A.D Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 OK guys I've ordered a load a' Ramos stuff and the Kaeris box and I'm thinking of using a heavily worn down brass as the base metallic color for the crews. tye question is quite simple- How should I go about painting this???!! Tutorials and pictures will be much appreciated! many thanks, A.D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruglyother Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 I've actually been working with this as well. I dug through a bunch of tutorials, and wasn't satisfied with what I found. So, I figured out my own method by studying images of the look I wanted. I use only GW paints, so all colors ar GW. I base the area I want in regal blue. I then stipple on a generous amount of scaly green. I follow this with a lighter stippling of vile green. Lastly, I lightly stipple dwarf bronze, and carefully edge highlight any key spots where I think there might be more wear. You'll have to play with it a bit to get the effect you want depending on how far along you want the oxidation to be. I'd post pictures for you, but I haven't managed to take any good ones yet. I'll try to correct this in the near future. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fetid Strumpet Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 (edited) I tend to paint the area with a base coat of Dwarf Bronze. Once dry I give the whole area a watered down (3:1) mix of Thrakka Green GW wash. Once this is dry I mix up a batch of my special wash for this. A mix of GW Shadow Grey: Snot Green : and Water (1/1/3) and I apply this into the crevasses of the metal. Seems to work well for me. Edited November 12, 2011 by Fetid Strumpet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 I prefer to weather using powders. Verdigris: Vallejo Earth & Oxide Pigments #73112 Chrome Oxide Green Rust: Secret Weapon Rust Brown And my secret stash of Doc O'Brien's Weathering Powders, found here: http://www.micromark.com/Doc-OBriens-Weathering-Powders-Set-of-12-Colors,7798.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guynamedFleck Posted November 12, 2011 Report Share Posted November 12, 2011 This kind of metal is the base for most of my Warhammer 40k ork army. The process is fairly straight forward, it just takes a few extra steps. Start with a black base coat (primer). First drybrush with Dwarf Bronze followed by a drybrush of Boltmetal Gun. Then give it a wash with a mixture of Thraka Green and Asurmen Blue (I mix up the washes about 50/50 and then water this down about 4 to 1). By drybrushing, you really get a nice and worn out metal effect. Then the wash will really pull out the verdigris effect, watered down it really hits the recesses and tends to pull in the large flat surfaces. If you feel it needs more "brass" you can always reverse the drybrush order or do a second drybrush of brass over the top of the wash. I tried to find a good shot of the finished product for you, but it seems I haven't taken any, haha. This tank uses a similar process, but is perhaps less "brass" than what you are shooting for. It should still give you the general idea though. Hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lordgimpet Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 I use a similar process. but what i did for the pic below is. Painted shining gold over a black basecoat. wash in Devlan Mud wash and let dry. then I watered down Hawk turquoise so it was practicaly water. and applied that to the recesses around fixtures and where I felt the Verdigis would build up. I had to do two some times 3 coats as needed. then to add some variation I would mix a dash of Dark angels green to chage the hue and apply but only in some of the places i had been before to keep the effect varied and interesting. Once done I lightly dribrushed chainmail on parts indicating wear.. end result. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 (edited) This is the best tutorial I ever found for painting brass. The guy has a Youtube channel as well, and he used the technique on there in painting a Warhammer cauldron (of blood, I think). He also paints a lot of Malifaux stuff on Youtube. This is his work: And here was my go at following the tutorial: Edited November 13, 2011 by Sholto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saint Norton Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 Very nicely done on this last one. It ends up with a very realistic feel, like the chalky look to the verdigris is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backno Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 Here is how I got all my brass/bronze for my doomwheel http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=400020&pIndex=4&aId=6000022a&multiPageMode=true&start=5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritz the cat Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 im partial to the P3 brass balls for my base colour, sadly ive been told its not around anymore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 im partial to the P3 brass balls for my base colour, sadly ive been told its not around anymore The rumor of Brass Balls' death has been greatly exaggerated. (They just had a bad batch.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vin Posted November 13, 2011 Report Share Posted November 13, 2011 @dsmiles - not to highjack a thread, but how do you find the Doc O'Brien powders compared to something like Secret weapon. I purchased some SW powders, but I've been gun shy about smearing my minis with pigments. I never used them before. I saw the Doc powders in the Micro-Mark catalog and at their price point I'd be more keen on testing away on terrain before I try on my actual minis. As for verdigris, I've used the hawk turquoise method myself. While some practice is needed to get a feel for how watery yo need the wash. You can get some nice results. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruglyother Posted November 14, 2011 Report Share Posted November 14, 2011 I find it depends on how tarnished you want it to look. I went for a fully tarnished look with only a little of the metal still showing through. (Look at many of the really old statues, like the Statue of liberty.) For some reason it appeals to me. I do like the effects that have been shown, but I find that they can be lost on smaller miniatures. I actually started off using the washed method. But if you do any other type of painting, the effect sort of disappears, espescially on smallr miniatures. (I've been doing necrons, and scarabs were pointless.) Good luck either way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.