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Dreamer Crew complete... I'm doing it wrong, but it works.


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Thought I would post this, as I just finished basing them and am rather proud.

As for how I'm doing it wrong... uh, wow, this is hard to admit...

I paint with Testor enamels... please don't throw things at me. I know they don't come up ultra realistic, but meh, they work for what I want them to be.

The bases are hand made using flat tooth picks and a dusting of grey to weather them a bit, and are accented with the orphanage pieces from Wyrd.

I have individual model pics if anyone is interested. (Updated: more pics added)

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Edited by Athan Allgood
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Actually,.. your bases look really good. They have a nice "weathered wood" look to them.

But as for your use of testors paints,.... for the love of God,.. please don't,... (and don't be surprised if others chime in on this. Painting mini's with testors is more or less considered a crime by most hobbyists.) But I assume that you knew that,.. seeing as how you asked us not to throw things at you. *grin*

Edited by Webmonkey
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Thanks :)

And yeah, I know, I really do.

My problem started with the fact that I kind of just fell into this wargaming thing. I started out as an RPG guy, then picked up some mini's for tabletop mapping. I enjoyed it enough to keep painting, but never for a real game prior to Malifaux.

I originally went with testors because I had used them for model cars as a kid and, really, didnt know any better.

So, having gathered my supplies I just kept going with them. I dont play tournaments or in any LGS, just at home with friends, so I've never been shamed into changing them.

This, combined with the expense of gathering a full set of quality supplies has just kept me in a rut with the crap I've always used.

That said, should I ever have a few hundred bucks fall into my lap and nothing better to do with it (...not likely) I would totally stock myself with real paints. I know it would help me get past the low skill ceiling I am currently at.

Edited by Athan Allgood
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Well,.. it's not as bad as all that. Just get a few bottles at a time. My recommendations are as follows,..

Black (you will use more of this then just about any other color)

Silver

Brown (I prefer red-browns for leather, but it's up to you)

White

Flesh tone

Those will do a large percentage of what you need and will only cost about $20. Then when you have another $20 to spare, pick up a few other basics. Blue, red, green, yellow, and maybe another metallic like gold or maybe a black wash. You can actually do a lot with just those ten colors or so.

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They're (a) painted and (B) painted better than most stuff you see on the table top. If you hit them with Dullcoat no-one will know they were painted with enamels unless you tell them. Until you feel the need or desire to start developing new and improved painting skills, stick with what you've got. They look just great the way they are. (But, yeah, get a good matt varnish.)

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I think they look very nice actually. What's the issue with the paints anyway? Is it some kind of hobbiest faux pas, or are enamel paints made of dissolved orphans or something?

I especially like the little details like the mirror on the Dreamer's base and the little rocking horse for Teddy.

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N.Hater: I haven't made a dreamer list yet that uses more than 2 Daydreams, and haven't had enough play time with him to know if I really should be running the third.

But mostly, the Daydreams are just boring as frak to paint. I quickly did up the two most interesting ones and moved on to bigger fish.

Don't get me wrong, you can make almost anything interesting if you're willing to put enough time into it... I just wasn't.

Same reason I haven't touched my Fire Gamin yet from the Kerris set... flame effects are okay, but the models have absolutely nothing else going for them. Another example: Colettes doves; the idea of wasting my time on them when there's a Mature Nephilim sitting over there just makes them feel like busy work.

---------- Post added at 04:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ----------

A.Badger: Without having used proper acrylics I can't comment through experience on the differences, only pass on what I've heard.

First, enamels tend to go on much thicker. This can lead to easy coverage of areas, but tends to cover up detail work on the models that thinner acrylics let stand out. I can thin my paints, and do, but the use of any thinned paints over previously painted areas is risky if the base isn't 100% dry. On the up side, my figures do tend to have a natural protection vs. scratches and chips.

Second, they require the use of thinner vs. simple old water. This makes clean up a right royal pain in the arse (I have gotten used to smelling like paint thinner after painting nights). The one benefit I do see (based on reading) is that thinned enamels for washes dont seem to have the same water tension issues that standard modeling paints do at times (I've never had to look into the floor polish trick).

Third, the drying times for enamels are, in my experience, harsh. I read about people doing multiple coats minutes apart with acrylics and think to myself "must be nice". I normally either focus of different parts of models in hour long(ish) segments, or have two models on the go at a time when I get into a painting frenzy.

Finally, enamels tend to have a natural sheen to them that prevents an easily attainable "realistic" look. As I tend to enjoy more pronounced lines, and really REALLY hate the dusty worn look that so many models end up with, this has rarely bothered me too much. That said, my regular human figs always end up looking a little plastic'y.

I'm pretty much at the point that I'm ready to give up the old testor pots and pick up some proper acrylics. I've listed what I need/ want for a good base palette and it equals to about 13 colours. At, say, $5 each that is a nice chunk to lay down at once, however, so it may not happen quickly. Also, I am nervous about having to learn how to paint all over again.

Soon, though. Soon.

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