted zombie with bones and muscle exposed, I'll start with the bones, then move onto the muscle, then the skin, clothing, and so-on, working outwards. I don't base coat the entire mini first, as one with 5 years of formal art training under my belt, I don't have a hard time visualizing my scheme before applying paint. The reason I start 'deep' in the mini and work out, is that it allows me to paint neater, and the recesses, and deeper parts of the mini are easier to keep your brush out of as you paint. So, the primer is applied, and you've figured out your scheme, and you're ready to apply paint. I start with the face and skin. Always. It sets the tone for the entire model, and I can then 'build' the rest of the scheme around that. Plus, the face and eyes are the most difficult part of the miniature to paint. Getting the hardest parts out of the way first may frustrate you in the beginning. However, the rest of the paint job will feel easy, and go a lot smoother if the difficult parts are already out of the way. Any feedback on my wording, and descriptive text would be great as I add more to this particular thread. Feel free to hammer me here guys...I'm seriously going to write a book. -Brant
  11. Yeah, O Scale isn't cheap, regualr cars go from $50-100, and the locomotives are double that up to $1000. I'm doing something similar myself.
  12. They re really good actually, especially for the price. O scale isn't exact, but it's the closest. I believe that it's more true 2, than say 28-32mm, but it looks good. O scale can be really expensive though, some full buildings can be in excess of $100.
  13. Apparently Amazon.com stocks it: Amazon.com: O Snap KIT Hobo Jungle: Toys & Games We also bought a western looking house that my girlfriend (common law wife) is converting into "The Lucky Charm", Seamus' whorehouse. This was made by Atlas.
  14. Should be, a couple buddies have rented and recommended it in Canada, and if we have it, you should have it.
  15. Sorry, I didn't even think of that. The connection is it's an ad for Dead Snow. The point? How long will you look at her ass before stopping?
  16. I'm working on a coal mine board. At the moment just collecting components. This weekend I bought, assembled and painted the Hobo Village, which will be used as buildings on the table. ALso nabbed a piece of train rack for said table.
  17. In Canada, we are born with skates and a stick.
  18. The viral campaign for this flick is gnius. http://www.traileraddict.com/trailer/dead-snow/linni-meister-my-ass-uncensored
  19. We've been doing this locally for a few years now. Back when we played a ton of Gangs of Mega-City One, we used a lot of Clix figs as various gangers and personalities. Especially the Judge Dredd figs from IndyClix. I've got a gang made of Predators and we wrote rules for the Aliens.
  20. The 40mm issue could very well be a casting problem that may not be present in all. I only bought one pack of 40's, but since Zoraida goes on a 30 now, I'm not using them for anything. I will be trimming one down for Z's Totem though.
  21. It's a completely different game from what you may have played in the 90's. Heavy Gear Blitz! is the new system, and it's more like a traditional minis game than the Battletech map based game it used to be. Faster, squad based armies, and they seem larger since the game runs faster. I caught a demo at last years GenCon, and have the PDF, but it's one of those ones that I can't get people into.
  22. I PM'ed Grafter about it, and he's the one who physically sold me the inserts at GenCon. BJ was the one who deleted the post and chastised me for making the issue public. Heaven forbid people find out about their horrible customer service, or a bad product.
  23. I have 2 of them, as I find the models to be hit and miss unless you'r a full on Anime fan. That said I love the Bellith figure, I'll be adding her to small collectio of AT figs. Played a demo at GenCon last year, and it wasn't bad. Basically it's like recreating your favourite epic anime battle.
  24. I love the Heresy one, he's fantastic and there's a couple options for him.
  25. The Lashers were previewed a few months ago, but weren't available for sale until GenCon. But yeah, their reputation is less than stellar, which is sad because it's such an awesome game. And I'll 2nd Battlefield Berlin, if only because I am in talks with them right now to bring Strange Aeons nito their store.
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