Wakshaani Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 Just curious, but which all sets of WWG tiles are you using for this? Just the Streets and Sewers, or are some from other parts? (I might have to go shopping soon...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenbull Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 Himmelwein Streets, Himmelwein Canals, Thoumonts tlx ( buildings ). I don't think there's anyone using the sewer set. @ Headcase: it would be greatly appreciated if I could use that mold you have!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted December 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 Just Streets and Canals so far. I plan on using Pathfinder: Gardens for some areas of greenery, and Thoumonts TLX for some buildings. I haven't had a need for Sewers yet, although I might use the Sewer wall textures as a trim for around the outside of my table. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty Posted December 30, 2010 Report Share Posted December 30, 2010 I've been using Street and Canals. And some stuff I made myself, Interior Plaster and tiled floors. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted December 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 A quick pic of some of the Hirst Arts terrain pieces I am making to scatter around the table. Crates and barrels: you gotta have 'em:- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted December 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 I added the Envirotex Lite to the docks, and put some brown ink on the quay posts to darken them up. Still very pleased with how the water effect is working out:- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deuce Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 That looks amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bbb Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 This looks fantastic! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgraz Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 You are so the man! I want to play on that stuff so bad!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brucemanning Posted December 31, 2010 Report Share Posted December 31, 2010 Hey man, this combination of WW and Hirst works a treat. Good stuff and in fact this have given me a few ideas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted January 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 I finished my third and last canal piece (the one with the curved side walls). I also need a round raised section in the middle, so after trying a couple of ideas that didn't work, I came up with this:- I hope it's obvious how that is put together, but if not just ask. I forgot to take photos, but there are 4 magnets buried under the surface on the right. The idea is that players will activate bridges (max 2 at a time), so I made a bridge with a corresponding magnet. I will make another later. Here is what the three canal sections look like joined together, with the bridge attached (in one of four possible positions):- Just Envirotex Lite to apply to the new section and it is done. Here is another look at them, with the dock added for fun:- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Headcase2 Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 I think I need to know where you live now, so I can steal that terrain... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenbull Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 It just keeps getting better and better. I'm awestruck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xxXhayzelXxx Posted January 1, 2011 Report Share Posted January 1, 2011 What an epic job. That is just amazing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Thanks guys One of the problems of making 12" square terrain tiles where ground level sits 2" above the table is getting ground level exactly the same between all the pieces. There is only so much I can do with measuring, as even the thickness of the drying glue affects the dimensions of the finished piece. I need a way to keep these canal sections level with one another. So, I borrowed a leaf from WWG/ Wyrd's book and invented SholtoClips:- They are made of plasticard, 1.5mm thickness I think. They are 1" x 1.5". That is a step texture on each one, to help them blend in. Here they are all set up. The hands are from Sholto's Little Helper #3 :- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yazza Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 Looks amazing. Been playing with the idea of moving bridges as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 I might end up re-doing that magnetised bridge. It is made of stuff and PDFs I just had lying around, and it doesn't look as good as it could. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dgraz Posted January 2, 2011 Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 well it looks fantastic. I have a bunch of that WW stuff and started making it all up but then I realized the pre-measure problem. If all the tiles are a certain length then it is too easy to know how far apart you are. Since I mostly play Perdita that would be nice for me but I think it creates an unfair advantage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted January 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2011 That's true, but only so long as you and your opponent are (literally) squaring up. Once you introduce height and/ or diagonals the 6" grid stops being a factor. I have played several games on this table, using Perdita, Ophelia and other ranged crews and I have honestly never been able to use the layout of the table to judge distance perfectly, just because models never line up exactly on the grid. Stupid models Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Green Git Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 If all the tiles are a certain length then it is too easy to know how far apart you are. Since I mostly play Perdita that would be nice for me but I think it creates an unfair advantage. Truth of the matter is for longtime wargamers most can judge distances pretty darned accurately by eyeball anyway. If anything it will help the less experienced players and possibly bring them up to where the more "seasoned" players are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sholto Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 [ame] [/ame] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Green Git Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Dude... that is some good work. I'd love to play a game on that board! BTW I found some cork tiles in Office Max for modular bulletin boards. They look to be about 6mm thick or so. I'm going to use these and some full page label paper to try my own! Now I just need the time... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sezar Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Full of amazingly epic awesomeness... :notworthy :You_Rock_ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Green Git Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Full of amazingly epic awesomeness... :notworthy Who's awesomeness is only exceeded by it's amazing epicness. :notworthy:notworthy:notworthy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 SO Sholto, how do you deal with LOS. In the one game we have played with this type of scenery we ended up falling back on True LOS rather than the abstracted system in the book. Otherwise I think we would have got really wierd results. EG in the following situation. You have a Ht2 model on a Ht2 piece of terrain. making it Ht4 for LOS. The wall at the end is therefore Ht3. The target is Ht1. Under the RAW the models can see each other. But it's blatantly obvious looking at the situation that they haven't got a hope of seeing each other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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