Sholto

Kaeris is an interesting option for Colette. While it might just be my desire to try out the Burning Counters she generates, I like the idea of her exploding a Mechanical Dove and giving every model within 3" a Counter, and then Immolating two of the most dangerous. With Colette chucking Doves and Kaeris blowing them up, they could be a formidable duo. Anyone tried them?

I used Wills Wood Planking (sheets of textured plastic), which I got from here - http://www.barrule.com/Workshop/scratch%20builders%20paradise/sheet%20materials.html That pack is enough to do a dozen Colette crews. You can also get wooden base inserts from eg. http://ironhalo.net, http://www.back2base-ix.com or Micro Arts Studios.

Perhaps so you can do this? Alternatively, putting 3 or 4 models in one pack would greatly increase the cost, and players who only play lower SS games will likely never field 2 Coryphee together, so forcing them to buy the double pack would be pretty harsh.

This is excellent - thanks for putting this together

You are starting off with two groups of models - the Colette Group and the Performer Group, 30"-36" apart. The idea is to get the Colette Group all the way over to the Performer Group in a single activation (say a Nytmare Bomb just arrived in your deployment zone!). Colette uses Illusionist on the 1st Mannequin and then uses it on the 2nd Mannequin, moving her a total of almost 36". Remember the 2nd Mannequin starts with the Performer Group. The rest of the Colette Group move approx 30", so both Groups end up right next to each other. Is that what you meant?

Agreed, but at lower Soulstones you can still do some pretty nifty tricks. Illusionist works in so many situations, and can be used to slingshot Colette or (if there's a Coryphee about) Cassandra >36" in a Turn. Kidnapping enemy models is fun, too. All you need is a Tome in your hand, an enemy 25" away, Colette, a Coryphee (or Cassandra), a Performer and a Mannequin linked to Colette. Activate the Mannequin, use Companion. The Coryphee (or Cassandra) activates and runs forward (16" in the case of the Coryphee or 15" in the case of Cassandra). Then get the Performer to Bash Colette. Trick the damage down to zero and cheat your Tome into Colette's Df total, activating her Trigger. The Performer gets Slow and Colette gets a free Illusionist. Use this to swap with the Coryphee (or Cassandra). Now activate Colette and cast Disappearing Act on the model you want to kidnap up to 8" away, then use Illusionist again to swap with your Linked Mannequin. After the swap Colette's activation ends and the Linked Mannequin jumps back to her. Result: one kidnapped model that will pop out in base contact with your heavy hitters at the start of the next Turn. Companion and destroy it, lather, rinse, repeat. And since it is Colette casting Disappearing Act, there is probably no chance of the opponent beating your casting total.

What gets me is its not just the movement of individual models, but the ability to move all your heavy hitters 30" in one go. And with Colette still having a Reactivate if she needs it Power Ritual would be easy with movement like this, as you say. In my sole game I tried Sabotage and, with the Coryphee's movement, knew that not only could I announce it safely, but that my model would almost certainly survive the Turn. It got there on Turn 1, Sabotaged the building and indeed stayed alive. I can't get too carried away with these girls, though, as I know that of the other crews I play Sonnia would tear the magic out of them and Perdita would still shoot them to pieces. Having fun so far, though

I am trying to think of different moves to pull off with my Colette crew, but I have only had one game with her so far, so would like to try this out here and see if I have missed anything. It is situational, obviously, and is a form of refused flank. Say I have Colette, two Coryphee, Cassandra, two Mannequins and two Performers (I do). I think I can deploy the two Performers and one Mannequin way over on the right, everyone else way over on the left, and get them all together again in a single activation. This can be effective if your opponent has also split his deployment to match your own, as you can then gang up on one part of his crew with all of your own. Deploy Colette, two Coryphee, Cassandra and Mannequin 1 in a bunch. Make sure Mannequin 1 is in base contact with Coryphee 1. Deploy the two Performers and Mannequin 2 about 30"-36" away. Activate Mannequin 2 and Link(0) to a Performer. Don't Companion, though. Your opponent will Activate a model. After that comes your Big Move! Activate Mannequin 1. Declare Companion, so Colette, the two Coryphee and Cassandra will all activate simultaneously. Link(0) to Coryphee 1. Activate Coryphee 1. It moves twice, covering 16". Mannequin 1 is placed in base contact, probably on the other side of the Coryphee to put it 18" from Colette. Activate Colette. She uses Illusionist on Mannequin 1 and swaps places with it, and then uses Illusionist on Mannequin 2 and swaps with it. Wheee! Activate Coryphee 2. It uses Dance Partner, and you place it in base contact with Coryphee 1. You then use Dance Together and place a Coryphee Duet in base contact with Coryphee 2, and then remove Coryphees 1 & 2. The Coryphee Duet activates immediately. It was not around to receive Companion, although arguably Companion transfers to it as an effect anyway, but in any event under the rules for Replacing models, the Coryphee Duet activates immediately. It can use any AP or actions the Replaced models did not use, so it can use Fast(+1) and (if it wants) 3 (0) Actions. The Link also transfers to the Coryphee Duet. The Coryphee Duet uses Fast(+1) to move another 9". Mannequin 1 is then placed in base contact with the Coryphee Duet. Activate Cassandra. She uses Nimble to move twice, for a total of 10" and then uses Dance Partner to be placed in base contact with the Coryphee Duet. Remember that provided the Coryphee Duet is within 18" of Cassandra you can place Cassandra in base contact on eg. the far side - for an extra free 2" of movement! Total move approx 30" in a single activation. This leaves Mannequin 2 rather alone and in the middle of your deployment zone. You did leave the poor thing in cover, yes? Your opponent will get one activation, and then when you activate the Linked Performer the Mannequin will snap back and your whole crew will be 28" or more away from where they started. Thoughts? Comments? Corrections? Improvements?

Yeah, but he pulls the legs off beetles... @Nerdelemental: Hoffman has come to Malifaux just to get on with getting on, and been caught up in things he doesn't fully understand. He is being manipulated by Ramos and used by the Governor - I guess we'll see what way he jumps! How about Molly? Okay, so she's one of the Evil Dead, but there's something human ticking away beneath the surface there. At least, I reckon there is.

I agree with AvatarForm - the Guild are the Man, although the Neverborn aren't really the blue dudes in Avatar. Although they are the ones being invaded, we have it on decent authority (the rules, for one) that they are truly brutal, sadistic and cruel I don't think there are any out and out good guys in Malifaux, just people trying to get by, and lots of shades of grey to keep things interesting. Even the supposedly good guys (eg. Perdita) are arguably just doing what they are good at, rather than on any mission to Do the Right Thing. Lady J has yet to show anything other her authoritarian jackboot side, and Sonnia is off on a jolly of her own these days. Ramos as the People's Champion? Discuss There are plenty of out and out bad guys, though - it is hard to see the redeeming sides of Seamus or Lord Chompy Bits or new Hamelin.

Simply awesome

Nice write up, and that line about the undead wife is a keeper! Genius

As much as I am a fan of magnets (and I loves me some rare-earth action), I am a bit wary about using them with metal models. I could have put 6mm magnets on the - let's call them half-bases - but I would play in mortal fear of wobblyness and falling over on inclines and such. Maybe use magnetic card/ metal sheet for the half-base and embed the rare-earth magnets in the plastic base? That'd probably work.

Incredible work. The plaid on Seamus is worth a round of applause alone.

Very nice. Good strong colours, and I love the doves. That blue dress is very striking, as well.

What do I mean by "swappable Coryphee"? I mean being a cheapskate and not wanting to buy another blister of the killer mannequins just to make the Coryphee Duet version on the super-sized, 50mm base. Plus, I love a modelling challenge I thought about magnets, but while the crouching Coryphee (Crouching Coryphee, Hidden Colette?) could be dealt with in this way, the other is standing on only a single foot. Tough to magnetise that at all, let alone securely. I have seen some pinning approaches, but this one is a little different. Pics will explain it best:- Apologies, but my camera is still on its last legs, and I haven't got a new one yet. Pinning this model was easy - there are two 0.8mm paperclips in her base. The base is wooden-textured plasticard from Wills Models. This model was trickier to pin. I got one 0.8mm paperclip into her forefoot, but had to settle for a 0.5mm length of brass rod in her heel. She is very secure But that is not the whole story - I had to find a way to combine them on a single 50mm base. Here is the 50mm base, along with a doughnut of the Wills plasticard added. The middle is exactly the right size to allow me to do this:- Turn around, girls, let's get a good look at you: And, if it's not obvious from those pics, here is how it's all done: Each of the 40mm base inserts has been cut in half. One half is glued solidly to the 40mm base, but the other (the one with the model pinned and glued to it) is doubled in thickness and has three 0.8mm paperclip pins inserted in the bottom. Then, three matching holes are drilled in the 40mm base. The pins sit in these very snugly and securely. But it is quick and easy to lift the models out with their half-bases attached and plug them into the matching holes in the 50mm base. It took a long time to make, but I think it's worth it, if only to save me buying and painting another two Coryphee (and, to be honest, the painting is the bit that takes me forever!). The cutting of the bases and the pinning had to very precise. For anyone interested in trying this, I recommend getting a circular cutter. Make sure the join of two 'boards' on the textured plasticard runs down the centre of your bases - it makes everything symmetrical. For making the holes for the pins, make a jig and use it for the 40mm and 50mm bases. That way, either model will fit on either base, and on either side of the 50mm base. Lastly, test out your pose, since you wouldn't want to pin those arms in place only to find that your models will no longer fit on the 50mm base face to face. And no, this didn't happen to me, but I can imagine the horror I would have felt if it had C&C welcome.

I think the Steamborg can ignore the Ability that says only Ramos can heal him, due to Hoffman being there.

I don't count cards, but if I did I would use a simple +/- system. A 6 or a 7 is a zero. Anything higher than that is + the difference, so a 10 would be +3. Anything lower is - the difference, so an Ace would be -5. So if you draw a 9 (+2), an 11 (+4) and a 3 (-3), your running total is +3, meaning your remaining deck has a slight bias to lower cards. The larger the number gets (+ or -) the greater the bias remaining in the deck, so if you are about to press the game, but you have a slim deck left and it's at +25, probably best to fall back and wait for the next Turn. Unless you have a killer hand, that is Which is why counting your opponent's cards will never give you a complete picture, since you won't know what he's holding. Ethically, I think this kind of counting is a grey area. You are probably doing it subconsciously anyway to some degree (keeping track of your run of good/ bad luck, and you just have a funny feeling there must be some high cards coming). I might enjoy trying it as an intellectual exercise, but I personally wouldn't do the real thing in an actual game.

Very nice, and it could work for any number of games.

Lol! That music is deep-fried awesome

I put up a little demo of how the magnets work in practice - [ame] [/ame]

I stick the outside on the foamcore, and then cut that out, but I don't yet cut out the indents in the top of the railings. Then I flip the foamcore over and stick the inside on, lining it up as best I can. Then I cut out the indents in the railings and ink the edges. Best to use the 3" railing instead of the 6" railing, I find. The 6" railing has loads of the indents, and they are fiddlesome to cut out. Yes, it's a word The 3" railing only has two across the 6" width, so use them instead. You can see them on top of the 2 storey piece.

Here's an update photo - just about done now. New are the two 12"x12" raised sections in both corners. They have some support underneath to stop them sagging if I put a heavy building on them. Found a much better way to stop models slipping on the ramps (sorry about the photo quality - my camera is dying and is overexposing everything). I printed another copy of the ramp top onto card and cut out slices at 1" intervals, each slice 2/16" thick. Discard the thicker sections. After inking the edges I simply glued the thin slices onto the ramp. The models catch on them easily and stay put, and it is almost impossible to tell the slices are there unless you get within about 6".

Yes. When printing your PDF, make sure you have scaling set to "None". By default most printers will scale the PDF to the page margins, but you need to turn this off to preserve the page size. If you are still having trouble try the WWG forums - they have screeds of help on this sort of stuff, but mine print fine - 6" square exactly, with scaling turned off. Sholto

@Chev - interesting you mention MDF. I was in B&Q at the weekend pricing some for V2 of this terrain. B&Q will cut the wood for you - 9 12" squares of 6mm MDF cut for £18. I am planning on using MDF for V2 not because there is anything wrong with the cork tiles, but because I need the rigidity of MDF for the river sections I am designing.