iconnor1 Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Well me and a few friends were recently introduced to Malifaux at a local game shop and we all are itching to get in on the game! Thinking I will buy a box set tomorrow. What do I need to paint the figures? what is a good paint starter set for mini's? I found a Citadel warhammer fantasy beginner paint set for $25 but that seems pretty steep for what it is. What do you guys recommend? Also I am on the fence on whether to get Seamus' crew or Collodi's crew, but I think that is more of a preference that I will have to decide for myself! will the models assemble right out of the box or do they need putty or something to fit together right? thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonn Agram Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 I have a Seamus box and you won't need any putty or green stuff, so I assume the same is with Collodi (but you know that assumption is the mother of all ... ). As far as choice of crews - that's up to you, I would just suggest you read some of the topics relating to the crews you're interested in in Malifaux Matters subforum. I don't know what kind of player you are, if you want to play to win and therefore the looks of minis are not (so) important or whether you (are like me and) want to play with minis that look cool and then try to be as good as you can... as far as colours, well that's a good question... hmm... when starting out that's the biggest investment in this hobby. until you get big enough choice of colours it'll cost you no matter what. I personally use GW paints (just because my LGS has always had them and now I'm used to them...). I'm not sure whether by WHFB starter painting set you mean a set with a brush, pallette couple of Nightgoblins and a set of small pots. If you do, then I don't recommend it. Better to get 25$ worth of normal paints. For start you'll definetely need Chaos Black, Skull White, Mithril Silver (darker shades can be obtained by mixing mithril silver with chaos black). The new washes are a must (especially for newbie painters). They make your mini look great without any big fuss. so therefore Badab Black, Devlan Mud and Ogryn Flesh. for skin - Dwarf flesh (you can lighten it by adding white) for clothes (no matter what you decide Collodi or Seamus) you'll need some bright colours, I assume... so Blood Red, some sort of blue (I would suggest either Enchanted Blue or maybe better for the crews you mentioned Turquoise Hawk), green (Snot Green), maybe some yellow (Golden Yellow so you can lighten it by adding skull white...) That's eleven colours to start with... maybe add some brown - Bestial Brown to make it a round dozen hope this helps... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huang Da Wei Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 I use Vallejo paints, they are superb and you can buy small startet set reasonably, i agree with gw washes though, definately get badab black and devlan mud Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MunkeyKungFu Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Badab Black & Devlan Mud are the only essential GW paints that you need. I use a mix of Vallejo Game and Model Colour. You have a greater variety of paints, they are in dropper bottles so are much easier to use and you get more paint for less price compared to the GW stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfgar Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 You need a model knife to trim flash off your models, and superglue. Make sure to get a superglue recommended for metals. I use Locktite Gel Control. It's good stuff. Optionally you'll want a needle file (or jewelers file) to trim mold lines. You get that at a hardware store, but they may have it in a kit. You may also want to pin vise (or needle vice). You use it to drill small holes in the model for pinning parts together for added stability. They should sell them at your hobby store. You will need brushes. Get some crappy brushes to practice with first before plopping down for nice brushes. You can learn more about brush quality and care from this forum. You need primer before you paint. I use Krylon Indoor/Outdoor. You don't need a special Citadel primer; a simple cheap primer from the local hardware store will do, but do not use automotive primer. Do wash your models in soap and warm water and scrub them with a toothbrush or similar to clean them before assembling, priming, and painting. Models come with releasing agent stuck to them that will mess up your paint job if you don't. Use to separate water pots-one for your metallic paints, and one for your non-metallic paints. Don't use the same brushes you use for metallic paints with non-metallic paints. You may wish to purchase a micron pen for the purpose of drawing eyes and similar fine details. These should be available and local craft stores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheOneWhoFell Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Common Primer colors for Pewter are: Black, White, and Grey. I prefer a light grey - it gives the colors a more intense color than a black or dark grey, but doesn't give them quite the same pop as white; you can still draw on it (for complex patterns like Harlequin) and do a base of ink to pick out details so you can see them more clearly. I buy my brushes at the local art store. I buy cheap brushes because they get a LOT of abuse. Some would argue that getting more expensive brushes would make the last longer, especially if I took good care of them... unfortunately I'm a) lazy and a creature of habit. When I'm done painting, I just want to rinse my brushes, pack up, and go to bed (I do my best work at night); so the cleaning and scrubbing and conditioning are things that I should do, but don't. More importantly though, I started with cheap brushes, and I always buy the same make of brushes (I replace mine every 3-6 months), becasue I like the results I get with them. Some of my favorite brushes are the kind you'd find in a nail salon... they are super fine and I like the level of detail I get with them. Good Luck with your painting!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harbinger Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 (edited) Not really much to add as lot great advice already been given by many people. I especially echo certain things said... Dont buy the silly GW starter kit. Much better off just spending the same amount on paint and a brush. Only starter kit I would consider is if the lgs carries the reaper starter series and thats just because Im biased towards reaper minis; but at least the price is lot better DO NOT repeat DO NOT buy ANY primer or sealer at a game store. head to walmart and pickup Krylon matt finish and primer (as said can go black, grey, white.. Id suggest as your starting to get the grey because can be used on dark or light color schemes) Paint wise any the normal mini brands GW, Reaper, P3, Vallejo will do you just fine. Just go with whichever brand your local shop carries. Down the road you will find different brands are better for specific colors but not enough to stress about in the beginning. Definitely buy GW washes devlan mud and badab black.. cant be stressed enough. Brush, for ease Id say just grab 2 GW brushes at the shop. They will work just fine for a new painter and not that expensive. You might save a bit going to a art store but youd lose the savings in gas money Dont think youll need to pin either the box sets your looking at (though I play all crews cept ressers so not 100% sure on Seamus) so wont need a pin vice yet. Unless your cutting them off the tab and getting fancy with basing which really you shouldnt first crew... Also as said you will eventually want some micro files but Wyrd minis are pretty good about flash (mold) lines, so if got and xacto laying around the house skip the expense at first. Glue wise just about any super glue type will work. The zap-a-gap they probably sell at the shop is a good product, just a tad pricey. Im a creature of habit and generally just use it. PS.. excuse my horrid spelling and grammar, using a smart phone to reply. hell who am I kidding.. I slept thru all my high school and college English classes. Edited February 8, 2012 by harbinger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustcrusher Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Optionally you'll want a needle file (or jewelers file) to trim mold lines. You get that at a hardware store, but they may have it in a kit. I would say get one now- needle files are not that expensive. If you aren't sure about buying one, try an emery board first. Also, Testors sanding films are great for getting into hard to reach areas where a knife or needle file won't fit. If you get a pin/needle vise, get some steel cutters, too- the ones that look like wire cutters but can handle stronger stuff. I got tired of looking for the right kind so I caved and bought the Gale Force Nine heavy duty cutters- pricey but they will handle anything you need to cut including coat hangers, paper clips, and other pinning materials. Brass rod is the standard, but why buy if you have an abundance of alternatives just sitting around the house? Not sure what else to add other than +1 for Vallejo paints, Reaper's Learn to Paint Kits, and art store brushes to start. If you are making good progress with learning to paint but hit a wall, that's the time to look at better brushes. Cheap brushes are great for traveling paint kits too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconnor1 Posted February 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Wow lots of good information, I was kind of expecting to get flamed. Anyways! So I like the idea of necromancy so I think I'm going to buy Seamus' crew tonight. so as far as paint goes, at a minimum I should get: -a couple GW brushes -a standard primer from walmart (probably gray krylon) -Badab Black and Devlan Mud washes -black, white, silver, brown, +other brighter colors. Do you think about 12 citadel paints would last if me and 2 or 3 other friends each got a crew and shared the paint? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wings Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 You definitely won't run out of paint; you might get bored of the colours you have or feel you all look to similar. Work out what colour schemes you and your friends want before you buy the paint and see how far you all coincide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustcrusher Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 (edited) Honestly, no. Paint goes fast, especially when you're learning. EDIT: this depends on the paint, of course. I had GW paint in mind when I typed this, as it seems to either dry out or run out far more quickly than Vallejo, Reaper, or my ancient GW paints from when they were awesome. If you want to share, Vallejo or other dropper bottle paints are more conducive to that since you'll need a palette to mix on anyway. Oh yes, forgot about the palette. Don't forget that and toothpicks for mixing paints. Cheap palettes are available at art stores (seriously, the two dollar plastic ones are fine), but you could use an old kitchen tile, plate, or another easily cleaned, non-porous smooth surface that will never be used for anything else (I don't really need to tell you not to use your food plates as palettes, do I? :-P) Edited February 9, 2012 by Dustcrusher Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconnor1 Posted February 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 I wouldn't really want a color scheme for my crew, I think the belles should all be very different. So do the citadel paints mix well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
*Jack* Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 I don't think you need a couple of brushes, maybe 1 or 2? and yeah, washes are great. I'd recommend vallejo paints though, theyre cheaper and wwaaayy better in my opinion. Feel free to try other brands eventually and make your own decision, but yeah, I love vallejo, having used many brands. As for paints... Black, white, grey. (codex or similar for grey, easy to darken with black). Metal? I like gw's boltgun metal for pretty much everything :L Whatever colour you want his coat to be. A brown. I like bestial brown and its vallejo equivalent. Badab black and devlan mud. In addition, if you're sharing them, a red, blue and yellow might be useful. Wargaming is an expensive hobby, especially starting out :L but buying vallejo and getting it from online discounters, in addition to playing skirmish games like malifaux (Which are waaaay more fun) than mass battle games, the cost is stomachable :L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconnor1 Posted February 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Yeah I am a poor college student so cost is a big thing for me. I just want myself and a few friends to get some Crews, paint them up nicely and play. Then if I like it I could get more into it from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backno Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) Wow lots of good information, I was kind of expecting to get flamed. Anyways! So I like the idea of necromancy so I think I'm going to buy Seamus' crew tonight. so as far as paint goes, at a minimum I should get: -a couple GW brushes -a standard primer from walmart (probably gray krylon) -Badab Black and Devlan Mud washes -black, white, silver, brown, +other brighter colors. Do you think about 12 citadel paints would last if me and 2 or 3 other friends each got a crew and shared the paint? -To give you an idea of how little paint you use per mini: I have basecoated and highlighted over 120 Ork Boyz with 1 bottle of Vallejo Sick Green. That bottle is still about half full... -as for the GW brushes: Either go to a place like Hobby Lobby or other arts and crafts store and buy brushes there OR go online and buy some actual good brushes. The cheap arts and crafts brushes are nice because when (not if) you do something that ruins them you are not out a bunch of money. You just toss them and grab another one. The advantages of the nicer brushes is that if you treat them well they will last years and years and years. They also will hold a point better and be more consistent then the cheap brushes. - As for picking some colors to start go digging around online and find pictures of your crew and try to find a color scheme that you like. You can then use that picture to give a good starting point of what paints you need. I will also list some of my favorite goto colors. These are very flexible colors and I find that I use them often: Games Workshops paints: *Devlan Mud *Badab Black *Gryphonne Sepia *Foundation Paints in Red and Yellow These are called "liquid talent" for a reason. By simply basecoating with a color, washing it, and then taking that same base color and using it as your first highlight gives you 3 different colors on the mini AND helps make everything pop. The foundation paints make some colors like yellow and red much, much, much, much easier to paint. P3 Paints *Coal Black *Menoth White Base *Menoth White Highlight Coal Black is actually a very, very, very deep purple. What you us this for is as a replacement to pure black. This lets you use washes and is just an easier color to work with. The two whites are what I use instead of a "pure" white. They look more realistic, and mix better/won't***** kill your color****** ****** Start Paint Nerd Talk****** This is going to be something that is a bit advanced, but it was a tip that I was told several years ago and found my minis started looking much better. Using a pure black or a pure white to darken/brighten a color via mixing can make your colors very flat and stark. If you instead use a dark purple/dark blue or a white that has some yellow in it makes the colors look more realistic and less "fake". I actually have not used a pure white or pure black in several years because every time I do I think the color just looks ugly. So play around with it and see what works for you. ****** End Painting Nerd Talk***** Vallejo Paints * everything else I have found these to be my favorite paints to use overall. Good color selection, good coverage, easy to mix consistently, etc. - Try to find a local store with a good group of miniature players. You will be surprised how much free advice and stuff you can get just by being a poor person interested in the hobby. Even just going to the store with the goal of painting stuff regularly can save you having to buy some of the colors you only need a drop or 2 of. Edited February 9, 2012 by Backno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconnor1 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 How does one wash a figure? do you paint it with the wash selectively, or dip it into wash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolfgar Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 I've been dipping a brush in the wash and then wiping it over the figure. it seems to me otherwise the wash just gets all over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Todd Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 How does one wash a figure? do you paint it with the wash selectively, or dip it into wash? Dipping is a method usually reserved for assembly line painting of rank and file models (GW Fantasy). Companies like Army painter make products that are useful for this. In my opinion Malifaux models deserve a little more care and effort since you have so few to actually paint. To use washes, load a brush with more wash than you would paint, and use it to apply the wash to areas of the miniature you want shading. You can use the brush to move the wash around, apply more, or even soak up excess. The idea is to fill the crevices of the model with a darker tone, creating shading. Don't use too much, it will take some trial and error to get the process down. GW's washes are great (devlan mud, badab black). You can even make your own by mixing liquid matte medium with a little water, and the paint color of your choice. There are many recipes you can find on the internet, do a search and check out the results. ---------- Post added at 11:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:23 PM ---------- I got tired of looking for the right kind so I caved and bought the Gale Force Nine heavy duty cutters- pricey but they will handle anything you need to cut including coat hangers, paper clips, and other pinning materials. Brass rod is the standard, but why buy if you have an abundance of alternatives just sitting around the house? You use your modeling clippers to cut coat hangers!?! *shock* On the topic of files, I tend to use mine very little. Pretty much only when I need a flat surface or sharp angle cleaned. I find that 220 grit sandpaper works great in its place. Just cut it into small pieces (1"x2" or 2"x2"). You can fold it to get fresh sharp edges, curves, whatever. The flex of the material helps with getting into the contours of the model better. As long as you use 220 or finer there are no apparent markings in the metal after priming. I tend to buy the small packs meant for palm sanders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demonn Agram Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) How does one wash a figure? do you paint it with the wash selectively, or dip it into wash? ok, here is what I recommend to all the newbies in my local club: when starting painting the most important thing (and I can't stress it enough) is to be precise! so if your hand slips and paints over something already painted (i.e. when painting skin on a model's hand and it goes over the sleeve), repaint the messed up part. It takes time but is worth it because the end result isn't messy. and in consequence once you improve your skills you can easily go back to your first minis and with a couple more layers/highlights can immensely improve the looks of your model. The other most important thing is not to let your colours be thick. use thin layers! take your time and rather use two or three thin layers than one thick one. otherwise your model will loose some details as the colour will inevitably fill some of the recesses... but back to basics. so first thing you do is undercoat the model - using primer (white or black, whatever your choice). in my experience you won't get the primer in all the recesses of the models so you'll have to finish undercoating by hand (i.e. brush and white or black colour) then basecoat all the parts of the mini in their colours - so boots in brown, clothes in whatever colour you like, skin in flesh (Dwarf flesh if you use Citadel colours) and metal parts in metal colour (Mithril Silver/Chainmail - boltgun metal is a bit dark for my taste and can be made by adding some black to the two lighter shades (MS or C)). again stressing - if you miss with your brush - go back and correct the mistake! it is worth it, trust me... afterwards, wash your mini. Basicly you can do all the minis with Badab Black or Devlan Mud (choose whichever you like more) EXCEPT the skin - but don't dip it, use the brush! wash the skin in Ogryn Flesh (that's how I do mine (see my avatar to the left) - I know some people wash with Devlan Mud but I find it a bit too dirty looking). Now you're done washing.. the final step would be adding a highlight (for rookies I suggest only one highlight) go back to the original colours and paint the raised parts. agian, if you miss - go back to basecoat and wash and redo the mistake... and that's it. by the end of this process you should have a nice looking mini... Edited February 9, 2012 by Demonn Agram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 afterwards, wash your mini. Basicly you can do all the minis with Badab Black or Devlan Mud (choose whichever you like more) EXCEPT the skin - but don't dip it, use the brush! wash the skin in Ogryn Flesh (that's how I do mine (see my avatar to the left) - I know some people wash with Devlan Mud but I find it a bit too dirty looking). Now you're done washing...I, too, use Ogryn Flesh. I've tried P3 Flesh Wash a few times, and I don't care for the effect. (I've used Elf Flesh as a wash when I'm doing very pale skin. And I used Devlan Mud on my Warmachine Privateers Sea Dogs, as I wanted them to look dirty, but that's a tale for another time.) The point is: Ogryn Flesh is the best flesh wash I've come across. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustcrusher Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 This thread has lots of good advice so far. I find it sad that no one else seems to appreciate this article: http://www.kan.org/michael/mkp/paynes_grey.php Granted, it takes a little effort to make the Payne's Grey wash vs. buying a GW one, but once you get the formula down it works well. I forgot to post pics of them, but cheap skeleton minis are an excellent way to practice washing and shading. I will probably make a few more before I start my crews in earnest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iconnor1 Posted February 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 (edited) the final step would be adding a highlight (for rookies I suggest only one highlight) go back to the original colours and paint the raised parts. agian, if you miss - go back to basecoat and wash and redo the mistake... by the end of this process you should have a nice looking mini... Thanks for all the tips, so if I mess up you recommend just priming over the entire figure again and starting over? or am I misunderstanding? won't the paint layers pile up too much? Also I think I just realized everyone's Seamus bases are different. Does the box not include base inserts? will I have to make my own? Edited February 9, 2012 by iconnor1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 http://www.kan.org/michael/mkp/paynes_grey.php I hope I can find that stuff in a hobby shop, the town I live is utterly devoid of art shops. This is awesome, I had never heard of this before. This is definitely going in the toolbox. EDIT: He means to just repaint that one area with the basecoat and wash, not to start from scratch. (I hope.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jewomie Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Thanks for all the tips, so if I mess up you recommend just priming over the entire figure again and starting over? or am I misunderstanding? won't the paint layers pile up too much? Also I think I just realized everyone's Seamus bases are different. Does the box not include base inserts? will I have to make my own? I'm guessing he means to just re-paint the mistake... but.... If you want to start over on a mini, an overnight in a bath of simple green will take the paint right off and leave your mini looking good as new. of course, i think everyone on here uses something different to strip their minis but i like simple green due to it being really gentle on the pieces. Paint thinner works too, but i left a terror tot in there too long and now he's somewhat ... porous... lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 Simple Green works best, but Pine-Sol will work in a pinch (it takes about 1.5 times as long, though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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