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  1. Newbie with a question here: I'm on the market for a few 30mm bases that will accommodate the smaller bases from Puppet Wars: Unstitched, as I have read that those slot right into 30mm bases (sort of like an insert, I guess). But, and here's the newbie question, do all 30mm lipped bases have roughly the same internal diameter? I know that Wyrd makes their own bases, but those seem to be out of stock everywhere, and are a bit expensive. I've found some 30mm bases (by "Confrontation" or "Kromlech", for instance) that cost $1 to $2 for a pack of 10, so I'm tempted to go that way. Thanks in advance for your help, PA
  2. I was thinking about using clear bases for my crew. My thoughts were that this way my models always woukd always go with the theme of the board. Has anyone done this? If so what are your thoughts? Also I feel like the plastic bases Wyrd sells would make gluing a bit easier but the acrylic would look a lot better; is that a fair assumption?
  3. So the concept that I do not see clearly defined in the rules is whether or not model bases can hang/protrude off of a ledge. So I have played many games, both for and against, all depending on my opponent’s wishes. Here are the rules I've played with and I would love to have the community's thoughts on the matter. Pro-bass hanging: A model can have their base protruding off of the ledge as long as it's not over 50% of the base and can support itself by staying balanced. Anti-base hanging: as soon as a model breaks the defined ledge, the model falls immediately. Somewhere in between: I've also played where models can protrude off a ledge as long as it's not a vantage point, (2" or more) but if it's a ledge greater than 2 inches the model falls as soon as it breaks the defined ledge. Slope vs. ledge: This is further complicated when non/right-angles are involved. It is very easy to define ledges based on 90-degree angles but as soon as slopes are involved, I've gotten into some debates. What this all means to me. Pro-bass hanging makes for easier, somewhat sloppy, casual play. In addition, there are fewer headaches with pragmatic miniature shenanigans. For example; you have a 1 inch box that a 40mm base model wishes to stand on. It's quite annoying when Nimble Mr. Langston can't stand on a freaking box. Anti-base hanging makes for less practical but clear-cut, rules-lawyer tournament play. However, it complicates things in one significant way. You have a walk bonus as soon as you fall by breaking the ledge with your base. If I have a 50mm Teddy with Dreams of Darkness which gives him flying, he only has a wk:5 but could theoretically fly over 2" crate, break the ledge, fall for free, and keep doing it theoretically moving Teddy almost 13 inches "legally" if the conditions were perfect. In addition, heaven forbid you found yourself in a "shipping yard" terrain set-up where all the crates are 49mm square and spaced 49 mm apart. What do you do then, teleport Teddy anywhere you wish?
  4. Hello my friends. I'm very new to this and still assembling my Som'er Starter box along with a Burt Jebsen - just followed advices from people all over the place and I'm starting to understand the game despite not having done a single match! Hopefully when I finish assembling, I get to try this game out, seems awesome. Regarding the bases, if I did something out of wood but with the exact same size (or VERY close), would that be tournament accepted? I wanted something that looked more unique and add a little weight to the unit itself. Thank you
  5. Hi guys, I've been getting quite hyped about the game the past few days and after doing a bunch of reading I've finally decided to order the 2-player starter set. After rewatching an unboxing video however I noticed that there didn't seem to be any bases in the box. Is it possible I have to buy 30mm bases sepperatly? If so, is it the same for the other packs? Bonus question; If I like the gameplay and manage to rope a few friends in to playing as well I intend to buy two starter crews. My first choice goes to Lilith, as I read she's good for beginners and (I hope) synergies well with the neverborn models of the starter set. I'm not so certain about the second one, though I'm leaning towards Mcmourning. He can serve as a Guild master and works well thematically with the doctor and the orderlies. Thoughts?
  6. From the album: 50mm avatar base ideas

    50mm Base to represent Sonia's avatar upgrade
  7. I am a huge proponent for magnetizing bases and metal tool boxes (magnets are way cooler than foam any day). So are the majority of my gaming group. Those that weren't are converting, and the new people are being indoctrinated (I would be wringing my hands here and cackling but I am in public and need my hands to type). Since I seem to be the only one of us who bothered to measure and order appropriate sized magnets, it fell to me to be the supplier. In order to ensure everyone gets the right ammount of each size, I was going to put this dissertation on our facebook page. Then I figured that the rest of the community would probably benefit from this as well, so I should share. So without further ado, how I magnetize my bases based on actual measurments (ie: me sitting in my basement with a lap full of bases and a caliper while listening to old irish drinking songs). The first step is figuring out what bases you have. There are two versions of the 40 and 50 mm bases and three versions of the 30mm (in my collection at least). As far as I can tell, the bases switched between V1 and V2 somewhere around books 3 and 4. V3 30mm came out with the new M2E plastic kits. The simplest way to determint what you have is to look for the Wyrd logo stamped in the plastic. Early bases did not have this. The below diagram shows what each looks like. Now for the actual measurements... (disclaimer: my caliper measures in inches, I will make some metric conversions later) 30mm depths: V1= 0.09", V2 and V3 are 1/16" 40mm depths: V1= 1/16", V2 = 0.1" 50mm depths: V1= 1/8", V2=0.1" The internal width of the center strip on all the V1 bases and the V2 30mm is 0.1" wide. On the V2 40mm and 50mm it is 1/8". The small circles on the 50mm bases have an internal diameter of 0.1" for V1 and 1/8" for V2 The large circle on the V3 30mm is 0.36" internal diameter, and 0.44" outer. The tiny circles on the V2 bases are too small to be useful, so I didn't measure them. Next lets talk about the magnets. If you just want a list of what I use, skip to the bottom. I'm going to explain how I got where I am now to help you avoid the mistakes I made, and maybe you will come up with solutions I missed. When I stared I only had the V1 30mm and 50mm bases and I hadn't yet started pinning models to their bases so the center slot was filled with that metal bar attached to the feet of the model. My initial concern was getting a magnet that exactly fit the depth of the base. I did not want to have to screw around with spacers and filler. Second, I did not want a magnet that was stronger than the glue bond between the magnet and base. I intended to use Zap-a-gap (my glue of choice). I knew I wanted square or rectangle ones so that I could glue them to the side of the center bar to maximize the amount of magnet suface glued to the base. I also idealy wanted to only get one size and have it work for everything. I had 0.09" and 1/8" to work with. I split the difference and decided to look for 0.1" cube or bar magnets. These aparently are impossible to find. A few head scratches later, I converted to metric and got 2.5mm. VIOLA! found them on the first try. So I purchased some 2.5mm x 2.5mm x 10mm N42 magnets and went to town. They worked great. I put one in the center of each 30mm bases, and two on opposite corners of the 50mm bases. I could pick up the models without the magnets coming off and I could turn the models upside down and they stayed put (I was using Bad JuJu as a test subject). Things changed when I got my first V1 40mm base. The 2.5mm magnet was too tall and the model was wobbly (but stayed attached so not too concerned). Shortly after that, V2 bases started showing up. The 50mm was functionaly no different, but the 30mm bases had the same problem as the V1 40mm. I had also started to have some problems with magnets breaking free from the bases. I blame having to leave my models in my car during an upstate NY winter. The freezing temperatures was probably making the glue more brittle. So I started looking for a solution. I ended up settling on a 3/16" x 3/16" x 1/16" bar magnet. I applied them the same way as the others to the new 30mm bases and the old 40mm bases and it worked like a charm. The next winter, I had even more magnets break free from the old 30mm bases. I was due to restock my supply anyway so I researched other options. I know the 10mm length was excessive for all but the heaviest 30mm models so I ended up going with 2.5mm cubes. I would put two on each 30mm base like I did with the 50mm bases. So even if one popped off, I would still have the other to keep things from flying all over. This was also the time that I started really pinning the models to the bases so it freed up the center slot. The magnets fit inside perfectly, double score! That brings us to the present. I still have occasional magnet break free, but not like I used to. Since most are in pairs, I don't find out until I try to pick up the model. I just got my first set of V3 30mm bases. I like the hold acheived in the V2 30mm bases so I have glued the flat 3/16" square magnets to the center, but have yet to test them in action. I don't anticipate any problems. My only cocern going forward is how to handle the V2 50mm bases. The 2.5mm magnets will still fit, but I will be unable to adequately mount them in the center slot due to it's increased width. I am toying with the idea of getting some 1/8" disc magnets to fill the small holes. Four of those should give me the same hold as two of the 10mm bars. So in summary, I currently use 2.5mm cubes, 2.5mm x 2.5mm x 10mm bars, and 3/16" x 3/16" x 1/16" bars. I plan to try out some 1/8" diameter x 1/10" diameter discs. V1 30mm = one 2.5mm x 2.5mm x 10mm bar or two 2.5mm cubes V1 40mm = one or two 3/16" x 3/16" x 1'16" bar V1 50mm = two or three 2.5mm x 2.5mm x 10mm bar V2 and V3 30mm = one 3/16" x 3/16" x 1'16" bar V2 40mm = one or two 3/16" x 3/16" x 1'16" bar V2 50mm = two or three 2.5mm x 2.5mm x 10mm bar or up to four 1/8" diameter x 1/10" diameter discs (these have yet to be tested). Here is a quick diagram on placement I purchase the 2.5mm cubes and 10mm bars from http://www.indigo.com/magnets/rare_earth/ I purchase the 3/16" bars and 1/8" diameter discs from http://www.kjmagnetics.com/
  8. A quick nosey of the chronicles showed a stat card for the Guilty included in the scenario is 40mm. Couple that with the Artwork, do you think we could be seeing 40mm Guilty as standard? Gamewise do you think this will have an impact? I'm wondering if they will end up blocking LoS for Jack and Ligiea and all the auras you want emanating from them. minor annoyance: all my proxies are on 30mm bases!
  9. Hi all. I was cleaning the hobby area yeasterday and rolled all the rogue bits of Sculpey and Fimo clays I found into one bit ball, flattened, and made some swirly bases. The pic below is in its full-sized glory at goawayskips.tumblr.com. Best side is showing, and some have neat patterns on both faces. The problem is that I have literally no one I can think of to use them for. So the first people/persons who want these unique bases (13x 30 mm, 11x 40mm) get them. Willing to drop a quick pass of glossy finish or dullcote on them if need be. They're light and as long as it's not going crazy far internationally, it's on me for shipping. Comment or PM what you'd like/how many. PS: the wee little one off to the far right was just some leftover. Also, I realized later that I had the ability to do some minor (MINOR) stamping into new, unbaked bases: 0-9, A-Z, some smaller gears, Chinese characters, etc. A $2 block of clay will get quite a few nice bases out of it, so always willing to attempt some commission work. I'll put some pics up when I do a batch.
  10. Can anyone tell me what the base sizes are that are in The Thunder Box Set? Im just wondering because I would like to order some of the Asian base inserts at the same time that I order the box set so I can put it all together at once. Thanks in advance!
  11. I have started basing my Mei Feng crew and I wanted a get a second opinion on the look of the bases. Here is my first attempt. I'll post more pics as I base more.
  12. Howdy all! What would be a decent color scheme for Hamelin, aHamelin and his Rat-catchers and Obedient Wretch? Furthermore, how should Stolen be done? (I was thinking they'd not match, unlike Ham, aHam and the Wretch and Catchers, but what colors are good for 3 Stolen?) I also need a color guide for Nix - what breed of dog most closely matches the dead dog? Furthermore, I'm looking to paint 12 rats - 4 in each color but what colors work for rats? Should I do a black/dark gray/light gray/brown 3/3/3/3 split? I like the idea of dark brown, tan, and white for rats too but it's hard to evenly split 12 rats among 7 colors. Perhaps I could make it white/black/dark gray/light gray/dark brown/light brown/tan 1/1/2/2/2/2/2 split? Which seems more sound for rats? (AND THEN THERE ARE CALICOS. UGH THE OPTIONS XD) EDIT: I've decided I'm making the Wretch's rat (in hand) white, and going with a 2/2/2/2/2/2 split on the rats so that should be fine. Finally, I want to make bases for my models, but I am on a severe budget (meaning ~$8) for materials. What should I do about that? Thanks all in advance! I love the work you guys put up on here. ~Kalkris
  13. I made a set of 6 bases over the last couple days. I wanted to see what everyone thought, and get some feedback on what models to base on them... I kinda decided to make them just because I liked the idea, but i'm uncertain of which models would work well on these that I already own. The models I'm considering for these bases: Hoffman Crew, Ramos Crew, Perdita's Gang, or Marcus (but I really don't think I want to play him). I'm also considering just selling them as I don't have any models that would work perfectly on these bases.
  14. Yep, the title pretty much says it all... anyway, in more detail, my girlfriend wants Colette's bases to resemble an old timey western bar, and she had a great idea of finding a piano for Colette herself to be either standing on, or in front of... ideally she was looking for an upright baby grand esque piece so it wouldn't take up all of the base. Do any of you know where i might find something like this? I'm not even sure where to begin looking. i usually just make this stuff myself, but if i could find a nice looking peice, i would rather go that route. Thankies in advance! Cheers!
  15. I am looking at a variety of bases for my Dead Justice crew. My initial idea would be some urban rubble bases to fit in with the idea of the crew uncovering itself from the rubble of the building just dropped on its head. The other idea would the wyrd graveyard base inserts to for the dug up from the graveyard idea. Thoughts? Additional ideas?
  16. I cannot remember this correctly - I have one of the Pandora Avatar sculpts, and it has a 40mm base. The other day I think I saw someone state all avatars will be on a 50mm base? Is this correct? I am prepping my mini up, and do not want to base it incorrectly. Thanks!
  17. Armorcast has released more to their line of gallery bases: Gallery Bases (2007) Ruined Stucco Building Gallery Base (2008) Worn Rock Outcrop Gallery Base (2009) Industrial Pipeline Gallery Base (2010) Tree Fort Gallery Base Standard Bases (1900) 25mm Round Lava Base (1902) 25mm round “Speed Loader” Tech Base More Info: http://armorcast.com/store/
  18. For those out and about looking for those fancy galery type display, Armorcast has created their series of gallery bases: Also armorcast has obtained the rights for several former chick challenge winning models. More info: http://www.armorcast.com/news/
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