Backno

51 will be my final count once I am done with Christmas. That isn't even 2 units in either my Ork or Skaven armies ...

Don't forget Kaeris + Ramos as well.

Love the various bits on the bases, look fantastic. Your color selection looks great too. Only issue I really see is your skin tones are really flat, might want to use some targeted washes in the shadows to break it up.

I have baggies to transport my Ork Boyz and Skaven Clanrats. In all the transporting, moving around, and general tossing around they have had ZERO issues with using this method. 2 coats of Krylon gloss, 1 coat of Krylon matte and never an issue.

My Doomwheel is all drybrush and washes for the wood. Base coat Beastial Brown + Fortrss Grey 1:1, Drybrush Beastial + Fortress 1:2, Drybrush Fortrss Grey. Once it's all dry use various washes on different planks so they there is some variety to them( I used Black, Brown, Green, and Flesh). Once it's dry wash ALL of the wood with Devlan Mud. http://imgur.com/a/FykRp#0 Edit: Note this gives an aged look and the various washes make planks look like they have been replaced at various times.

I think that the BF bag looks like a horrible waste of money. The fact that you can't even fit the entire set (ie starter box + all expansions) into it is just a bad design. Add in that it's $40 + shipping and it turns laughable. The case Karn and I use is the Aquilla 4 case with KRM4T style foam (50 - 40mm L x 25mm W x 23mm D spaces per sheet). Their US site doesn't show it but the bag has a large velcro pocket that easily holds the rules, 4 Puppet Decks, the tokens, and the board. The foam will hold 100 puppets and is soft enough that even the odd shaped ones like Hooded Rider fit perfectly. They charge $50 for it shipped. Go HERE and choose "Aquilla (PYO Trays)". Enter "KRM4T x2" for tray code and you are good to go. If you have questions email them with what you want and they will sort you out ASAP *** Awesome Story about KR Multicase Owner *** My wife bought me an Aquilla 4 at Gen Con this year for my Malifaux army and we bought 1 for all our Puppet Wars stuff that we had just bought. Owner of the company told us $40 for each bag, we pay and go on about our day. The next day I go to show Karn the bag (now full of puppets) and he wants one. He has to demo PW and doesn't get off until after the dealer room closes. So I offer to go pick it up for him. Go over, ask for another of the bags and the owner tells me it's $50. I give a puzzled look and mention the 2 I bought the previous day and how he only charged us $40, he grabs the price list and shows they are in fact $50. I reach for another $10 out of my wallet when he stops me and says "I told you they where $40 yesterday, they are $40 for you today" hands me the bag and a receipt and sends me on my way. ***End Awesome Story***

Thank you very much. I look forward to getting those once I get my box set for xmas.

What wings are those? I can't seem to find them on their site.

Couple things to help your pictures: 1) If your camera has a Macro mode use it. 2) Get your light from all around the mini. Use multiple lights to reduce shadows. Don't use the flash on your camera. 3) Try to get a nice flat color for the backdrop. A piece of fabric, piece of paper, etc

I only have my personal experiance with it. All I know is my Shoota Boyz went from rolling 30 dice and getting 2 or 3 5's and 6's to actually getting 10-12. And my Clanrats all of a sudden didn't care if the only way there where not running away was with a 2 or 3, they where gonna get that 2 or 3. ps 100 points of Clanrats holding up 750 points of Bretonians Knights + goodies for 5 rounds of combat is hilarious.

If you want to make things pop a bit more I would use one of the GW washes on everything (Devlan Mud is my favorite). It will get in all the recsses and make it so everything doesn't look so flat. If you want to get even more crazy, after the wash go back with the same colors you used and pick out the higher parts of the mini. Doing that give you 3 layers of color (base color with a bunch of wash, base color with some wash, and base color)

Welcome to miniature hobbies, my name is Backno, I hope you enjoy your stay. Since these minis are metal you will need to use standard super glue. Just clip the minis, clean up the mold line with a small file, put a SMALL (I mean hardly any) amount of glue on the joint, and hold them together for a few min so the glue can set. The trick with super glue is less is more. Slather it on and your bond will suck. As for drilling holes it depends on the mini. It's called pinning and it's generally used if you need to attach something that is kind of heavy but only has a small spot to attach, like wings for example. To do it you drill a hole in both parts, take a bit of wire that fits in the hole and put it in, then super glue it together. You might have to do this with the Wyrd base inserts. A simple search for "how to pin miniatures" on youtube will give you some simple videos. You will first need to prime your miniatures using either a spray or brush type primer. I personally use Krylon Flat White or Black spray PRIMER (not paint). Apply a THIN coat or 2 to cover the mini (letting it dry between coats). The key is just enough primer to cover the metal with out hiding details. I try to spray from at least 12-14" away just to make sure I don't put to much on. For paints you will want to use hobby acrylic paints. The reason you use them and not generic ones from walmart is because they are more pigment rich, which lts them cover your minis better + they have more colors available. Yes getting a good selection of colors can get expensive, but if you take care of your paints they will last a long time. And since you are only painting a small number of minis it's not like you are going to run out (like I did with Goblin Green...twice) Brushes can be bought at any craft store (Michaels, Hobby Lobby, etc). Just get a multi pack of them and enjoy. When you are just starting out getting really nice brushes isn't going to help much AND when you are just starting out you are probably going to ruin some brushes. It's better to ruin the 25 cent brush then the 8 dollar brush. After your mini is fully painted you will want to protect all that hard work. For that you will need spray clear coats, get both a Matte finish and a Gloss finish. Use the Gloss first (just like the primer with thin coats) followed by the Matte. The Gloss protects much better then the Matte, the Matte takes away the Shiny look of the Gloss. I use nothing but the cheap Krylon and have never had an issue. My Ork Boyz and and Skaven Clanrats spend their lives in plastic ziplock bags get bounced around and I have never had an issue of paint chipping and flaking off. As for wanting them to look "just like the pictures" you need to slow down. Painting minis is a really rewarding hobby but if you are expecting to just sit down, having never touched a brush to a mini, and are expecting it to look just like the picture you are in for a world of hurt. I am not trying to be a jerk, just telling you the facts. I have had many people (both in person and real life) who have that attitude, get angry their first minis don't look the same, and never paint again. The only way to get better is to paint, post pics, get advice, and paint some more. My biggest thing is pick one of your crews, paint the "lesser" minions first, then paint the leader. DO NOT go back to a mini that you have finished until the entire crew is done. This prevents you getting into a loop of "it's not perfect, strip mini, re-paint, repeat". You will spend all this time and never have anything to show for it, get frustrated, and quit. Also having your first minis that you have painted to look at in comparison to your more recent minis lets you see exactly how much better at painting you have gotten. Having a fully painted crew, even if i just a simple base coat of all the colors and a wash, will set you miles ahead of a lot of gamers with their bare metal/primed minis. *Your minis will also perform better, it's a fact that painted minis preform better then unpainted minis. Ask my Ork Boyz who became snipers or my unbreakable Clanrats who laugh at danger. I am at work or I would post some tutorials, but I am sure others will get on it asap. *not actually a fact

Here is how I got all my brass/bronze for my doomwheel http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?categoryId=400020&pIndex=4&aId=6000022a&multiPageMode=true&start=5

And all of that is STILL cheaper then 2 full units of Clanrats :happypuppet2 For my game stores it seems a bunch of people got into it, then it died. So I am trying to stir those people into playing by doing some games with a friend (first one is tomorrow). Already had 2 people mention to my friend about playing.

I like em, esp the eyes. Give a good look to em.

Paint them in which ever order you feel most comfortable with. Johan will give you more practice with your skintones, the Croyphee will give you more practice on your fabrics. Some other things I thought of 1) Make sure you have enough light. Natural light is best followed by those "natural" lights and light bulbs that give a better spectrum of light. It will help you see the mini better as well as put less strain on your eyes. 2) Prime and paint in multiple thin layers. If something isn't covering let the layer dry and add another. When you try to rush and goop it on is when your mini goes from "looks good from 10 feet away" to "did you paint that with a Q-tip?" 3) A simple trick that has been mentioned already but going to state it again: GW washes are your best friend. Use a base of a color, wash it twice with a similar color wash, high light most of the raised parts with your base coat, and boom 3 layers of color. When I was speed painting my Orks I actually started to make my own black wash because I was going through so much Badab Black. 4) Make sure you are painting in a comfortable position. Curling up and what not will hurt after you do it for a couple of hours. Take breaks to give your eyes a break and to stretch out. 5) Look into making a grip of some sort to hold your mini while you paint it. The oils from your hands can fubar that lovely paint you are working so hard on. I simply took 2 old GW paint pots, plastic glued them bottom to bottom and put a wad of Sticky Tack on on side. It also helps your hand stay in a more relaxed position, reducing fatigue. Edit: Last one: Post pictures of your stuff here and other forums. We can give you ideas on what you are doing right and wrong. And as long as you come in with the right attitude people will generally try to help. Here are some things I have done. Doomwheel took me ~12 hours from primer to clear coat. It was done with nothing but base coats, dry brushing, and washes http://imgur.com/a/FykRp#0 I am far from a being a good painter. I use all the fun techniques that let me paint fast and have my minis look good on the table. Had to learn them for painting 30+ Ork Boyz or Skaven Clanrats in one sitting start to finish.

Yes it's 2 in the box. Since your Eldar army is red you should already know how much of a pain red can be so don't need to go into that. The only colors that jump out to me are P3's Coal Black, GW's Dwarven Flesh and Elven Flesh, I would look into a couple of darker or lighter blues depending on what you like.

I will say get the crew you find the most interesting, no point in wasting time and money on other crews that you don't enjoy. If you can find a group that plays around you see if you can get some games in with some of the crews listed above (Perdita, Lady J, Lilith, etc) so you can learn the rules of the game before you have to throw in the crazy that is Collette's crew. the nice thing about Collette's crew is that all you need to get started is the Showgirls box and 1 pack of Doves. If you have the money getting the Coryphée box means you have everything you need to play up 35+ points for ~$60 if you look around. There are a few other models you can add down the line, but you want to avoid them till you get a firm grasp of how the crew works.

My recommendation is start with the Doves, then to the Mannequins, then the Performers, then Cassandra, then Collette. couple of reasons to do them in that order. 1) You get to test things on the "lesser" models in the crew 2) The first mini people will want to look at will be Collette so you want that to be your best looking mini. The other rule is you DO NOT repaint anything until everyone is done. If you strip and repaint every mini because it's not "perfect" you will never actually finish anything. I have seen it over and over new guy paints his first mini or 2, is mad thy don't look like the ones on the box, strips and repaints, repeats until getting fed up with painting because they have put all this time in and have nothing to show for it. As a new painter your minis will not be as good the ones on the box, but if you show up with a fully painted army it will get peoples attention. I got more compliments on the 90 fully painted Ork Boyz I had in my 40k crew then the people who had tons of complex conversions but no paint. All they had was a base coat, highlight (fast and crappy), and a wash or 2, but people where blown away because there was a bunch of green dudes on the table. After you have the entire crew painted take a look at the differance between Collette and the first Mannequin. Being able to physically see how your painting has improved can really help keep you motivated. At that point go ahead and think about stripping a mini and repainting it with your new found skills. Why invest in one. All you need is small tupperware, a sponge, and some parchment paper. There are more detailed guides all over the web.

This is one of the rules another forum I spend time on does. Edit your post and your bid doesn't count.

A few things that have not been mentioned yet: 1) Try to rinse your brush out between every trip from the mini. Just a quick swirl in the water to make sure paint isn't drying. 2) After swirling the brush in the water use your tongue to form the point back and suck the bit of water in the brush out. You can also use a paper towel but your tongue is faster. 3) Store your brush with the bristles UP with nothing covering them after forming the point with your fingers,tongue, or paper towel. This lets it dry quickly and maintains the point. 4) Get a puck of the Masters Brush Soap. The stuff is pixie dust, unicorn horn, and black magic all rolled into one. My wife left one of my W&N brushes full of paint over night (I was not happy), 4 applications of the soap to clean it out and it was like nothing had happened. *Note* to use the soap you put a drop of water on the puck, swirl your brush on the soap to load the bristles with soap, then rub the brush into the palm of your hand, rinse and repeat until you stop pulling color out of the brush. When you are done find a clean spot on the puck and load the brush with some clean soap, form the bristles to a nice point, and then store the brush like normal. DO NOT rinse it out. When you are ready to paint again just swirl in your water pot. 5) Make sure you are thinning your paints enough. Adding some water will just make it flow better and give you more consistent results. The amount that is needed depends on the color. Some I mix 50/50 others only get 1 drop. But the most important thing to remember is that these are very well made brushes. They are not some super fragile thing that will be ruined if you look at it funny. As long as you use them like a sensible adult don't tap into your inner 2nd grader you will be fine.

100% this. The guys worried about treating sable brushes like they are a delicate flower have it wrong. You CAN beat on them, you CAN shove them into small areas, etc. And as long as you take care of them by not dunking them all the way to the metal in paint, rinse them out regularly as you paint (a good swirl in a water cup every min or 2), form the tip back, and use Masters Brush Soap from time to time the brushes will outlast 100 cheap ass synthetic brushes. which saves you money. I still use the 3 Series 7's I bought 3 years ago. Cost me 25 for them + a puck of Masters. During that time I have never had to fight with the brush to keep a point, had a brush go from new to unusable in a single night of base coating, or been in the middle of a project late at night only to find that the brush I need is no longer usable because it's can't keep a tip.

The problem with using oils on minis is they just are not meant to be used on miniatures. The take for ever to dry and will cover any and all fine details. As AZ showed as well they are just a bad idea.

KR doesn't do custom cuts, but I belive it is their M foam that fits PW minis perfectly. Add in the owner of KR being freaking awesome vs the jerkoff who owns BF and it's any easy pick for me.

A note about the Series 7s: They come in 2 sizes Miniture Round and Pointed Round. If you are going to buy some make sure you get a size 0, a 1, and maybe a 2 in the Pointed Round. With those 3 brushes you can paint almost anything you want. The Miniture Rounds have the bristles recessed and are a bit smaller then the Pointed.