adary Posted January 5, 2013 Report Share Posted January 5, 2013 The metal looks pretty good. I would add a touch of edge highlight to it to make it pop even more. Otherwise it pretty perfect Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilbleachman Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 As of this post I actually have already finished painting the model. I wanted to post the steps throughout the weekend, but I just didn't have the time, so now you will get all of them in one rush. Haha. Now to get all draped! Step One: Base Coat A simple step, as always. Base coated the cloth on the mount's arse with MC's Bronze Green (I seriously love this color!). Neat stuff! Step Two: Washing As with most of the sections I paint, this will get washed as well with Badab Black. I want the rest of the model to be relatively dark in comparison to the mount. This will help give some contrast and give a sinister look to it. Step Three: Highlighting All I did was highlight the cloth with the same green tone as before and mixed in a little bit of Bleached Bone for that final hard highlight. Easy Peasy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agermemnon Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 Evilbleachman Good one for doing a blow by blow account and the mini is looking brilliant, but I have a question regarding the paint ranges you're using, GC = Vallejo game colour and GW = Games workshop I assume but I'm lost on SWW ? what's that please. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilbleachman Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 GC is Game Color and MC is Model Color, both by Vallejo. GW is Citadel, or Games Workshop and SWW is Secret Weapon Wash. I actually wanted to drop the whole rest of the 'tutorial' at once but got hindered. Haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agermemnon Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 GC is Game Color and MC is Model Color, both by Vallejo. GW is Citadel, or Games Workshop and SWW is Secret Weapon Wash. I actually wanted to drop the whole rest of the 'tutorial' at once but got hindered. Haha. Thank you for letting me know, much appreciated and keep the thread going as it's very informative. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilbleachman Posted January 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 No problem! Glad you like it! Though I am not really going much into depth on the paint jobs. The main process is pretty simple. Base coat and highlight. I will go into more depth on my color choices the coming steps. Basically the rest of the model is going to become pretty dark, except for the rider's skin. This is to clash severely with the mount. As well as the base, which actually looks damn awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adary Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 GC is Game Color and MC is Model Color, both by Vallejo. GW is Citadel, or Games Workshop and SWW is Secret Weapon Wash. I actually wanted to drop the whole rest of the 'tutorial' at once but got hindered. Haha. Just a note from an insider about Vallejo GC and MC. They are 100% the same, with different names slapped on. Some 6 years ago, GW wanted to change manufacturer of their colors, and they started working with Vallejo. They worked together for about a year, developed all of GW formula's, and then the deal fell through. What did happen is that Vallejo ended up keeping all of GW formulas, they use them for GC range, and the MC range. Only difference between the two ranges is that MC has much more shades (i think close to 250), but it's all based on the old GW formula (which is actually incredibly amazing). Model Air is a unique formula from Vallejo, and so are their heavy pigment range, washes, and my personal favorites - liquid gold range. Rant over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durek Posted January 7, 2013 Report Share Posted January 7, 2013 (edited) Great work so far, looking forward to more. I really like your undead flesh tutorial Just a note from an insider about Vallejo GC and MC. They are 100% the same, with different names slapped on. Only difference between the two ranges is that MC has much more shades (i think close to 250), but it's all based on the old GW formula (which is actually incredibly amazing). Model Air is a unique formula from Vallejo, and so are their heavy pigment range, washes, and my personal favorites - liquid gold range. Rant over Actually no there not. There is a very diffrent feel to them. Game colours are much more bright in nature and are meant for most "fantasy" wargames. The formula is also much more durable with almost a latex feel that wont rub off if someone desires not to seal for whatever reason. Model colour is their line for military games and model cars and such; and is much less durable to handling and wears off slightly easier. They are more muted colour that the "bright" game colour line. They do produce the Flames of War line paints which is mostly a relable (rename) of the model colour line which might be where your confusion comes from. Great range of paints though ---------- Post added at 09:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:31 AM ---------- Found a better definition in their FAQ "Vallejo offers four different water-based chemical formulas in these colors lines, each one created for a particular segment of the hobby market, but all compatible with one another. Model Color and Panzer Aces are creamy, highly opaque acrylics formulated principally for brush application: the two ranges total some 246 matte colors and mediums, and 8 brilliant alcohol based metallic colors. Game Color has been developed for tabletop games. The range consists of 119 acrylic colors, washes and inks; designed for painting small figures, the formula has a lower viscosity than Model Color and a resin more resistant to frequent handling. The colors provide opaque coverage without loss of minute detail. Model Air is a line of 129 colors which have been formulated especially for airbrushing, although they are also frequently used for painting small details with a brush. These product lines are further augmented with a line of Washes, and a complete assortment of Medium, Varnishes and auxiliary products. Premium Color, a new range of 51 colors and 8 auxiliary products, developed with a new hybrid acrylic-polyurethane resin of extreme strength, has been designed principally for use in an Airbrush and for surfaces exposed to handling and exterior conditions." Edited January 7, 2013 by durek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilbleachman Posted January 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 Thanks for the informative posts on those paints. I didn't even know any of that stuff. I am just some nab, who chooses colors by their looks. xD Here the next steps to paint on my Dead Rider. Step One: Base Coat As usual I choose a color I want to base the next section of the model on. I wanted to go for those elongated horns attached to the rear end of the mount's skull. Since these have some funky runes etched into them, I wanted to go for a more mystical look to them. So I started it off with a light silver tone: GW's Mithral Silver. Step Two: Darkened Highlights What I now do, is take Boltgun Metal and slowly and lightly dry brush the tips and the base of the horns. I leave the mid-section untouched and pure silver, silver. Towards the bottom and tip I make it increasingly more dark. This will give off a nice effect once the horns are finished. Step Three: Making it Mystical Wash with a thinned Amethyst wash (SWW). I went for purple since it is a color I have every once in a while on the model and which will also occur more often later, when I get to the rider. The great thing is that since I drybrushed the horns, instead of using a regular layer method, I managed to keep the runes inside in the light silver tone, meanin they are more bright and glow better, had they been painted dark as well. Step Four: Darker Still I used Badab Black wash to make the bottom and the tips of the horns a bit darker. As you can see this helps give those horns a special shine to them, focused on their 'centers'. Woop, woop! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Agermemnon Posted January 8, 2013 Report Share Posted January 8, 2013 Keep up the good work Evilbleachman and I was wondering did you have any trouble assembling this mini, I only ask because I saw a vid on youtube about pinning and the guy was not to impressed with the way this mini needs putting together. I'll put it up here if your curious about what was said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilbleachman Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Thanks! I didn't really have any trouble, as such. It did take some time to clean up the model and pin him together. It is generally better to pin larger metallic models, in order to keep them stable. It did take me about an hour and a half or so to do the whole job and get him on the base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Math Mathonwy Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 A very nice tutorial! You're getting way too few thanks for this But seriously, a very nice step-by-step. Using your hand as the background distorts the white balance somewhat, though. I do, however, understand that fixing it for this many pics is a lot of work and you seem to have a pretty good camera (the distortion isn't all that great). But please, keep it up. A joy to read! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilbleachman Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Thanks! I actually do not have a light box of some sort to take photos. Plus my lighting is super terrible. I have to hold up the models close up to the lamp in order to take a 'decent' photograph. I do plan on setting up a little station to take pics of stuff I want to sell on Ebay. I planned on sneaking in a few photos of my models as well and update my threads, accordingly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Math Mathonwy Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Thanks! I actually do not have a light box of some sort to take photos. Have you seen this: http://dragonpainting.net/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=3193 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilbleachman Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Stealing it. Gotta find a container like that though. :0 We don't have those here in Germany. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Math Mathonwy Posted January 9, 2013 Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 Stealing it. Gotta find a container like that though. :0 We don't have those here in Germany. In that case, IKEA to the rescue: http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.se/2010/02/tutorial-how-to-build-photo-setup.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilbleachman Posted January 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2013 <3 Awesome. Awesome much! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Space Donkey Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 First off I have say that I love your dead flesh effects from this thread and the others I've seen. It's definitely some of the best I've seen. And secondly, I actually tried my hand at making the crackle bases following the guide over on Herdstone before I went to bed last night. When I got home from work tonight I was very satisfied. There is some room for improvement as far as application and getting the "right" type of cracked earth effect, but it's a damn fine result for a total out of pocket cost of $2 for the crackle paint, some old fantasy bases, and Elmer's glue I've had laying around for a couple years. I don't know if you can get the Tim Holtz Distress Crackle paint in Deutschland used in that tutorial, but if you can I give it a glowing review and would suggest it to anyone wanting a dead earth style base. It might even work for lava or ice with enough effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilbleachman Posted January 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Thanks! That stuff actually looks pretty fun. Though I do like how my base turned out (painted too). See what I do not like on that stuff are the huge cracks. They surely look nice, but it is a little too extreme for me. I like the effect on mine because the cracks are subtle and simple. Maybe even freshly made, by the death brought with the rider and his steed. I'd actually see that more for kind of a stoney lava, where the recesses are painted in orange and red tones to present lava and the rest would be obsidian stone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoeRender Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 The horse is looking awesome , I love the lighter skin it really will make that model pop on the table . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Meat Puppet Posted January 10, 2013 Report Share Posted January 10, 2013 Very cool. Thanks for sharing the process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilbleachman Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Slight necro. I will post more images soon. Totally forgot about this thread, haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_was_like_you Posted April 25, 2013 Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 Slight necro. I will post more images soon. Totally forgot about this thread, haha. Glad I didn't find it until now then, as the suspense of waiting to see the model finished for the last few months woulda be awful. Put the gremlins down and finish posting the rest. :-P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evilbleachman Posted April 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2013 I finished the model ages ago. I even took the pictures. I do not know why I never finished this thread. Looks like I got something to do this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Ned Posted April 26, 2013 Report Share Posted April 26, 2013 Can't wait Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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