Soylent Posted February 13, 2011 Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 I'm new to Malifaux but a long time miniature gamer. I've a question on putting together the SA and SAS. I've seen it mentioned before that magnetizing them so you can swap them between the 30 and 40mm bases. If you've done that or know someone who has could you explain your technique? I've some 1/8" magnets but the spiders seem extremely fragile to put a magnet in their underbelly. I've considered just putting them on a brass rod where I can just loose pin them to the base. Advice welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scurry Posted February 13, 2011 Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 the best thing ive seen done is to put the magnet on the bottom of something such as a cog or pile of scrap and glue the spider to that, then just take the whole thing of the base when they swarm together or apart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ropetus Posted February 13, 2011 Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 the best thing ive seen done is to put the magnet on the bottom of something such as a cog or pile of scrap and glue the spider to that, then just take the whole thing of the base when they swarm together or apart This. Not only does it look like very good when the spiders are crawling across a scrapyard, the Arachnids are so small it will most likely be a royal pain to magnetize them all. -Ropetus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soylent Posted February 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2011 Thanks a bunch! After I saw your reply, I realized i misspelled arachnid in my search which would have led me to a thread you just described. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kaane Feinwong Posted February 14, 2011 Report Share Posted February 14, 2011 (edited) what I did was glue the magnet to the base and put each spider on a washer. Becareful though. depending on your base, get a magnet that's at an 8 or 9. If your base is really thick, then you can jump to the 10, but if you're not careful, they will stick REALLY well and you'll end up pulling their little legs off. I used these: http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.aspx?ItemId=153236 I like the scrap idea too. I should have done that! You can scatter some scrap on both bases, but leave enough for you to place your spiders. caution, metal within the megnetic field becomes magnetized as well and your spiders will stick to that. Here is a shot of mine on the left. Edited February 14, 2011 by Kaane Feinwong Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoozleWozzle Posted May 28, 2011 Report Share Posted May 28, 2011 (edited) the best thing ive seen done is to put the magnet on the bottom of something such as a cog or pile of scrap and glue the spider to that, then just take the whole thing of the base when they swarm together or apart This. Not only does it look like very good when the spiders are crawling across a scrapyard, the Arachnids are so small it will most likely be a royal pain to magnetize them all. Do either of you have pics? Edited May 28, 2011 by WoozleWozzle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theHman Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 I just super glued a magnet to the bottom of each spider, and then glued some watch parts on my resin inserts. Done and done. Now my spiders can go from single to swarm with just a switch of the base. You can get watch parts on ebay for a few bucks. I get my magnets from K&J magnets. I'll be taking pics of my crew shortly if you'd like me to show you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoozleWozzle Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 I just super glued a magnet to the bottom of each spider, and then glued some watch parts on my resin inserts. Done and done. Now my spiders can go from single to swarm with just a switch of the base. You can get watch parts on ebay for a few bucks. I get my magnets from K&J magnets. I'll be taking pics of my crew shortly if you'd like me to show you. Sounds awesome, please do! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 (edited) I've used GW hatches and Platformer Chemical Plant stuff to give a standard fitting. As you can see each 40mm base has a pipe fitting and a hatch fitting in it. I've textured under the hatch so if necessary I can run a swarm with 1 or 2 spiders on it if I need more individuals. Though it's unlikely I will need to as I've got another 3 individual spiders. The the hatch and pipe are magnitised so 1 of each can be added to each swarm base. Or onto individual bases. Edited June 8, 2011 by Ratty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoozleWozzle Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 I've used GW hatches and Platformer Chemical Plant stuff to give a standard fitting. *snip* That looks awesome! Can you link to the pieces you mention? I keep finding Pegasus stuff that doesn't look the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoozleWozzle Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Also, what colors and washes do you use to get your steampunk metallic effects? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 That looks awesome! Can you link to the pieces you mention? I keep finding Pegasus stuff that doesn't look the same. Nope it is the Pegasus stuff, but I've not used huge amounts of it, and mixed it in with the hatches off Leman Russes and Rhinos. http://www.thewarstore.com/product18602.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Also, what colors and washes do you use to get your steampunk metallic effects? That's a bit had to explain, a lot of it is done with drybrushing, but there is also washes of vermin brown in areas to add rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoozleWozzle Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Is there a particular metallic you're using? I'm trying to get a bronze color that's not too red or too yellow, but your coppery color on the pipes, etc. looks good too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty Posted June 8, 2011 Report Share Posted June 8, 2011 Is there a particular metallic you're using? I'm trying to get a bronze color that's not too red or too yellow, but your coppery color on the pipes, etc. looks good too. I start with Tin Bitz, then dry brush up to Brazen brass which is no longer made, then up to chainmail. I then normally give a wash of GW Brown ink, also no longer made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theHman Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 HOLY COW Ratty!!!! That is awesome! Way cooler than what I did. @Wozzle: I'll try and get you some pics this week. I'm busy with putting together a Mega Chompy bits right now and I haven't finished my spiders yet... But will try and do it all this week. Really shouldn't take me too long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theHman Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 For painting my spiders, I just primed them black. Painted a coat of Boltgun Metal, then a wash of devlan mud and light a quick drybrush of boltgun and you'll get a good tabletop effect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edonil Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Another quick way to get a similar effect using the paints available right now is to prime black, paint Tin Bitz, drybrush lightly Boltgun Metal, and wash Devlan Mud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoozleWozzle Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Yeah, I primed the stuff that's going to be metallic black and will prime C. Hoffman's body and Ramos white then work up to flesh and clothes. I think I'm doing Ramos's flame unwashed Mithril or some kind of platinum to really stand out from the dingy steampunk metallics as something odd. I think I'm going to use Boltgun Metal with a Delvan Mud or black wash for a lot of the connections, claws, and underlying frame. I ordered Reaper Master Series Tarnished Brass for all plating, armor, etc. I'll probably use a Delvan Mud wash with it, but I'm trying it on plastic card or something first. Any recommendations on something for brown leather? I plan on using it for a lot of clothing and the Watcher's wings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edonil Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 (edited) One really easy thing is Bestial Brown, with Devlan Mud for the wash. If you want to add another layer to it, a mix of Snakebite Leather and Bestial Brown drybrushed before the wash will help add a little depth. Keep in mind, this method is one that will get a tabletop quality color, it won't look amazing. It's quick, it's easy. For something more complicated, I'd recommend somewhere like The Painting Clinic for advice on blending, and there might be an article on painting leather. Edited June 15, 2011 by edonil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ratty Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Another quick way to get a similar effect using the paints available right now is to prime black, paint Tin Bitz, drybrush lightly Boltgun Metal, and wash Devlan Mud. That can end up a bit cold, I've used it in places. If you want a warmer metal you can add a tiny bit of shining gold to the mix in the mid layers to get a similar finish to using Brazen Brass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i_was_like_you Posted November 17, 2011 Report Share Posted November 17, 2011 I take it Testors metallic paints are frowned upon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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