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Koyote's WIP Guild Crew


Koyote

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Here is my Witchling Handler proxy. It is the Sasha DuBois-Time Chaser model made by Reaper Miniatures. Matched up against most Wyrd models, she's a bit short, but her head and limbs are the same scale. Also, like the illustration of the Witchling Handler in Twisted Fates, she has a pair of goggles on the top of her head. Her coat makes her look like a military (Guild) officer. The keys are symbolic of her role as jailor. All that she needed was a greatsword. I clipped the pieces for it from some GW Empire sprues that I had lying about.

WIPwitchlinghandler.jpg

Here's Reaper's photo of the painted model.

50001_p_Haley_1.jpg

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This thread is just full of win. Some very clever and original ideas, masterfully executed. It goes without saying (but I'll say it anyway!) the base work and the terrain pieces are truly inspired, and very much in "feeling" of the Malifaux aesthetic (well, they are to me anyway.)

But I have to say your painting skills just put everything over the top, I really like your style. Your skin tones are excellent, and I'm especially fond of your undead skin color choices. You really have me looking forward to painting my Malifaux models (I'm currently devouring the books and all the background stuff on the web.) Looking forward to seeing more of your work, and thanks for sharing it with us.

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I've had a few PM requests for a greenstuff (GS) pumpkin tutorial, so here it is.

I start by rolling out a GS sphere on a smooth, nonporous surface. Here, I use part of a plastic clamshell container.

I roll the GS in a small puddle of water to keep the GS from sticking to the plastic. Rolling the GS in water also produces a smooth surface. Without the water, the sphere's surface would be covered with my fingerprint impressions.

pumpkin1.jpg

Next I skewer the GS sphere with a thumbtack. This allows me to manipulate the GS sphere without touching it with my fingers. It also creates a hole on the top of the GS sphere for the stem.

If I need to adjust the GS sphere, I use the flat part of a sculpting tool rather than my fingers. Before doing so, I wet the sculpting tool so it doesn't stick to the GS.

Skewering the GS sphere flattens one end of the sphere.

pumpkin2.jpg

I then use a wet sculpting too to round the flat end.

pumpkin3.jpg

Using the blade of a wet sculpting tool I create the longitudinal impressions on the sphere that makes it look like a pumpkin. I begin by making 2 impressions that divide the GS sphere's surface in half. Then I add 2 more impressions, dividing it into quarters. I then divide each quarter, until I have divided the surface of the sphere into 8 areas.

The divisions don't have to be proportionally perfect just as these same divisions on real pumpkins aren't perfect.

pumpkin4.jpg

Next I roll out a small bit of GS as seen in the photo. Again, I do so in a small puddle of water.

pumpkin5.jpg

Next, I carefully pick up the GS. Holding onto each end with my thumbs and index fingers, I twist the GS. This creates a cool, twisty stem.

pumpkin6.jpg

I let my GS sphere and stem dry overnight. The next day, I cut the stem into smaller lengths of stem and discard those pieces that I don't want to use. I then remove the GS sphere from the thumbtack and insert an appropriately sized piece of stem into the hole on the top of the GS sphere. I use a tiny dab of superglue to secure the stem in place.

The stem can be quite fragile, particularly at the point where the stem protrudes from the GS sphere. To strengthen the stem, I drizzle a tiny amount of superglue down the stem. Too much glue on the stem will obliterate the stem's texture and twists, so immediately after drizzling the stem, I remove excess glue by dabbing the glue with the edge of a paper towel.

pumpkin7.jpg

Edited by Koyote
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Can I ask how you do the blueish undead flesh like on Dead Doxy/Lday J

The recipe is quite simple. I start with a black undercoat. I then add a basecoat of Coldstone Grey (Reaper #09173 -this color has a hint of blue in it). Then I add two highlights of Coldstone Grey mixed with Rotting Flesh (each successive highlight includes a larger amount of Rotting Flesh in it). At this point, to smooth my highlights out, I wash the flesh with a very thin wash made from Coldstone Grey and water. I then add one or two more highlights of Coldstone Grey and Rotting Flesh. Voila.

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Overall, I am pleased with what Wyrd did with the Rogue Necromancy model. It's longer, taller, and broader than the puny Sabertooth Cerberus model that the concept was based on. It's one of those models that the official Wyrd photo doesn't do justice. However, being someone who cannot leave well enough alone, I've done a bit of conversion work on my Rogue Necromancy.

First, the Sabertooth head included in the kit is a bit too small -especially when compared to the size of the Razorspine head and horse head. My solution was to replace it with a head from the Sabertooth Cerberus kit. The replacement head is roughly the same scale as the original, but the hair below its cheeks and on its chin is longer, so overall it has more bulk.

Next, I extended the length of the neck of Sabertooth head. This, allowed me to reposition the head more to my liking and further bulk up the Sabertooth head by adding a greenstuff mane.

Finally, I did away with the horse head. It's a brilliantly sculpted piece that I intend to use elsewhere, but it really throws off the model's symmetry. For some, this works just fine as it is symbolic of the chaos that fueled the mad genius of the RN's creator. For me, however, it just doesn't work. I replaced the head with a GW plastic beastman head, which both balances the Sabertooth's head and looks more fearsome than a dead horse.

WIPrn1.jpg

WIPrn2.jpg

Edited by Koyote
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