Piccio

ahah I'm really sorry, I don't have the model and I forgot the previous picture was the back! The front is fine, the doll is an attractive point located symmetrically to the red gem and this is good. Maybe If you want to force the primary focus on the monster you can work on eyes with a cold colour, maybe purple if you want to joke about secondary colours (orange-green-purple). for example: I like your model, but If you're still not satistyed and you think the green mass is still flat you can also try to work more on light and shadow adding some intense light (almost yellow-white): and very dark green on the most shadowed zones

Hi man, you have a good hand, nice transitions and clean on details, I'll try to explain your fealing about "something wrong" on your colours palette. 1st silurid one: Red crest is very attracting for my eyes, So I think you're a bit frustrate because you generally want the face is the most attracting detail. This is because hot colours are more attractive that cold (red is hottest than green), saturated color are more attractive that desaturated (red and green they're almost at the same level). You can compare that with the tongue, that is a less interesting detail than the crest simply because more desaturated. (more black or white you add on your basic mescula less is the colour saturation) Red is also a complementary of green, this mean you have the maximum contrast, this is good because your mini is a 2 colour scheme. At this point what you can do for shift focus from the crest to the face? I simply suggest to work on contrast on the face volumes, specifically adding more light and / or adding some textures / detailes. Maybe you can also add some red "scales/skin irregularity" dots on the head, so your eyes will be attracted at the same level than the crest. You can also add interesting detail on the skin in general (cuts , wrins, textures) with yellow, red, brown, so the eyes will move to the crest so watch something else. I wanna compare with my very last work (please keep focus on colours): I have the maximum contrast from skin and monkey wrench and form skin and pants (the main parts of the model). Anyway to keep attention on the body (and mainly the head) I tryed to keep the skin as the most saturated part (there's hot blood under the skin so this is usually sature atleast you're in the middle of a glacier) and I spent more time working on volumes to exasperate them. I chose neutral/desaturated/cold colours for Gloves, hat and vest details because i want no focus on them. Red or saturated yellow gloves will shift the focus on them (peripheral zones) moving away from the face, and this is generally wrong alteast you intentionally want that. While painting I realized it was hard for me to keep focus on the face because the model has non neck and a strange chin so the face was not so simple to enlight in a standard way, I tryed to make it more interesting adding detail (pimples are totally freehand), trying to work on contrast in skintone, trying to give focus on glasses (glasses helped me a lot) and keep a very neutral tone on the hat (I want focus on the face not on the hat!). I also make a dark zone on the monkey wrench at the sides of the face. 2nd silurid one: I like more, it's interesting because green dots (textures), yellow and green are near on the colour scheme, the most enlighned part is still the face, so the focus is in the right place. The only part I don't like much is the rock because too much innatural (no texture, any shadow). Nice work. 3rd: Joju. U worked a lot. It's really well painted. On the green volumes you spent time with light and shadow. The hands are really well done. But the focus is still only on the wrong part of the model (the red crystal). The model is simply not interesting. My eyes go on crystal first, on red foliage then, on the crockdile head at the end. This is wrong. Brown bone is too much neutral, too much anonimous. Do something on the head. Blood, add textures, exasperate the contrast. What i suggest In this case is a very very cold light coming out from the eyes hole. Azure or pink/purple. All your model is in warm colours palette, a cold single detail will take focus for sure!

last post edit for a better picture.

Sparks done! Will Willie be next?

my first impression on Strategies (GG 2018 read but not tested yet): -) ply for information: obey/companion is good for taking conditions on your model before your opponent can. Hard to wound / impossibile to wound/defensive is good to keep the condition up. Focus/fast can help taking down the condition from a model you're engaged and then put on yourself. I'm not sure overactivating is a big advantage on that strategy. I think yan-lo (models missplacing), mei feng (railwalk), shen long (fast), mc cabe (nimble + reactivate) can works. I'll give a change to Brewmaster + Finger because obey + swill + drinking contest and no interact area seems designed for this strategy. I think Asami is not a good option (tempo-summons are not so useful for this strategy). I'm not a fan of Lynch here. Yeah I think I'll start paint my brewmaster soon. -) Public execution: every solid beater is fine, kill and survive until the end of turn. I think shen long will be my first option here. -) Symbols of authority: also here I think interacts negation is necessary (sun quiang) but also interact in engagement is good (mc cabe new upgrade will be nice). -) Ours: I think is important to take out enemy and try to not die (banal). Maybe also the SS cost / resilience of every model should be evaluated. Medium cost? A couple of higher cost and many cheap? How many SS in upgrades? This time Mei/Asami summons will not help scoring (I think I never lost any interference point with Meifeng, emissary & toshiro)I'll like shenlong push + heal, but maybe I'll try Misaki (master value is 10 so quite is sacrificable, and she's really good to go where necessary and kill something in the while), or Lynch.

@Nikodemus You are right! Thank you man, I apologize. True, Tannen comboes well with cheating bastard and his durability is really increased by Terracotta's protection. @whodares thank you for the useful and exhaustive guide about Lynch. I'm offering to contribute start writing something similar about Shenlong or Mei while in winter holiday. I realized this game now is grown a lot in complexity compared from the time the first book was out. Updated guides (pullmyfinger is usefull for sure but not always mantained update) can be really be useful to help new players.

@whodaresI'm not a regular Jakob player so my experience is maybe limited, anyway I very often take emissary, graves, 1 beckoner, 1 samurai, 1 tt-brother with him. I also gave some chances to Lone Swordman and Illuminated but they everytimes underperformed in my hands. I think I will try sun quiang soon. Usually I use Emissary to move and push 2 models in the first turn (I prefer his Lynch upgrade just for the extra push, the general one is also pretty good expecially if you have a katanaka or a beckoner near him), then starting from second it depends from my hand and positioning, I usually move and CA under focus (or worst charge something) only if I'm sure I can eventually cheat for 6 the focused attack or if I've some high mask cards. Attacking for 2 or maybe 3 damage is not so great, if I need 1ap to move I prefer to push and fast Graves or Hungering istead CA. In any case just moving + push&fast hungering + push lynch is still a good option. You have spent (1)ap + (0)ap to give 2ap to the hungering and 1 to Lynch. Care because DEATH CONTRACT specify that it doesn't count as upgrade for frendly ability model (i.e. emissary tactical one)

Samurai is nice if you also play the S.Emissary, when fast he can shoot (atleast) 3 times with Considering for example I'm shooting at something out of cover, if I'm winning 2 attack duels on 3, no extra attacks, both damage flip with a single : it means 3x4 + 2x2 = 16 cards digged (about 1/3 of your deck, you should find atleast one ace), not bad for a single activation. With <cheating bastard> on Lynch the chance to make any extra attack will increase a bit, Emissary / graves helps on their Wk 4 .

Count me as Henchman!

Also Equality works fine on Burt

You can also play Lynch without any synergy with deck dig and aces cycling (sub-obtimizing his mulligan and card advantage) or Mei Feng without any constructs (sub-obtimizing his railwalk) and still win. In any case the free focus / defensive aura is a really huge buff and it doesn't take any of your master AP. I really want to use everytime I can because the chance to cheat damage makes any duel a threat. Def is also great: having 3-4 model in defensive at the beginning of turn 2 make losing the initiative flip less important. I usually take models with good (0)ap that have to stay far from Shenlong because flanking (pathfinder, wandering river monks, tt brothers...). Tengu are nice removing enemy markers, anyway Shenlong can also replace marker away using mighty gust. I think I go for tt brother or wandering 90% of time because they can place up to 2 markers in their activation. Anyway: -models with high severe stat or blasts on damage profile are really good with him (due free focus) ....for example a fast emissary can go focus+2 at the beginning of activation, attacks, then go focus+1 due shenlong, attacks, attacks a 3th time (maybe others free attacks on any trigger). 6+6+2(or more)+X damage avoiding incorporeal, engagement and cover with a good control hand and no black joker on the many cards you will flips. -model with no important (0)ap benefit from him because they gain 1 ap for free. -models with htk or lot of armor are preferable (you normally have time to switch low river style and heal). -WK4 models benefit a lot from mighty gust.

Man you're taking many models that already have a good (0)ap (yorogumo's 3rd attack, lone's reactivate, yamaziko's brace....) You totally waste Shen's free focus /free defensive as (0)ap near him. Shen can be a good hitter if necessary, but usually he buffs and supports your crew with wandering and low river style. He can push+fast+free focus atleast a couple of models each turn. This works pretty well with something like kang, izamu, lazarus (slow, tanky model with huge damage attacks). I normally take the emissary over Yu, so I usually save 4SS for hiring a low river monk most of times and I prefer "upgrades users" while building crew. I like Jebsen for a lot or reasons with Shen, not only because can be a 4ap beater with Ml6 and 3damage minimun.. Snipers and Wandering are ok for taking care about flank, in any case I do not hire both very often, my prefecence is strictly linked to scheme pool.

Thank you!. Winsor & Newton

Misaki! My first Malifaux mini and my first seriuos freehand attempt at the same time. When I tryed to make the dragon on the vest I realized that I needed to change my brush (now I use W&N all time).

Kang, It was a "fast" paint, I had to complete it just in time for the last year UK nationals event (full paint tournament)!

And this is my next wip, more foundry to Mei Feng! My second try on green skintone after Jebsen. Still wondering why the sculpture has no neck! O.o.

Hi there, finally I've found a way to make some decent pictures of my works. This is my last finished one. Our favourite old man. I spent a lot of time with putty and sandpaper to clear the model surface due many wrinkles on the plastic. Yan was really fun to paint and an opportunity to learn something new, for example I tryed to simulate inexistent folds just with painting (the vertical ones visible in the 3rd picture).

or emissary.. nice model

This is exactly what I thought about it. That FAQ clarification is not to explain the meaning of contact base but the spirit is just to avoid model with medium-large base to place markers hiding under their base, encoraging polite games. So you can't overlapping marker while placing (hiding), but you can remove enemy markers while overlapping. OK! That's have sense. I think the same. Anyway I can't find where this sentence is wrote Is it wrote somewhere? I also suppose I can't move terrain, so I suppose I can hide markers inside/under becouse I can't place without moving. OK! I suppose I can't try to put a mark "on the void" near a roof board because the marker "can't stay on place". OK! I also want suppose I can' try to put mark "in equilibrium" on instable places. (I hope so) Thank you! But still have a couple of questions... Yes I read that definition as a sort of virtual marker for position (and this is one of the reasons for our group "place in strange location" doubts). Anyway the vertical position does matter while placing (due the base contact rule) and also for removing with standard interact. Right? So there's a bit of difference if the mark should be considered at definite or indefinite height position. For example: My opponents drop a marker inside a building at the first floor. At the second floor I think i can go at distance 0'' (distance measurements are only in 2D) but I think I can't remove it because I'm not in contact base due in not in the same height position (different floor) of the marker. Is this sentence right? I'm not sure. Anyway If I create a terrain over a marker the height position of the mark changes putting it "on top" of the terrain? Or is it considered at the older h and "putting on top" is just to make it more visible to both players? (Yes I know this is a very borderline case).

I'm not an expert Lynch player but this week I finally tried him with the new Cheating Bastard. I had a very strange game, with horribles control hand for 3 turns despite mulligans+Woke Up With a Hand+Emissary card cycling trigger from (0)push. In any case I liked the upgrade. Really. I think is really good for his 1SS cost if you are not much scared about Huggy death before turn 3. 1. Cheaper than others limited. 2. Huggy charge under fast + recalled can be really annoing when your opponent have always to cheat first. He probably wastes a lot of high cards early in the turn if he want to win duels. 3. Huggy can sometimes survive attacks for the same reason. 4. Huggy can be also played as support for your crew (he still a good option for a 0SS activation). 5. Same for Lynch. Great buff for offensive duel and a bit more survability. 6. The buff is spread to every model near him and huggy, this is very good option for models who really want to enable nasty triggers (lone swordsman, oiran's lure, Ama No Zako...) because you can cheat when you're are sure the duel is alreay won. 7. Show mask to do something. A free "under the influence" is great, free markers in base contact to huggy and lynch is really good too. This saves Lynch APs and make Huggy a good (fast, incorporeal) scheme runner, healing 2WD is hardest to trigger but still really good. You can still draw 2 with Woke Up and then chose show mask due the same timing. I think I'll make other games with Lynch with this upgrade soon. Very versatile.

Inside my play community we're discussing a lot about markers placement rules. I check the rules / faq and forum answers but still some doubts. - A model with (1) interact can place marker generally in contact base, from FAQ marker can't be overlapped. -A model with (1) interact can remove any enemy marker in contact base, Does the "marker and model base can't be overlapped faq" apply also for removing? - A model is in base contact with a terrain with H not zero (for example an impassable house wall), for some reasons player have to place a marker "in the wall". Can models place markers UNDER/INSIDE an impassable terrain? Marks is still in base contact, and LOS is not necessary. I found anything about this case to say "you can't" but I'm not sure this is polite at all. In this case will marker stay under the terrain? Rules clarify that markers will moved vertically over terrains only if the terrain trait will be placed/moved over marker later (for example for effect of a terrain marker). If a terrain trait blast marker is placed (for example blocking H5) over a scheme marker, the scheme marker is placed on the top of the new terrain, so is the scheme marker located at H5 now? -A model is over a house roof (for example H2), with the base in contact to the edge. Player chose to place a marker, further the house roof border, Is placement still legal? In this case will the markers be still at H2 or will it "fall down" same as models do? Down here the rules parts I found. I found nothing about markers and terrain behaviour. Mannequins tactical ability "marker within 6" specify you have to place markers in LOS and not inside terrain, I suppose these conditions do not apply normally. Thank you in advance for any clarifications. ------------------------------------------------------------ Markers[rules pg7]: Malifaux uses various Markers to track different game effects. Some of the rules require standard sizes for Markers and other types of templates, including 30mm and 50mm circles. Wyrd Miniatures sells 30mm, 40mm, and 50mm model bases which work perfectly for Markers and templates. also [rules pg56]: Markers are placed on the table during an Encounter to represent objectives or other game events based on the Marker’s description, such as a pile of scrap metal or a bloody and maligned corpse. By default, Markers simply denote a position on the table, and are ignored most of the time. A Marker’s default size is a 30mm base, unless otherwise noted in the Marker’s description. All Markers have the following common rules: •Markers do not count as terrain and have no Ht unless otherwise noted. •If terrain would be created or moved on top of a Marker, the Marker is placed on top of the terrain without changing the Marker’s position on the table’s horizontal surface (the Marker simply moves up). •Models can move over and stop on Markers. A Marker is ignored for movement purposes (but terrain below the Marker is not). •Markers cannot be moved from their position on the table or destroyed unless an effect states otherwise. Markers are commonly dropped by models that die, or as part of a Scheme. Sometimes a model will drop multiple Markers. It is perfectly acceptable for two Markers to be on top of each other; both have their effects, it doesn’t matter which one is placed on top. Markers Placing[rules pg39]: Placing Scheme Markers A model may take a (1) Interact Action to place a Scheme Marker in base contact with itself and not within 4” of another friendly Scheme Marker. Scheme Markers help achieve certain Schemes (see pg. 84). This Scheme Marker is always considered friendly to the crew of the model that placed it, regardless of who controlled the Interact Action. A model may take this Action even if its Crew has not selected any Schemes which require Scheme Markers. A model may take a (1) Interact Action to remove all enemy Scheme Markers in base contact with it. For more information about Scheme Markers, see page 57. and Interact [rules pg39]: (#) Interact: This Action is performed as part of another rule (usually a Strategy or Scheme). The effects of the Action are listed in the individual rule descriptions. A model may not declare this Action if it is engaged, unless the Interact Action targets an enemy model. and scheme markers (I don't copy&paste text about corpse and scrap because they're are simply placed in base contact before removing model): Scheme Markers Models may place a Scheme Marker in base contact with themselves and not within 4” of another friendly Scheme Marker by taking the (1) Interact Action (see pg. 39). These Markers are used as part of Schemes (see pg. 84); they play a role in a Crew attempting to earn Victory Points during an Encounter. However, models may take this Action even if their Crew has not taken any Schemes which require Scheme Markers. Scheme Markers are Crew specific, and players will need to track which Crew placed each Scheme Marker. Some players might take this opportunity to craft unique Scheme Markers for their crew, or simply paint their Markers a unique color or pattern. Models may take a (1) Interact Action to remove every enemy Scheme Marker that is in base contact with the model. from FAQ: If a model is placing a Marker in base contact with itself and the Marker is Ht 0, can the Marker be placed underneath the model’s base? No. The Marker must be placed touching the model’s base, but not overlapping it. If a model on a 30mm base is positioned perfectly on top of a 30mm Scheme Marker (or similar) such that the Marker is completely covered, can other models draw LoS to the Marker? Yes. A model on a 40mm base or larger would be able to block LoS to the Marker, but a 30mm base does not block LoS (nor can it stop another model from being in base contact with the Marker). ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

really nice works Lust is my favourite one.

uhm... ok.. so if Shenlong takes Defensive+1 from the LR upgrade he keep the condition value up untill the end of turn or untill he takes Defensive+x from a source that is defining the time the condition ends. I'm not sure this is fair but rules&faq telling that. Low river upgrade is really strong at this point (virtually if you are atleast in defence+1 and you have the LR upgrade on shenlong, if you succed a duel generated from an enemy before activating the defence raise (+1) and stay, then you can spent all 3 action to heal for 2+2 (eventually take +1 during activation). 12 point of heal it's really huge. Thank you @Nikodemus for the explanation.

Defence condition on a model goes away at the beginning of that model activation. Does't care about source.

@generalbear Shenlong can keep burn, focus and poison on after unkeep, but defensive still goes out at the beginning of his activation, he has no special rules about def. condition.