Malifauxcurr Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 What am I doing wrong?! Whenever I try and add a wash to a mini, it never seems to pool properly in the recesses, and marbles up staining the regular surface area. I've primarily stuck with P3 and citadel inks/washes, and I've tried using then straight out of the bottle and I've tried thinning it with varying degrees of water. I just don't get how to use it properly. On a related note, has anybody ever used the Army Painter Quick Shade stuff? Just curious if it's good or worth it before dropping 30 bucks on a can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadilon Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 This is something I struggle with as well and I use GW washes. I like the effect better than not washing, but it gives my models a generally overall dark tone. I've base coated, THEN washed, and gone back and hit some highlights with lighter colors, but that doesn't help as much as I'd like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadilon Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 On a related note, has anybody ever used the Army Painter Quick Shade stuff? Just curious if it's good or worth it before dropping 30 bucks on a can. I've looked into the Quick Shade. I think it fits a certain niche that doesn't include me. There are people that are either painting a large number of models or just HATE the idea of painting at all. They can base coat 3-4 colors, hit it with Quick Shade and they'll have a pretty good looking model in 15-25 minutes per model, if even that. I've seen some models dipped in QS and they do look pretty good. But they still aren't up to my personal standards. I am really interested in painting and improving as an artist. I get great enjoyment out of putting a lot into a model; from planning the color scheme to using unique and interesting basing. I don't mind spending 6-8 hours on just painting one model to get it to where I am proud of it. I feel I can afford to do that with Malifaux since I don't have to field 30 models for a game. So, for some people it is really worth it. For others, like me, not so much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Huang Da Wei Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 I tend to just use watered down paint, such as black or if its flesh colour I used watered down vallejo flat earth Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Culven Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 I know the marbling issue, and I have found it is typically due to the wash being too watery. I typically use GW Washes, and I will thin it slightly with water. This tends to keep it from being too dark without climbing out of the recesses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sleeper00 Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 The main problem I had with using washes is that I was more trying to paint it on then slop it on. I know it sounds odd, but i wasnt using anywhere near enough wash on the model. Once i saw a friend really pooling the wash in the down areas and then maybe going back and taking a little off with a brush helped me a lot. As a practice, just get a model you can practice on and just slop the ink so you can see if that is the issue. I know it was before I saw how others did it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nilus Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 Someone already said the trick. The base way to use the washes it to base coat, wash, then go back and reapply the base to the high areas and then highlight. Thats what I have always done. The Army painter stuff interested me as well. Not for my Malifaux stuff but for the 40+ puppet wars puppets I need to paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muribundi Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 A wee drop of dawn in the wash should break the surface tension so the ink goes into the cracks and not on raised surfaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Malifauxcurr Posted August 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 The Army painter stuff interested me as well. Not for my Malifaux stuff but for the 40+ puppet wars puppets I need to paint. Exactly why I was asking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chev Chelios Posted August 31, 2011 Report Share Posted August 31, 2011 A wee drop of dawn in the wash should break the surface tension so the ink goes into the cracks and not on raised surfaces. I do this as well. You would be surprised how it changes the quality of the ink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Backno Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 Part of it can also be you just kind of slopping it on. If you use a nice brush, and carefully put the wash where you want it you will get a better effect out of it/less mess to clean up after the fact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsmiles Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 A wee drop of dawn in the wash should break the surface tension so the ink goes into the cracks and not on raised surfaces.Huh. I'll have to try that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymric Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 I use this wash http://www.paintingclinic.com/clinic/guestarticles/magicwash.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fishboy Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 I water my washes down to the point they are see through. This gives me more control over the washes and I add multiple washes to get the affect I need. If a wash goes somewhere you want then you can take a dry paint brush to it and it will absorb the excess wash and you can try it again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistycalla71 Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Here are some alternate ideas I came across researching good fix-it-problem . In the US the company Pledge carries a clear acrylic floor varnish w/Future shine called floor care for tile/vinyl. Use it in place of water to dilute your color of choice-try to keep the result fairly see-thru like how GW washes or thinner.....it comes out semi-glossy though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistycalla71 Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 The cure for the semi-glossy results just dull down with a coat of Dullcoat or add some water..Another more expensive choice would be to turn to artist's paints like Liquitex Matte Medium. Again mix with color and thin down a little with water...Pooling it directly to recesses does help with control and having a dry brush on hand to dry overpooling or Qtips. If clings to a raised surface use a moistened stiff bristle to remove quickly before it sets. The matte medium is a prefect dull result. Practice on unloved figures see how it moves and settles or could try slopping it on a fresh based coat fig to make the detail stand out more just paint over it. This idea will also help smooth out a crappy priming. Hope this helps .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leeoaks Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 you should be able to pull the unwanted wash away after the application of wash. Its like a lazy version of feathering. you also need to check how you apply your base coat, its very important to get it smooth or this will add to that horrible pool effect you get. Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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