New to painting, would appreciate pointers!

[KitKatKat]

I just recently have gotten into painting miniatures with my Ortega crew, and I must admit I'm swiftly on the way to becoming obsessive.

I was wondering if anyone had advice on which kinds brushes to use, brush care tips, and particular tips for a newbie using Citadel paints including tips for mixing, keeping paint usable longer while on the palate and painting techniques that a newbie can easily use.

I have checked out other threads, but I have yet to find the kind of advice I need on brush types. I would especially appreciate brush brands and exact sizes.

[Demonn Agram]

first check this thread: http://www.wyrd-games.net/showthread.php?27978-A-dilema-Need-help-with-Brushes

there is quite a lot of good advice regarding brushes...

also, searching for this I found an interesting topic on varnishes: http://www.wyrd-games.net/showthread.php?28420-What-varnish-to-use you might want to check...

for longer lasting colour try the wet pallette method. I'll try to explain but googling it will help also . What I do (in summer months when it's really hot) is I get a small bowl and add some water in - about 3mm deep. in it I place a sponge (from blisters - GW or clams Wyrd). over it I place a piece of baking paper and use it as a pallette. The nsponge sucks in the water, and the moisture keeps your colours from drying (almost entire day at temperatures of 30˙C +).. hope this helps a bit..

[Varagon]

Quality brushes are important if you take care of them. The point, even on size 3, are sharper than cheap brushes, they hold paint better, and lay down paint smoother.

Their are at least two companies that people swear by..and more I'm sure:

Rapheal

Windsor and Newton S7

I use a W&NS7 size 2 almost predominantly, go to a 1 or 0 on fewer occasions as the points are just amazing.

[Cadilon]

I don't think there is one thread or even one forum that can give you everything you need as a new painter. Its like anything else: you get out of it what you put into it. I'd spend some time browsing this forum, CoolMiniOrNot, miniature painting tutorials on Youtube, and anything else you can get your hands on. Just consuming every scrap of knowledge you can get will really pay off in the future. I purchased the Hot Lead dvd instructional videos and found them very helpful. I am not a great painter, but I am pleased with my results and I wouldn't be near as advanced if I hadn't watched those dvds.

To give my opinion on some of your questions:

• You are probably not ready for the 'nice' brushes mentioned already. You are still learning technique and how to hold the brush. You will likely get just as good a result from a $3 Michael's Crafts brush as you would a $15 Kolinsky Sable. And for that price you can get a number of different sizes to find out what you like. Remember, even a larger brush can have a nice sharp tip.
  
• I second the wet palette. I swear by mine. I bought a $3 Pyrex glass baking dish with an airtight lid. I put some felt down and then cover with baking paper. I've put the lid on and come back the next day and still used the same paint. Its a little watery by then, but still can get the job done in some situations.
  
• I think just starting out, learning dry brushing and playing around with washes (especially Citadel washes) will take you a long way.
  

It sounds like you are really into your Ortegas (THE best box set, IMHO). If you have time to take a break from them, you might pick up a couple of cheap models, like from Reaper, where you can just go a little crazy experimenting. Its a good way to loosen up.

Finally, don't underestimate basing. A nice, well thought out base can take a so-so paint job and make it turn heads. Thats my strategy, actually. =) I see so many nice paint jobs sitting on top of plain static grass. With a little effort, a nice base can really make those models pop.

Have fun! A nice paint job makes this game MUCH more interesting. Anyway, thats my opinion.

Edited February 7, 2012 by Cadilon

[Wings]

For brushes, Rosemary and Co are pretty good and much cheaper than something like Windsor and Newton (they're mentioned in the thread Demonn linked). I think Series 99 Pointed Pure Red Sable, and Series 33 Pointed Pure Kolinsky Sable are the two that tend to be recommended. I know I've got some but can't remember which ones.

[dsmiles]

I'll go ahead and say it, since nobody has it quoted in their signature anymore.

Washes. They're like talent in a jar.

[Mako]

For brushes, Rosemary and Co are pretty good and much cheaper than something like Windsor and Newton (they're mentioned in the thread Demonn linked). I think Series 99 Pointed Pure Red Sable, and Series 33 Pointed Pure Kolinsky Sable are the two that tend to be recommended. I know I've got some but can't remember which ones.

Definitely. Rosemary makes awesome brushes, and they're half the price of W+N! I actually use the series 22, but I know a lot of people use 33s.

And as people have said, start simply with neat paintwork, drybrushing and washing. Then when you're settled to that, move on to using several layers of shades and highlights. Also, don't overload your brushes and thin your paints - never paint straight from the bottle! Wet palettes help you keep your colours easy to work with (though for quick bits of painting I don't always bother).

And a nice base that complements the model does help a lot. Don't skimp on the effort there.

[harbinger]

Da Vinci Maestro kolinsky brushes brushes are the cats meow when comes to brushes. Dickblick is a good supplier and far as sizes 000, 0 and 1 would give you a nice range. That being said, Cadilon makes an excellent point. I bought these and it did not turn me into a miracle artist. The highend painters could wet blend with a Qtip and put out award winners. (though there is no way I could go back to cheap brushes now)

as to brush care... MonaLisa pink soap. Only thing youll ever need to know.

[striker8]

From the looks of things you're picking things up. I can't say it too much, you have to understand the basics, dry brushing, layering, keeping the paint where it belongs, etc. Once you get those down it will click and the advanced techniques will follow. One thing I see from your pictures is the lack of contrast to your painting, the later show improvment so you're getting there.

For brushes decent craft store brushes are fine for most people. No need to spend $15+ on high end brushes untill you get to a point you'll actually use them to their potential and not destroy them. And destroying them is easy to do! Try a samttering of different craft level brushes untill you find the sizes and types that work for you I'd say to start some brushes running from 2 round on the large end then something with a good point around 0 or smaller for details, either natural or synthetic bristle. I paint mostly display level mini's for comission and most of my general use brushes are synthetic ones around $3 a pop with my freehand and detail brushes being natural bristle in the $5 to $10 range. I tried the high end ones and destroyed them to quickly for it to be economic for me.

Too keep your brushes clean I recomend an actual brush cleanning jar, one with some form of insert to help open the brush up a bit while rinseing( I like the coil type inserts but have used the ones with a brush in the bottom), and some acrylic brush cleaner for a now and then deep cleaning along with a non silicone hair conditioner or an actual brush soap if your using natural brushes . Remember never jab the brush in the rinse jar to clean it, stroke it accoss the bottom or insert!

To keep the paint workable longer you can go with a wet pallet and/or try one of the drying retarders available. I use both depending on the job. You can buy a nice wet pallet for around $20 at most craft store or you can make your own. For retarder you can get gel or fluid versions, I use both depending on what I'm doing, The gel you mix directly into the paint on your pallet and the fluid I put in my thinning water. Again Craft stores tend to have them both, I've used both Golden, and liquitex.

[KitKatKat]

Thanks to everyone who has responded! Once I get enough time, I'll definitely take a look into the products you have all recommended. The brush cleaner will be a godsend, as will the wet pallet. I custom mix most of my own colors, so I spend an eternity matching colors when I have to remix.

---------- Post added at 09:14 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:12 AM ----------

I have been trying to use thinner layers, but I have run into a bit of a problem: the pigment in the paints tend to gravitate towards the edges of the area I paint, so I end up with what looks like watermarks. It's a bit difficult to describe, but if you know what I'm talking about, how would you recommend avoiding this problem?

[Mako]

Use less paint on your brush would be my first thought. If the pigment has enough liquid to move about, there's too much there. Your brush should basically look like it has a tinted tip rathen than be visibly loaded with paint, and you should be laying down very little actual liquid onto the model when you put the brush against it.

Another thought would be to use a matt medium to dilute your paints, if you're using water or flow improver then you can get this problem due to the paint getting very runny. Media keep the viscosity a little more constant while diluting out the pigments.

Hope that helps.

[dsmiles]

Oooooo...looky what I was shown:

http://www.kan.org/michael/mkp/index.php