ThatDarnSatan

Very welcome! Magnets are quite helpful.

1) These are good magnets to use for big, man-size plastics. I use these for lighter plastics. Metals and plastics using 40mm+ base inserts will want either the larger magnet or multiples of the small one. 2) Green Stuff 3) Super glue 4) Waxed paper Mix up a ball of Green Stuff, about as big around as can snugly fit between the base and the surface it's sitting on, or a little bigger. Put a drop of super glue onto the bottom of the base, and drop the ball of putty onto the glue. Put another drop of glue onto the putty. Add the magnet; you don't need to press it way in, just a little bit so it catches in the glue and putty. Finally, turn the base over and rub it on the table, on a square of the waxed paper. Leave it on waxed paper to dry, to keep the glue from hazing your table. I don't know if it matters much, but when I remember to do it, I score the inside of the base and the top of the magnet with a hobby knife, which presumably helps the glue adhere to the slick surfaces. In practice, the bases rarely come apart anyway. It's a good idea to make sure your bases' polarity all goes the same way. If you ever want to stick a rare earth magnet to another rare earth magnet (e.g. I like to glue magnets to the tops of corks, so I can then stick a miniature to the top while painting it, and not have to use poster putty), you'll be happy you made them consistent.

Hey all, I've got a couple unopened boxes of the new Plaguebearers I don't want, and can't exchange them under GW's new store policy because I no longer have the receipts. I came close to throwing them out when we moved recently, but the MSRP convinced me to hold onto them. Is there a good excuse to hoard miniatures I don't intend to paint? As it happens, I somehow managed not to order a Seamus box set during GenCon. Once I dried my tears, it occurred to me that this blunder might help me cast the daemons out of my hall closet. If anyone is into Warhammer Daemons of Chaos and would like some Nurgly goodness, and can either hook me up with a GenCon Seamus 2E box now or later in the month (if I don't buy it myself first), I'd be happy to make a trade. The Plaguebearers are a $58 value against Seamus at ~$40-$45 (educated guess), so you'd come out a little ahead on the deal. Let me know. Barter! Horray! --John.

I do this too, two brushed layers of Liquitex gloss finish followed by Dullcote. My personal hobby-hate is having to touch up bumps and scrapes, and two two layers of gloss provides reasonable protection for even metal miniatures. Really worthwhile! I've been using Dullcote for the final matte coat, but am fed up. I haven't been turned off by the odd should-have-known-better catastrophe, but that it is so aggressively DULL. Blacks turn dark grey, all other colors get a tinge of desaturation that you hate to see after having worked so hard on getting it just right. It's consistently wrong across the model, so at least it all still works together, but it's not optimal. Especially if you're relying on strong reds in your color schemes or black on your bases, I'd stay away from Dullcote. I can't suggest an alternative unfortunately, I'm left at a brick wall by the decision not to use it again, though I imagine the suggestions in this thread will do the trick.

Hah! I should've guessed, Zagreb and all. You've even got me looking around for basic electronics instruction. The possibilities! Keep up the good work, it's some of my favorite hobby-related writing I've read in a long time.

I'm onto issue 4 and really enjoying this magazine. The Malifaux table they've got a team of apparent psychopaths building is amazing, truly inspiring stuff. Can't wait to see it finished.

According to FedEx, my order has been sitting in Georgia since 8/23, but the delivery estimate is still for Friday 8/30. Perhaps that means they've just been skimping on the en route-updates and it's really on its merry way. Friday is my birthday, and Malifaux 2E my present-to-self, so I'm hoping FedEx comes through like my eight year-old self hoped for Megatron.

Paint on your basecoat and give it some time to get used to being dry. Acrylic paint dries quickly but it seems to get properly durable some time after it's apparently dry. Just give it an hour or so. Paint with thin paint, and load your brush with enough that it leaves a mark but does not blob and run. Thinner paint is easier to wipe off the model if you make a mistake. In that case, an immediate, light scrub with a damp brush (I use a stubby old GW small drybrush) should do the trick. Start with the point of your brush against the pointy end of the stripe, and drag your brush away from it. Don't be afraid to use lots of short strokes to get to the other end of the stripe, just be patient and keep your paint wet and your brush clean. Paint the outline of the stripe first. Fill in the stripe when the outline is to your satisfaction. If your paint is thin enough, you'll probably want an additional coat or two before you have the desired black.

We're seeing the "punk" part of steampunk here. Punk fashion was sexy and loud and broken and stabby, for the sake of *not* being demure, meek, together and nice. It's not slutty, it's just something your parents won't approve of on general principle. The roller derby comparison is a wonderful analogue of this: it doesn't look like other sports because it doesn't want to. I don't like sex for the sake of sex in fantasy artwork. I despair of concept artists who punt their responsibilities and draw a variant of the chainmail bikini every time. While I think Justice would kill the undead better if she weren't wearing heels, the steampunkery in Malifaux doesn't quality as gratuitous, in my opinion. It's just correct.

They're great! I plan to get everything I've seen so far. Hopefully will manage to paint it, too. I like Seamus's v1 art, but don't mind it changing -- it would be boring (and pointless) to get the same thing every time. It might require some special mental discipline to stop imagining the smiling cartoon leprechaun though. Sybelle is a beast. Her skintone will be fun. Painters, start your glazes.

After being SO GOOD about not buying miniatures for months, I picked up the University of Transmortis. I'm out of town at the moment but can't wait to get them home and start building zombies.

Argh, we're so evenly distributed! I'm in Bellevue, soon to be Seattle, 2-3 hours from you guys. Let's all be proactive about building the Malifaux scene so in two years when there is a massive Washington State GT, the organizer can brag about how "we're expecting a huge turnout, with groups coming from the big three, Seattle, Kennewick and Yakima." It'll be great!

I *LOVE* this miniature. I'm going to have a blast painting it, and I don't even follow the Guild. Go, Wyrd! The single pose doesn't bother me at all. Each of the three models will have its own pose as usual, right? Unless you're running four at a time and want to distinguish the duplicates, I wouldn't expect the model's poseability to be a big deal.

An actual reason to revise a model: the punk zombies' swords don't work in soft metal. I own three and have seen three others out of he package; all started out bent and will never be perfectly straight. I'm afraid to paint them, because even after sorta-straightening, they will eventually be badly bent again, and crack the paint. Not great.

I get that with plastic models too -- some primer taken off but mostly not. I'd be interested in wise and sagely instruction, but I believe you just live with a mostly stripped model.

Wow! Great work. I'm shocked at how evil Colette looks, just by matching her color scheme to a bunch of Neverborn. There's a lesson there.