Assembly help

[WECIII]

Just (finally after much procrastination) got my first set, Seamus and his ladies of the undead night. How do I assemble them? This is my first wargame venture, and I am not totally sure how to put them todether. Super gule? Some kind of modeling epoxy? Help?

Also, what paints are recommended? I have some Reaper white paint-on primer (bad weather + nowhere to spray safely in an apartment = paint-on primer), but want to know what is "best" or at least good to use on these after the primer.

Finally, assemble first, then prime/paint, or paint first, then assemble? Also, I'm thinking basing last, but wanted to check on that too.

Sorry for all the noob questions; I just want to try to get these models looking good as possible for a first attempt.

Thanks in advance!

Bill

[Iamwyrd]

I would just use super glue. If you can find zap-a-gap super glue, I would highly recommend it. I've used it for seven years now and it has never failed my yet. Also make sure to file off any noticeable mold lines in the minis before painting them.

As for primer I use spray primer, called army painter. Awesome stuff. Bit since you can't use spray primer I would recommend P3 black or white for paint on priming. They are both very cost efficient and work Well.

Hope this helps, and happy modeling.

Iamwyrd

[hijynx]

+1 on the Zap-a-gap, that stuff is great. I use zip kicker or green/grey stuff for the real pain in the *** joints sometimes too.

[nerdelemental]

Just (finally after much procrastination) got my first set, Seamus and his ladies of the undead night. How do I assemble them? This is my first wargame venture, and I am not totally sure how to put them todether. Super gule? Some kind of modeling epoxy? Help?

Congrats. Welcome to the fold.

Get some basic super glue. Start with the metal parts and you'll likely want to wash them under water to remove the mold release that on them. Makes the glue stick faster and better.

Squirt a tiny drop of superglue on one side of the connection joint and then press the other piece to it. Hold them together for about a count of 30, give or take.

Be patient. Watch a movie you already know while you assemble. Smaller amount of glue is better than a lot for a good and solid connection, though that's counter-intuitive.

Also, what paints are recommended? I have some Reaper white paint-on primer (bad weather + nowhere to spray safely in an apartment = paint-on primer), but want to know what is "best" or at least good to use on these after the primer.

That's a HUGE question. Very debatable and you'll have many and varied opinions.

The hobby paints you'll get at the same store that sells minis should have several names and they'll all have their proponents.

I like P3, Vallejo, Reaper.

Finally, assemble first, then prime/paint, or paint first, then assemble? Also, I'm thinking basing last, but wanted to check on that too.

Another highly debatable topic!

As a beginner I'd advise just building a model entirely and prime and then paint. You'll know when your painting skills demand that you do it differently.

Basing depends on how you're basing. For almost everything I do I'd say you could base and paint it all at once. Only when you're doing something that never gets paint on it like grass flock or fake snow - put it all together at once and start slinging paint.

Sorry for all the noob questions; I just want to try to get these models looking good as possible for a first attempt.

Thanks in advance!

Bill

We've all been there. My advice above is directly targeted to noob modelers and painters. TONS of advice is out there all over the web that'll shove you in one way or the other but as a beginner you have the luxury of a great excuse to just have fun with the paint and not worry about creating a masterpiece.

[Vash Axis]

I use Maxi-Cure or Gorilla Glue super glue. Gorilla Glue is cheaper and holds like crazy but the Maxi-Cure won't run as much as it is thicker but holds well.

You can find Gorilla Glue at Wal-Mart or Target. Maxi-cure is for hobbyists so it might be harder to find.

[Dorian]

For assembling look into a technique called pinning. Works MIRACLES in holding the model together. Essentially you use a small hand drill, drill a hole in the part & a hole in the model. Then insert a small copper-zinc rod & superglue it together.

Not very hard you nust need to be careful with some of the belles. If you look at mine in my signature all the parasol handles are just pin rods drilled into the hands & parasol top. Also on the green one the hand is pinned into the arm.

For paints I recommend Games Workshop paints. Yes they run a little more expensive but they are VERY consistent. I have models from 7 years ago & the "Blood Red" I put on them looks exactly the same as the "Blood Red" I use now.

[Kaane Feinwong]

Loctite Superglue Gel. That's my favorite at the moment. Oh, and get some air dry putty to fill some gaps. Green stuff is really popular but I use Quicksteel automotive putty a lot cause it's at Wal-mart and has amazing strength.

[sephiroa]

i first do the basing before i even start to paint a model,

they stil have to slots to hold them so its no problem if you want to paint your models.

i do this so the basing won't be ugly when i accidently paint on them (and i'm also a noob painter so yeah it happens) and the other way arround, you paint the basing and you accidently paint your mini's. and after all the hard work, its not so fun when it happens. but if you want a little basing over the boots of your model, well then it doens't matter

[MadArcanist]

I use krazy glue paint on glue (with the Red cap, there is a difference) and it hasn't failed me yet.

For Priming what I would do (since I live in an Apt and its crummy outside too) is set up a make-shift exhaust fan using a box fan and the biggest window in your apartment. That way you have circulation out of your apartment and you never have to worry about the paint on stuff. Also Army painter is nice but you'll be spending 10 bucks+ on a can (no need to spend that much on anything that won't be showing) I tend to use the good old fashion Armory Grey primer (or white if you want lighter colors, Avoid black at all costs as it leaves a black dust on your models)

I enjoy going about fifty fifty on the either assembling-painting thing. Some models I'd rather paint before assembling to make sure I can reach all the parts. While some it doesn't matter. I'm also a little OCD and will not want paint getting to other areas while I'm painting, so that is another reason I don't generally fully assemble while painting.

Hope this helps

[WECIII]

Thanks for the great responses. Forums are great when people are as helpful and welcoming as all of you on this forum are.

[thought trauma]

always wash any metal miniatures. i use citadel super glue THIN for metal and plastic.

[maxvon_d]

Lots of different ways to assemble/prep but here's what I do,

Tidying: Usually use a craft knife and clippers to remove obvious flash (bits of excess metal from the moulding process). Then use a small file to eliminate any visible mould lines.

Assembly: Pin + Superglue. I used to hate pinning and avoid at all costs but too many models with bits snapping off in game, or simply through handling, convinced me to get over it. Need a decent pin vice and drill kit - I picked up the GF9 set and it has served me well. I then just use plain old superglue.

Tidying: If there are any cracks or gaps after assembly then I'll use a little bit of grey/green milliput poked in with a cocktail stick. Smooth it off with a sculpting tool and/or brush it smooth with water (it's water soluble so acts as a nice brush-on filler).

Basing: I find it's easiest to prepare a base separately (actually I tend to use precast resin ones) and affix the mini afterward. This requires removal of the tab from the mini and placing a pin or two into the feet, and drilling corresponding holes into the prepared base. To get rid of the tab I use clippers (GW) and then file the bottom of the feet to get a flat finish.

Undercoating: I usually use spray GW white, though recently tried switching over to a dedicated primer. Colour of undercoat is a personal choice. Many people prefer black as it can speed things up and shadows are covered. I tend to use quite thin paints though so find painting over black frustrating. Plus I think the white tends to give a richer final colour. Btw, I have quite a small flat but spray at an open window with a load of cardboard laid about to protect the windowsill.

[Ratty]

One thing I would suggest is finding a mate that is good at pinning and replace the long shafts on the umbrellas with paperclips. It's a good idea to have a nice hard shaft, every belle I've seen that hasn't had this done looks decidedly droopy after a while and the paint will keep chipping off.

[ratch]

there are many Ways, i use Pinning and Glue.

However, i only Pin on high stress or unstable joints. the Executioner Class Steamborg that came in my Ramos set, im going to be pinning the legs on because its a little unstable and i cant get the glue to set. i also pinned the legs on my Warmachine Khador Behemoth.

i use locktite professional, its a medium super glue, you can get it from home depot. Blue bottle, it a thicker glue so it sets quicker but it still cures really good. if you use normal super glue PIN, IMO normal super glue is thin so i will loose its cure faster so after X time you'll pick up a model and the arm comes off. i prefer a medium thickness and pinned stress and unstable joints. it stays together longer and the pins stabalize the models.

[WECIII]

Thanks again everyone! I'm working on the Belles and Sybelle now, and waiting till last for Seamus as he seems to have the most fine detail and I want to practice a bit first on the others.