Bexley

Whoa! Mirelurk!

Not to make it sound like my final round loss was so devastating I couldn't pick up the brushes again. I just hadn't had the time. This one was for the Cipher/Anima Wissenschaft Agent contest. The winner gets some store credit, and the winning fig becomes Cipher's studio master. In usual IP fashion, I put it off, then forgot, and remembered the day before. So, as per my usual MO, it was rushed. Overall, things could be a lot smoother. Even so, I ended up winning.

Don't be! I should never ever be taken seriously. I will get it when the game comes out.

You could get pieces of acrylic (Plexiglas/Lucite/Perspex), cut them into jagged shapes, and then brush a low torch flame over them, which will melt the cut marks together and make them transparent again. It's how we used to make ice cubes that wouldn't melt for TV commercials. Hm. If I have any scraps around (I'll check when I get home) I'll do a quick tutorial.

Play outdoor games in December. Then you could use real ice. Hey- is the Cult of December called the Cult of June in Australia?

Looks like you're all out of luck. A Google search for Colt+Peacemaker+Cowboy+Hat+Real+Doll came up empty.

Liar! If you were really sorry, you'd send me a White Speaker for free!! (No go? Damn. Worth a try, anyway. ) I've signed up for the mailing list now, so I shouldn't miss the next one. Even if it has a cheesecake factor of zero. (Still looks pretty awesome, though. Even without tits!)

Could I get a 54mm Perdita? And not let anybody else have one?

Mailing list? Huh. I must have missed that first time around. Though, it's not that big a deal. It'll be available again when they launch their game, so it's not like I'll never get one. I just have to wait.

It would be a very good idea to announce on the blog when a figure is available, givem that you are only doing limited runs right now. I really wanted the last one, so I subscribed to the blog, assuming it would be mentioned when it was available. Apparently it never was, and is now sold out.

Hey, I stick to what I'm good at.

When's the next Iron Painter?

The game doesn't interest me (yet) but I am all for more near-future post apocalyptic-themed figures. If only it was 54mm. (Heh.)

White spirit = mineral spirits. It would probably be okay to use, but always test first. You'd probably be better getting the odorless variety, which is a little more refined. And less stinky.

Stunning rilts? That doesn't make any sense.

I second watered down white PVA glue. (We usually call it Elmer's glue or school glue here in the states.) (Though, I actually use watered down matte medium instead, since white glue isn't water proof when it's dry. This would only be necessary if you paint your terrain with a lot of washes like I do, which have a tendency to re-wet the PVA glue.) I usually glue sand down with watered down glue, let it dry, then use a dropper bottle (or spray bottle like Pensfan said, if it's a large area) to drip more watered down glue. Make sure to really soak it, so that it all binds together when dry. Then I go over that with latex paint, which really seals it all down nicely. For static grass, I use the matte medium.

Well, I usually build buildings like the one in the photo using "board-by-board"- that is, I build individual stud walls much like a real building, using the correct sizes of scaled down basswood. Then I glue slats on those, making sure to overhang the corners on two opposite walls enough to cover the ends of the other walls when I assemble them. It's very time consuming, but if you want a detailed interior, it's the best way to go. If it's a solid building with no interior detailing, then I would build a foamcore shell and glue thin sheets of basswood which I'd scored with vertical lines to look like individual slats. You could use individual slats if you wanted, but take care to make sure they fit together tightly so that you can't see foamcore between slats. (For board-by-board, it's not as much a concern, and for a ramshackle building, you may even want to leave spaces or broken boards.) The site will be up... someday. I need to learn enough PHP security to keep the commies from hacking it again, which is the main thing holding me back, as I just haven't had the time. If I hadn't gotten laid off in January, I might actually have a pretty good reference book to point you to.

Not true! Just look at Mutant Chron... Oh.

Just do what I do and scratchbuild everything. Then your doors will always be large enough.

Except maybe Verlinden. They're way too hit or miss, and you often don't get exactly what's on the box.

This is probably because the most popular railroad scale (and by "most popular" I mean many many times more popular) is HO, which is about 1:87- much too small. The average O scale train car is going to be about 3.5-4" tall, and about 12" long. However, outside of Lionel, most hobby stores won't carry much if any O scale. You'll have to go online.

Unless, of course, you do a lot of work in 54mm. For me, scale=TEH AWESOME.

Do they make those!? ME WANT.

O scale. But be wary when buying track and trains, as O Gauge is sort of a different thing. O scale is 1:48 in the US, 1:43.5 in the UK, and 1:45 in the rest of Europe. For the most part, any of those should be close enough to work, though you may occasionally get a piece that looks the wrong size, especially when dealing with items that are commonly seen with people. (For example, a dog in the wrong scale may be noticeable when placed next to a figure, but nobody will probably notice if a mine cart is a little big or small, since you don't see them everyday and don't have a reference point to compare to.) O Gauge refers to tracks made for the O Scale, but within O Gauge there are a number of different track sizes, representing different standards around the world for the width between rails. Usually they are denoted by modifiers, such as On3 or O-27. It's not a huge matter for models, but if you want track and a train to go on them, you'll want to be sure both track and train are of the same guage, or they won't work together. Lionel (and K-Line) are sort of "brands" that don't really go by scale, as they sort of assume you're buying all Lionel stuff if you have a Lionel layout. However, both of those brands are roughly O-scale, and will work. Though, they are often a little simplified in design and may look too toy-like with the rest of your stuff.

Nope. If it doesn't involve a stick and a pair of steel blades, it's not a sport worth following.