consolas Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Hello my friends. I'm very new to this and still assembling my Som'er Starter box along with a Burt Jebsen - just followed advices from people all over the place and I'm starting to understand the game despite not having done a single match! Hopefully when I finish assembling, I get to try this game out, seems awesome. Regarding the bases, if I did something out of wood but with the exact same size (or VERY close), would that be tournament accepted? I wanted something that looked more unique and add a little weight to the unit itself. Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 As long as it is exactly the same size it shouldn't be an issue, however there are others methods of adding weight to the supplied bases without having to carve your own. You can glue fishing weights or metal washers under the base. You can also build more scenic bases to add some weight. Personally I use milliput to fill the underside of my plastic bases, it adds quite a bit of heft. If you want to go the scenic basing route (which will definitely allow you to create more unique basing for your models), here is one of the best simple tutorials I have found on how to get started (though there are plenty others that go into a lot more detail). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
consolas Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Thank you for your answer! I already bought the green stuff to start modeling some stuff so that is definitely on my plans!:) Edit.: the page with the tutorial is awesome! Thank you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 No worries man, I just wish the site wasn't so dead. It has been awhile since the last update. Green Stuff is good but I would recommend you get your hands on some Milliput, it is a lot stiffer than Green Stuff. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
consolas Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 I can order miliput! The Envirotex used in the tutorial you shown I don't have a clue where to get. Also, I found out there are a few "colors" for the miliput. What should I get? The yellow/grey? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
consolas Posted March 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 By the way, as a side note, to hell with the skeeters little antennas! Those are almost impossible to not break! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted March 8, 2016 Report Share Posted March 8, 2016 Look for envirotex at craft stores. It is typically found near the wood burning products. You might also be able to find it at a DIY home store like Home Depot or Lowes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Math Mathonwy Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 11 hours ago, consolas said: Also, I found out there are a few "colors" for the miliput. What should I get? The yellow/grey? Yellow/Grey is ok but I prefer the white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
consolas Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Thanks for the answers guys! From the tutorial, the dude uses Acrylic Medium as a substitute for the Envirotex. Since the latter requires a great deal of skill in mixing, I will go with the first for the water effect. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Winsor-Newton-Galeria-Retarder-Fluid/dp/B0027ISSMK/ref=pd_sim_229_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41z9omD8ZdL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR86%2C160_&refRID=16Q0VYJK1BA56T74HZ1H Is this good for it? I know this is a dry retarder which will come in handy when I try to do blends and gradients and stuff (we will see, I'm still new to this), but will it work for the water effect? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
consolas Posted March 9, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Quick Question: What is the point of this? Just paint all the unit with this will get it to "shine" more? Edit: JESUS! sorry for the huge image! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tmod Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 9 hours ago, consolas said: Quick Question: What is the point of this? Just paint all the unit with this will get it to "shine" more? Edit: JESUS! sorry for the huge image! Glazing medium is basically matt medium (basically matt clear paint) with some thinner added (usually water, retarder, possibly other useful chemicals). If you use it to thin your paint with Glaze Medium you get translucent paints, or glazes. They are extremely useful for getting smooth transitions between different colours and shades, but you can get the same effect with just water and a lot of patience... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted March 9, 2016 Report Share Posted March 9, 2016 Glazing Medium (outside of affecting the consistency of your paints, a great additive btw) is used to create water effects. Typically you use it over "colored" water features (think blue painted oceans or greenish swamps) to impart a final "wet" look. They do not provide the sense of actual depth so the paint has to convey that on its own. With Envirotex (and a few other similar products) the paint is less important as the product provides the depth. This is typically used for shallow water features similar to what you would find on a models base. If you want to go heavy water effects you are likely going to want a few different products to convey the correct look. Envirotex is great for clear, still water features, Woodland Scenics Water Effects is great for creating moving water features (wave crests and fountains), while their Realistic Water product is like a mid way point between Envirotex and the Glaze Medium (thinner than the former but thicker than the later). Realistic Water is easier to work with than Envirotex (no mixing) though needs to be applied in several layers to achieve significant depth. It is also prone to some minor surface rippling and especially capillary migration. I have also used E-Z water for terrain pieces and it is probably the quickest and neatest water effect out there. It does have one significant downside and that is the method of application. It is a "hot" product, meaning it needs to be melted for use (so may need adult supervision and definitely a dedicated pan for heating, preferably one with a bit of a spout to aid in pouring). While this means it will harden very quickly (like minutes not days with Envirotex) it does carry the risk of peeling paint as it cools. Proper cleaning of the models to remove all mold release agent, along with a good primer (read as actual primer that etches and bonds to the material instead of simply re-branded spray paint), go along way toward mitigating this risk. Another option is to use regular PVA glue damns around the areas prone to peeling (namely the transition from land to water feature). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
consolas Posted March 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 Thank you all for the help. I think I understood almost everything. I just got a paint retarder and a acrylic medium specific for flow increase so the Glazing Medium will come next. As far as I understood, I should get area where I want the water prepared, get some pva (wood glue, right? the white one?) there, paint it and then apply the glazing medium. Is that it? Envirotex is out of the question for now as I think I would mess up the mixing aha By the way, this is not something I find on a regular shop here, at least with the same names!:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Omenbringer Posted March 10, 2016 Report Share Posted March 10, 2016 I would recommend the glaze medium and a matte medium for your painting. I mix all of those together (matte medium, gloss/glaze medium, retarder, and flow improver 1:1:1:2) in a separate bottle and add it to all my paints. It really helps in getting the paint to do what you want without a ton of work (the gloss and matte mediums create a pleasing satin finish that doesn't kill the metals or make everything look shiny). The best part is that it doesn't adversely affect the consistency of the paints like just using water can (a lot of paints, particularly the yellows and reds will "chalk" when you thin with just water). PVA is regular white glue, wood glue is a bit different though similar. There are a few extra things added to wood glue, formaldehyde being a significant one that comes to mind. Using glue for water effects can be done (to provide depth) but will usually make it "frosty" or "cloudy" looking, so is best for swampy water (high turbidity) or foamy water (waves and such). If you add some green or yellow colored ink (for swamps) this can produce a wonderful effect (to do this add the glue, ink, and a little distilled water in a plastic cup and mix them together, then pour where you want it). Over this you can finish it with the glaze medium to increase the "wet" effect. If you are looking for "clear" water then one of the other products will typically work better. What country are you located in? Perhaps we can find either the name it goes by there or another similar product. It can be difficult to locate unfortunately, but is well worth it (and mixing isn't as difficult as is often made out, though waiting for it to cure can be). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
consolas Posted March 14, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2016 Sorry about the lack of answer! I decided to get the glazing medium. I didn't get the matte medium as it would really get this way more expensive than I wanted (and I didn't even started to paint!:)) So for now, the slow dry ink along with the flow acrylic will have to suffice. The Glaze Medium I will use on the bases for the water effect and for some mixtures where the "shinny" look would look cool - I'm sure I will return here with a lot more questions. Thank you VERY much for all your help and instructions! I'm sure I will return!:):) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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